Scott, you are really making me work. No, my Pauter rods weigh less because I utilize smaller journals due the NASCAR oval bearings. However, the following information is directly from Pauter Machine and can be verified at www.pauter.com under 4330 rods and then Porsche.

993, 996 turbo, 997 turbo .905” 2.283” 5.000” .738” 545g 993-230-580-1270F

The number I highlighted in bold is the weight in grams per rod.

Stock Ti rods for this motor depending on manufacturer normally weigh in between 350 and 400 grams per rod.

 

I just obtained the information on the two available Carrillo rods for the 996tt.

540 / 379 / 161 Total weight in grams, Rotating weight and recip weight

535 / 374 / 161

 

Thanks for doing the research.

 

great info. So basically all the aftermarket rods are stronger and lighter than the stockers.

 

That seems tobe the case. Just comes down to how much lighter you want, and how much you are willing to pay.

 

CJV do you have any weights of aluminum rods such as R&R?? I know they make a steel 996 Rod.. Im sure they can build an aluminum set..



Im going to do my 1st 996 motor in aluminum and see how it goes.. I have had great success revving 10k with them and make 225hp/cyl even in a street car.. They drop big weight in grams and dont lose any strength from what i have seen.. Along with being much easier on the bearings.. any comments??

Mike

 

hey .......hey......my car hasn't been to the track yet.Seriously ,Zuccone"s 4.0 and the other 1100whp cars that Evoms built easily have the potential to run deep in the 9's.I believe Art's car was a 9 sec car also if he had not changed the gearing.

 

Mike.

My experience with aluminum rods is limited to one domestic drag racing motor period. I have no experience with aluminum rods on a street motor or a Porsche motor. You will have to tell me about this when you do it. My first question based on my limited experience with aluminum would be regarding clearance due to the usually bigger dimensions of aluminum rods. If this becomes a none issue and they can handle high powered motors with street applications without stretching then maybe they will work. Constant and prolonged high temps are not a friend of aluminum rods.

One other question ....... the above rod does not appear to be an aluminum rod as aluminum rods usually have rounded edges with no changes in direction. Chrome molly maybe? I could be mistaken.

 

I agree... but my point was/is that the client asked for basic common sense approach to a build... thus is the extra 300rwhp worth it when you look at the extra price tagged onto it? I dont think so... As a matter of fact, I think a car with 800rwhp is fun to drive... those big monsters we all have, well... not so much... lets face it...

I bet any money that a basic rod job with head studs( stock heads) and a 30r type of turbo at 1.7 bar is a lot of fun to drive... and probably half the price of a GT35r monster at 1000rwhp that can only run C16.

this is just my opinion... personal experience that is..
mark

 

mark,

The world is changing again. A 1000 hp monster will only need about 1 bar of boost and you can forget having to use C16.

 

Yes of course... time is the answer... I wish had more of it...

 

really ? is there a P car out there right now that can acheive this ?

 

Aren't aluminum rods rubbish? Most of the guys that run them only drag race their cars. They also have to "inspect" (possible change) them after X-amount of passes (1/4), oil has be the right temp, they stretch/contract. Seems like a major PITA.

 

i would run titanium in a heartbeat over aluminium in any type of endurance application, i've used 100's of sets and as a rule of thumb, 100 passes and they get changed.Even if you could get 500 runs out of them why risk it?? That arrow is a beautiful rod,and light. There is only 1 good reason to run a aluminium rod, and thats because it can take a huge shock load for a set number of cycles in a high horsepower blown alcohol or fuel motor. Remember aluminium work hardens really well, and thats not good. Plus as cjv says they would be quite a bit larger than a steel rod.

As they say there are 2 types of aluminium rods, those that are broke and those that are going to break.

Oh 6 inch lightweight al rod weighs about 440-450 grams. And yes they run grp alum rods in pro-stock but they are changed often, also what are you going to set your side and bearing clearance at? You have to pick a temp for clearance, it would be a challange in a street motor.

 

I Have 1 motor with 20k miles on Aluminum.. It is my personal opinion that the rule of thumb w/ aluminum rods that has carried over from 20 years ago no longer applies with the new forging processes and materials used..

I have 1 car with 250+ dyno pulls between 700hp and 900hp on a 2.0L motor revving 9500rpm.. I have 29 9.5-8.9 sec @ 157-160mph passes on that same motor.. Im waiting to see if the rod breaks before the bearings need change.. I still cannot kill this motor with GRP aluminum rods.. Oil pressure is the same as the day i started it.. I think 800hp 3.6L 6cyl would be nothing for aluminum rods to handle..

Mike