Decent brake upgrade options?

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May 3, 2011 | 11:14 AM
  #16  
I just have the drilled and will go to two-piece slotted once these are done.

Quote: Did you go with drilled or slotted rotors? Since I switched to PFC 01's, great pads - bite hard, my stock drilled rotors have cracked quite a bit, I heard this would happen but wanted to try the pads before I changed to GT3 6 po/350mm. I will probably go with slotted rotors. I use Castrol SRF, I used the blue but brakes got mushy towards the end of the day at Homestead, since I switched no problems. These pads are great but generate a ton of heat.
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May 3, 2011 | 11:24 AM
  #17  
Quote: im just looking for a quick solution then move on to bigger brakes in the future.

Will stock 997 (350mm) rotors work with the 4 pots?
Yes they will but you will need a spacer and a longer bolts to re mount the calipers to the uprights. I think Vivid has or had a kit for that.
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May 3, 2011 | 11:53 AM
  #18  
Quote: I just have the drilled and will go to two-piece slotted once these are done.
I am using 1-piece slotted 350mm rotors with my front 997 GT3 calipers and they work very well.

  

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May 3, 2011 | 12:26 PM
  #19  
do you all recommend the same 6 pot gt3 fronts for someone looking for just GOOD street brakes...I don't track the car, just want it to stop very quickly (racing around town etc...)
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May 3, 2011 | 12:35 PM
  #20  
Ben, I do think that all higher than stock hp 996TTs should upgrade the brakes and GT3 6-pot is an economical solution with very good results.

Quote: do you all recommend the same 6 pot gt3 fronts for someone looking for just GOOD street brakes...I don't track the car, just want it to stop very quickly (racing around town etc...)
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May 3, 2011 | 12:57 PM
  #21  
Tim - what hole is that, on the front lines?

Quote:
Love that color! If you feel that the bite at first is to soft you can open up the hole that feeds the brake fluid to the front caliper.
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May 3, 2011 | 01:18 PM
  #22  
I think he was talking about the brake bleeding spot; covered by a plastic cap and you'll need to loosen it with a wrench.

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May 3, 2011 | 01:28 PM
  #23  
Quote: I think he was talking about the brake bleeding spot; covered by a plastic cap and you'll need to loosen it with a wrench.

No sir. Where the brake line connects to the caliper.
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May 3, 2011 | 01:30 PM
  #24  
Can you take a pic of that hole please?

Did you mean to make that connection hole bigger to get more fluid thru?

Quote: No sir. Where the brake line connects to the caliper.
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May 3, 2011 | 01:32 PM
  #25  
It would be the supply lines on the other side of the caliper. Are you saying to drill out the caliper side to allow more fluid to enter quickly?
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May 3, 2011 | 02:13 PM
  #26  
Tim, you are talking about the entrance hole which is now .125. How much more can we open it?

 

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May 3, 2011 | 02:26 PM
  #27  
Quote: do you all recommend the same 6 pot gt3 fronts for someone looking for just GOOD street brakes...I don't track the car, just want it to stop very quickly (racing around town etc...)
stock brakes are plenty unless you track the car.

Guys, I've been having huge braking issues at the track, this weekend at big willow, I would get the brake pad sensor and brake fluid lights but i was barely doing any braking yet (warm up laps). The brakes felt fine - so i kept going.

When I came in, i checked the pads and fluid, pads looked great all around, and fluid was near the MAX line. Once the car cooled down, the lights went away, but when I got back out and really started pushing and braking - they would come back.

The brakes had good bite and the pedal travel was normal - what gives? Of course, when driving home and since then - no brake lights on my dash...

What I did notice was that I used teh brakes more, i would get the shake in the steering like the rotors were warped. I JUST put new OEM/Zimmerman rotors and cool carbon pads and GT3 brake ducts w/ RBF600 on the car in preparation for this track outing.

back on the street, ZERo shake, fade or anything...just a testament to how amazing these cars are in general.

Anyhow - any suggestions to improve my setup (w/o going GT3 6 pot)?
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May 3, 2011 | 02:42 PM
  #28  
You definitely don't NEED 6pots for the street, and not really even for the track (though they are still definitely an upgrade). Really all the 4pots need on the TT is good fluid, good pads and brake cooling ducts to make a HUGE improvement.

The cost of pads and rotors goes WAY up when you upgrade to 6pots. Though you get longer lasting products, you will still pay more with 6pots.

I like Pagid Yellow/Black combo, yellows last forever for me and the blacks in the back give me the bite the yellows don't. I'd even consider black/black as I love the pagid blacks as well.

I am working on a solution once again for slotted rotors, they are working really well for several people, they have just been a pain to get, I'm trying to alleviate that.
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May 3, 2011 | 02:50 PM
  #29  
Quote: You definitely don't NEED 6pots for the street, and not really even for the track (though they are still definitely an upgrade). Really all the 4pots need on the TT is good fluid, good pads and brake cooling ducts to make a HUGE improvement.

The cost of pads and rotors goes WAY up when you upgrade to 6pots. Though you get longer lasting products, you will still pay more with 6pots.

I like Pagid Yellow/Black combo, yellows last forever for me and the blacks in the back give me the bite the yellows don't. I'd even consider black/black as I love the pagid blacks as well.

I am working on a solution once again for slotted rotors, they are working really well for several people, they have just been a pain to get, I'm trying to alleviate that.

^^^^^^This man speaketh the truth.

There was another stg2-3turbo out there (Eric) silver 996tt with the pagid yellows who had ZERO brake issues...

I think i just answered my OWN question!
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May 3, 2011 | 03:11 PM
  #30  
Cooling is a huge Issue
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