I ended up doing my clutch and this write up came in very handy. I have a four post lift which made it a bit difficult to get the shaft in place as one of the ramps was in the way, but I got it done!

 

I love it that people are getting good use out of this DIY.

When I started this job I questioned myself on doing the GT2 Clutch mod at the same time, but had already spent near $3000 on supplies and parts. Decided against. OOOPS. My slave cyl just went out. So GT2 Clutch mod is next on my list. I have read a few write-ups on it, it doesnt look fun at all.

 

Followed this procedure to a T and had good success. It's a big job on your back with jack stands but can be done.

There are a couple things I wanted to add:

- lining up the pivot fork required a helper to jiggle the fork and get the holes to line up. From the passenger side through the access port I had my helper move the pivot fork around slightly to get the holes lined up. Four attempts of taping the pivot fork to the pressure plate wasn't enough to get everything lined up perfectly.

- when reinserting the pivot shaft, put a bolt on the end of your threaded bit to keep the needle bearing snugged up to the shaft

- buy, rent or borrow a digital inspection camera for this job. It was invaluable.

Thanks very much for this thread. It helped immensely. Probably took me 20 hours in total. Clutch feels better in all ways.

 

This is a great write-up! I'm researching the DIY's for the 996's as I'm considering a C4 or C4S as a daily and I want to get an idea of how it is to work on the rear engine.

 

I am just getting started on this job. IAPorscheDoc has a write-up on rennlist that mentions removal of a tranny mount stud:
Talisman013's original post does not mention this. Does anyone know if this stud needs to come out or not?

Also - I will likely do this job over the span of several days. I have a two post lift, but only a "normal" hydraulic jack and tranny jack (i.e. nothing that will reach super high). For people that have done the job - I presume there is no good way to do this without dropping the car down low enough so that the jacks can reach. This means working on your back no matter what, yes?

Also, I presume you don't leave the engine hanging on the engine mount bolts. I'm concerned about having a jack sag overnight. Do you just need to make sure you jam in some 2x4s or similar for additional support?

Tips welcome.

 

I didn't have to remove this stud when I did mine.

I didn't have a lift, but kept the engine supported with a jack and blocks of wood.

Have fun!

 

i used a strap across the trans mount brace and the 2 rear engine mounts for support when the trans was out.
i removed the pass side upper stud with simply 2 of the trans mount nuts tightened together and back it out. it made the install and removal VASTLY easier. it takes 5 minutes and you will thank your self.
i did it with my maxjax lift and low pro trans jack and then raised it up for the clutch and clutch fork install. lower it back for the trans install.


MAKE SURE THE CLUTCH FORK IS PARALLEL TO THE P/P AND EVEN WITH THE WIDTH OF THE P/P. if its not lined up perfect you will never get the rod in and like me will take the trans out a bunch of tiring times. use tape to line it up. also a harbor freight 69$ fiber optic camera was a godsend

 

It is possible to get the tranny out without pulling that stud, but it makes it a heck of a lot easier if you just pull it as you can drop the nose of the tranny down sooner to clear things easier.

 

I will be installing my new clutch next week at local indy shop for $750. No DIY necessary!

 

Thanks to all for the responses. And I'll apologize for not reading more carefully. I thought I had read this thread end-to-end several times, but I realized that the question about the tranny mount stud is mentioned earlier.

I currently have all of the easy stuff off and am preparing to drop the tranny/engine a bit and work on the fork.

Two questions - what length 6mm bolts is everyone using to remove the black cap and pivot shaft? Based on the pick of the "cap bolt", I'm guessing 8 - 12" and presumably the one for the pivot shaft is a bit shorter. Local hardware store to pick these up?

How about he 12-point start bolts - Talisman mentions SnapOn; has anyone found this tool elsewhere?

Thanks, again!

 

80mm long from home depot is about as long as you will find. great tip from tim941nyc is drill a hole in the black cap once removed and put the clamp and cap onto the bolt as 1 unit to prevent it from dropping into the bellhousing. put some tape inside the socket to hold the bolt that secures the black on so it doesnt fall out of the socket.

 

i just did it 1 week ago,i installed protomotive dual clutch,it took me 6hours to do it,easy job.

 

Is everyone getting their 8 and 12mm triple square socket/bit at SnapOn or are there quality alternatives? I managed to get the clutch off with a cheap OEM brand bit from autozone but the bit is starting to fail and I don't want to use it on the flywheel. Would like to by something in the next few days.

Thanks.

 

i just bought a set off ebay and it was working just fine. for the fly wheel bolts i zipped them off with an impact and all went ezpeazy

 

No issues with ebay bit set and impact? Amz has some Sunex brand bits that claim to be "impact" bits. They're on Prime, so I ordered an 8 and a 12. Looks like I can also find some VIM bits at a few places as well as some by Capri.

I just don't want another junk set like what I got from Autozone. I was pretty careful with fully engaging the teeth in the bolt and the bit teeth still deformed / broke on me.