996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

Wevo 997tt mounts installed

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Old Jan 22, 2011 | 02:55 PM
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Wevo 997tt mounts installed

I just installed the wevo yellow997tt engine mounts in my 996tt and I am VERY impressed. Little if any noticable vibration increase inside cabin but the car definately feels more planted. I already have pretty decent suspension and alignment setup so the car handled pretty good before. What I noticed is that the previous feeling of the car when going straight was that it would just barely wander a bit. It was not pulling just felt like it sort of teetered side to side over certain road undulations. Now it feels solid as a rock, no teetering and the initial steering response is immediate and exact. My car is a bit firm for some but it is a serious corner carving scalpel now. Ever so slight increase in idle noise in cabin but what you also get is now my Europipe 2 guiet has a bit more visceral tone at the higher rpms. I am totaly satisfied and can't wait to install my new 997tt trans mount. If you are considering this I can say I have absolutely no regrets. Now I see why the x73 comes with engine mounts. If you have lowered your car or want a tighter feel then you will love these mounts.
 
Old Jan 22, 2011 | 03:16 PM
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Just did mine as well. Can't tell the difference on the street. Truth will be in the pudding next spring at the track.
 
Old Jan 22, 2011 | 03:25 PM
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Landjet,
What is your current suspension and engine mod setup. Just curious as I could tell the difference right away. One thing I wonder about is that I have jacked up my car with a block of wood under the engine for swapping track tires a couple of times and wonder if this added stress on the mounts could have created some give or wear on the stock mounts. My car only has 23000 miles but has been modded for well over half of those miles. I have adj sways front and rear, rear toe links, pss9 set to 3 front 2 rear, corner balanced and a decent aggressive street alignment. I could already feel a lot in my car but it is definately tightend up some. Probably not good for the mounts to lift under the engine.
 
Old Jan 23, 2011 | 07:12 AM
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I've always wondered about whether jacking from the engine accelerates wear of the stock mounts. I jack this way all the time when I need to place jack stands, and in my old 996 I had a failure of one of my mounts (fluid leaked out) while I was jacking from the engine, but it could very well be that those mounts were old and shot already and engine jacking just hastened the failure (they had 70k on them).

Am I right to assume that engine jacking with the wevo units in won't be a problem?
 
Old Jan 24, 2011 | 05:47 PM
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I think the wevo mounts will wear better because of increased stiffness of material but probably not a great idea to jack under the motor. It seems like when jacking under the motor the 2 mount nuts and studs are holding up the whole back end. How else do you guys jack up these cars. One side at a time? This is why if we can afford this kind of car we can also afford a lift in our garage! I need one!
 
Old Jan 24, 2011 | 06:55 PM
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The "two speed jack" method works quite well and gives you the option of placing stands under the front to get the whole car level while on jacks. Cost and space requirements are considerably less than a full lift but will still get the job done for the little stuff.
 
Old Jan 25, 2011 | 11:15 AM
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What I meant was I couldn't feel any difference in vibrations or ride in my car which has a completely upgraded suspension with most of the rubber removed. I hardly drive my car on the street anymore. Tracking is the only place where I feel I can reach for this car's potential, or feel how the car really handles, or determine how a new mod really adds to the experience. The street just can't compare as a test bed.
 
Old Jan 26, 2011 | 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Slider
The "two speed jack" method works quite well and gives you the option of placing stands under the front to get the whole car level while on jacks. Cost and space requirements are considerably less than a full lift but will still get the job done for the little stuff.
Can you describe the "two speed jack" method please?

thanks.....
 
Old Jan 26, 2011 | 04:44 PM
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Using rear jack point (ahead of rear wheel - any side) jack up high enough to place a jack stand under the front jack point on the same side. Now drop rear to just below level with the front which is now resting on the jack stand. Go to the other side of the car with your second speed jack at the rear jack point and jack up until it is high enough to place another jack stand under the front on this side. Now adjust the rear speed jacks to level the car and place another jack stand under each of the rear frames for safety in case the seal blows on one of the speed jacks (never trust those speed jacks).

