Carrillo's are 540 grams per rod (535 grams depending on steel versus multiphase bolts.)

 

That would be 5 grams less than the pauters but a bunch more than AP. Then again look at the price.

But even 5 grams factors into 5 grams times six rods or 30 grams of reciprocating weight and you choose the rpm. Even at 3000 rpm's that equates to 90,000 grams (90 kilograms) more of RW or work per minute.

You start racing up the rpm's and where all else is equal the motor with the lighter rod car will definitely be faster. It is nice to be a fan of one manufacturer or another, but doing your homework in advance can pay dividends.

 

I earlier gave some wrong information on the AP rods. They are lighter but not that light. I also do not know the weight of the stock length AP rods.

We are running a stroker crank whose rods are 4 mm longer than the stock rod length of 126 mm.

Our 130 mm Arrow Precision rods weigh:

OVERALL: 525g
ROTATING: 351g
RECIPROCATING: 174g CALCULATED MASSES

If they were stock length they would weigh slightly less than 525 grams.

 

Along with the rods you choose BE VERY CAREFUL which rod bolt they come with.. The rods in MANY CASES are only as good as the hardware fasteners..

Also if a rod is EXTREMELY light compared to some of the other options discuss with the manufacturer what the rod was designed for.. Titanium rods for example are built HP specific in many cases.. Built to hold just over what you plan to make as to get the lightest reciprocating mass.. Good luck!!

Mike

 

Mike,

Both sage points.

It all comes down to determining what you want ahead of time. Once determined a decision can be made as to how necessary it is to obtain what degree of available performance from each part. There are many people who can assemble these motors correctly. There are far fewer who can start modifying/changing parts with the goal in mind of a specific power band and at the same time designing that motor to be as responsive as possible within those power parameters all the while working within any budget constraints.

 

Todd at Evoms did mine and I have had 0 issues with daily driving and many track days.

 

Wow, LOTS of good info here that I didn't anticipate. I'll add those to the list of questions.

Thanks!!!

 

John,

You really know how to ask the tough questions. I had that information at one time, I could find it, however it would take some looking. I know I posted it a long time ago. Given the above my fuzzy memory wants to say 550-555 grams per rod.

 

Buddy,

I believe you have Carrillo in your build. That is what EVO uses to my knowledge. They, like the others discussed are very good rods for big power. Given that, the lighter rod that will handle the power will provide increased dividends in the forum of a faster responding motor.

It's like, both rods will get you to a certain speed or power rating, the lighter rod (given all other things being equal) will get you there a little quicker. I still have to stress, once you look at what you gain by added quickness, then you have to determine if the lighter rod is worth the additional costs .... if any.

This RW thing is not unlike the same issues examined on the design with lighter clutch/flywheel, cranks, pistons, dampeners,etc.

 

great info guys, subscribed....

So no one recommends going with the Ti GT3 rods? I guess they are not designed for the turboed power these engines can make?

 

I would advise against Ti rods i dont want to be doing routine tear downs to make sure they are not coming apart inside my motor.

turbo motors PUNISH their rods, pistons, cranks, and cylinder liners so much more then NA motors will go with Strong steel rods with a bit of weight savings Engineered into them.

all the rods mentioned in this thread, Pauter, Carrillo, Arrow are great choices is one better then a nother sure but it just comes down to budget/ and reciprocrating mass.

i havent seen anyone mention crower or eagle rods, wait this isnt Hondaforums is it.

 

We have tried just about everything.

Here is a Pauter Ti



Here is the Ruf Ti



Here is a Pauter steel next to the GT3 Pankl Ti



Now ......... Why won't the GT3 Pankl Ti or any GT3 not fit in a turbo motor? Hint ...... look at the rod length of the GT3. The GT3 has longer rods and does this for the better rod/piston ratio. The pistons of the GT3 do not need to be as stout as a turbo motor and are in fact shorter. This is why the rods are able to be designed longer. Some may notice the journal diameter of the Pauter (turbo application) on the left is smaller than the Pankl (NA application on the right.) You are correct, however in real life the turbo and the GT3 have the same size journals. The rod on the left is one we used for a special application where we utilized the smaller NASCAR oval bearing in a 996tt motor.

 

i dont even wanna add up what you spent in rods if you had to keep all those sets..

 

Carrillo rods are 35 grams lighter that stock Porsche 996tt rods - Pauter rods are about 1/2 gram lighter than Carrillo rods - you need to use a good cylinder stud to keep things tight - i used the EVO 12mm studs on my motor build and Jags build for beasty motors 800 to 1300 AWD HP - EVO 10mm studs are far better than the other available options - i know i have had to fix motors that had issues with them and it is no fun - there are a lot of different avenues to when building your motor - talking with a builder in depth is the best bet

 

Keep the redline to 7,000 and under...