We make them.... we do it at the turbo.... you block one off and pressure test the other....

 

wouldn't it be better at the filter since you can test the inlet tubes also, everything after the MAF?

 

That might be better, but that side is not normally pressurized and may not be made to handle the stress of extra pressure...

I went to Lowes and got all my supplies to block off one turbo and then pressurize the other. Pretty easy and cheap insurance!

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ig-w-pics.html

I used that DIY, but on the one side you block off, I found a closed end rubber hose end so I didn't have to clamp on the extra pvc end!

 

FYI for anyone looking to get a Mityvac, just randomly saw on amazon today while looking at motul brake fluid it's on sale for $29.59

 

Went to the garage today and pressure checked the wastegates. Sure enough, the driver side is leaking...I also checked the actuating pressure to see if they both opened at the same psi. The gage on my compressor lacks definition, but they seemed to open around 15psi. I need to double check these #s with a better gage. I guess I need to replace the wastegates now. But what should I buy? Stock, 1 bar? The engine has a RUF 520 engine kit with K16 based turbos. Any advice would be great. Also, what does a leaky waste gate does to engine performance or reliability for that matter? I have some Durametric logs I can post if this would be helpful. Thanks.

 

good info

 

After I found the driver side wastegate leaking at the seem of the capsule, similar location to the picture posted by Markski, I had a well respected tuner take a look at some Durametric logs, and this "leak" is not affecting the engine whatsoever. That is good news. So at least in my case I will leave that wastegate alone and not replace it. From a visual stand point when the compressed air was applied to the capsule, the rod would retract and slowly close back as the air escaped from the capsule. I welcome any feed back.

 

I would replace it... would not even think twice about it...

 

I did a leak test on my car and it would hold pressure for more than a couple of seconds. After lots of searching I found this...



Would this result in a large loss of power even if I am still seeing 1bar on the gauge?

 

wastegate rod seal? I have the same issue on mine