See diagram - 1 and 3 are speed jacks, the rest are jack stands. Follow the order. I usually place both speed jacks in position before jacking up anything.

 
Old Jan 26, 2011 | 05:20 PM
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Thank you. Thats what I thought based on what I had previously read but I wanted to make sure. One question, is it a problem to fully support the car on the rear frames via the jack stands and then remove the speed jacks? Is the rear frame strong enough to support the car solely by the jack stands without the speed jacks "helping out"?


Originally Posted by Slider
Using rear jack point (ahead of rear wheel - any side) jack up high enough to place a jack stand under the front jack point on the same side. Now drop rear to just below level with the front which is now resting on the jack stand. Go to the other side of the car with your second speed jack at the rear jack point and jack up until it is high enough to place another jack stand under the front on this side. Now adjust the rear speed jacks to level the car and place another jack stand under each of the rear frames for safety in case the seal blows on one of the speed jacks (never trust those speed jacks).

See diagram - 1 and 3 are speed jacks, the rest are jack stands. Follow the order. I usually place both speed jacks in position before jacking up anything.

 
Old Jan 26, 2011 | 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by johnselli
Thank you. Thats what I thought based on what I had previously read but I wanted to make sure. One question, is it a problem to fully support the car on the rear frames via the jack stands and then remove the speed jacks? Is the rear frame strong enough to support the car solely by the jack stands without the speed jacks "helping out"?
I would think "yes" but I can't say for sure... There is nothing in the owner's manual about using the frame for support and once the speed jacks are in place, there is no room to get a jack stand in place at the rear jack point.

Can anyone else who knows for sure chime in here?
 
Old Apr 26, 2011 | 10:35 PM
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Went to a tech session on Saturday and the tech told me I should do the engine mounts since I have most of the goodies. I ordered a set (2) from Wevo and got them today; couldn't wait... so instead of cooking dinner, I was in the garage. They were pretty easy to do and I spent most of the time trying to put the Evo air intake back in. If it wasn't the intake, the job should take less than an hour including lifting all 4 corners.

After I put everything back, there was still light outside so I took her out for a spin. I have been running my pss10s pretty stiff (8/10), so I only noticed a little improvements when taking corners. One thing I noticed the most was the sound; for some reason, I could hear much more engine sounds from all rpm ranges. I have been reading other posts that people said the car feels more "raw" after installing the engine mounts. Now, I totally understand what they meant.

btw, I don't believe the engine was lowered at all.
 

Last edited by MY996TT; Apr 26, 2011 at 10:47 PM.
Old Apr 28, 2011 | 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by MY996TT
Went to a tech session on Saturday and the tech told me I should do the engine mounts since I have most of the goodies. I ordered a set (2) from Wevo and got them today; couldn't wait... so instead of cooking dinner, I was in the garage. They were pretty easy to do and I spent most of the time trying to put the Evo air intake back in. If it wasn't the intake, the job should take less than an hour including lifting all 4 corners.

After I put everything back, there was still light outside so I took her out for a spin. I have been running my pss10s pretty stiff (8/10), so I only noticed a little improvements when taking corners. One thing I noticed the most was the sound; for some reason, I could hear much more engine sounds from all rpm ranges. I have been reading other posts that people said the car feels more "raw" after installing the engine mounts. Now, I totally understand what they meant.

btw, I don't believe the engine was lowered at all.
More Rigid mounts more noises from Vibrations

some say its bad i say its like a symphany!
 
Old Apr 28, 2011 | 09:08 PM
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i'll be putting on my Torque Solutions Motor mounts soon so I'll keep you posted. Though about the solid ones from Rennline but decided against them.
 
Old Apr 28, 2011 | 09:34 PM
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I like the rawness of it but crossing my fingers when my wife gets into the car next time. Maybe I can pull... it the exhaust again.
 


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