Ouch!! Hearing about it is one thing but seeing the pics is another. Should make silverware out of the rods!

 

Sure Tony and don't worry you won't be hearing from my lawyer as this is not the primary cause of the engine blow up, that's the N75 line but isn't it possible to reinstall a Turbo boost limiter at say 1.7 bar vs the factory 1.3 bar when this is removed ?

 

with a limiter wouldn't there be some sort off a fuel or fire cut-off?

 

Interesting thread...Very sorry to the OP. What I have learned in my years of modifying cars is that once you decide to modify your car, you really can't fully rely on the factory to protect you 100%. Way back when, I wanted to go with a boost controller on my 996 Turbo as that's what I always did. Tony said if I go that route, I will no longer have the ECU controling my N75 valve, hence no ECU protection. Suffice to say that I never had a boost controller. BUT,m what if I did and I blew my engine? Tony's fault? I dont think so?
I did have my car tuned to 1.4 bar that I worked on myself and one time I DID forget to hook up the EXACT same hose (it fell down behind the intake and couldn't see it...it happens). I went out and immediatey saw 1.5 bar on my gauge and let off and went right home and found the problem and fixed it...perfect. My .02 is that these guys at your shop made a mistake on installation, that's not the problem. They went out to drive the car without paying attention and popped your engine. That's the problem While I feel bad for you, it's not Tony's fault, it wouldn't have been Markski's fault if he tuned it or Todd's fault if he tuned it. Just my .02. I hope it all works out for you just the same. Good Luck.

 

+1, your shop already admitted they didn't hook up the N75 valve. No tune in the world would have stopped what had happened.

 

Now what about preventative maintenance on this N75 line/valve? I am assuming that with these cars being 10 years old now that the rubber/plastic that this N75 line/valve is made of might be getting brittle and could break and split thus resulting in a massive overboost and a blown motor. By the sound of it, the result would be the same as documented here. I always assumed that there is some sort of a fuel cut as a last line of defense when the ecu sees that the boost threshold is exceeded. Is that not something that a capable "tuner" could write into their file to function in the same way as a rev limiter function except with boost??? Also, dont the blow off/diverter valves prevent such a massive overboost from happening by dumping excess boost back into the intake??

 

Not much really to be "preventative" about the N75 other than making sure all the associated boost reference lines are in good condition and properly clamped where it's needed. Aside from replacing the valve on a regular schedule(year, two years, five years, who knows) there's little you can do to the actual valve.

A good portion of the plastic line is nylon or teflon which is pretty resilient but I would certainly look over the rubber portions and the rubber cross fittings(like the four way fitting under the manifold). If you can't flex the plastic line easily I'd replace them. Few hours of work and $150 will certainly save thousands upon thousands of $$$.

Audi's always had that problem of cracking plastic PCV/EVAP and vacuum lines, especially on that damn POS 1.8T setup. Porsche isn't too far off that gene pool.

 

It's good to know we are all basically a cracked line away from a blown motor because I don't suppose anyone has changed these things out. Ouch!

 

I've replaced a few of the rubber lines and the N75 before, but have never found any part of any of the plastic lines bad (yet). You can always run your own reinforced lines / brass fittings down to the gates. I believe Tim(tim 941nyc) told me that he setup his car with separate lines down to the wastegates off his stand alone boost controller. N75 can be worked just the same.

In reality, as long as the lines are good and connected properly, and the valve is in good order you have little to worry about. This whole thing could have been prevented by them just paying attention. The valves are cheap(some odd $40 if I recall). Cheap enough that you could R&R every year at that rate if you're that concerned about failure. takes ~10 minutes to swap the valve out.

Just my thoughts

 

Richard, my understanding is that Porsche "crate engine" sells long blocks (k16 or x50 spec) for 17-20K. These are new (or maybe re-manufactured engines) with new turbos, exhaust manifolds, water pumps, etc.... Most of these engines even come with updated 997 parts as those parts have supersede the 996 parts..

You may be able to some parts from your new engine to recoup some of the money spent on the long block. Is that not available where you are?

I have seen a few people on this board go this route....

 

Sucks about your engine. But a disconnected n75 hose is what removed your boost limiter. Their no other safe and effective ecu intervention that can save a turbo boost runaway that happens when this hose is not connected.

Also keep in mind some shops will blame tuners when the tune isn't the one they happen to sell. For example:

"if it was a (insert tuner name here) tune it would have saved the engine"

But the fact of the matter is 99% of the tuners are using the same techniques of writing tunes and adjusting maps, but the amount of time they put into the development of the tune and support is where the value lies. I would not let your frustration with this cause you to blame somebody that is not to blame. Good lick with your car.

 

If the lines on the wgs are disconnected it still will do run away boost and or n75. So the installers who screwed up should be blamed because at that point the actuators had no control no matter what the absolute pressure map was...

 

OHHHH MY GOD!!!!! Just saw the damage...Sorry for you Richard. Hope you will get a new engine free of charge. Good luck!

 

> I will get a rebuilt one by Sportec who are true professionals, they have about 20 racing Porsches there and 30 Road cars, circa 20 of which have been flown in from Russia. Cost seems to go up everyday getting close to a rather crazy USD 45,000 including all the labor now of which I am funding just 5% of the total www.sportec.ch. To be honest just like TTboost this is a mistake I could have potentially made myself I guess, in that respect I have been lucky and the 3 Inch Y Vivid pipe I have doesn't help in that the N75 pipe is kinda out of sight, Sportec also tell me a 3 inch Ypipe adds nothing performance wise ??

 

I understand your anger and frustration and I absoutely respect you for admitting who's fault it really is, and I hope the responsible parties (mechanic who doesn't pay attention?) makes it right and learns from this. Probably excited about taking a 600rwhp turbo Porsche for a ride and got caught up in the moment and that moment may very well cost them a few bucks.

The VERY first thing I did when I bought my RS6, was open the hood and change the N75, 710 valves and replace every rubber hose I could find. Cheap insurance... Good luck with your new project..