Reading some old threads , i' ve understand that basically the ECU controls the boost even when flashed and that the ECU is ONLY able to increase the boost to reach the the prorammed boost level .
When you upgrade the wastegate actuator for example with a strong spring or 1.0 Bar actuator or just tightening stock actuators , basically you move up your boost mechanically and the ECU can NOT reduce the boost if and when this is necessary for example with cold weather..
So at this point act on wastegate to modify the boost is like to have a "manual" boost controller bypassing ECU's contol on it at least if the boost obtained acting on wastegate is bigger than the boost the ECU is programmed for.
So my question is ...if my flashed by Rs tuning ECU was programmed for 1.0 Bar boost automatically adjusted by the ECU if HOT or COLD weather , what's happen now that tightening my wastegate actuators my car boost at 1.1 - 1.2 now that is winter and COLD ? Does the ECU will increase boost at 1.2 -1.3 in summer when HOT weather ?
Theorically i don't think so, since the boost i fitted by wastegate is already bigger that the ECU's programmed boost , the ECU NOT has reason why search for more boost in HOT weather ...
The other and most important question IS , can the ECU compensate the bigger boost adjusting Fuel and timing although it is programmed for less boost ?
Now my car run very well and pull much harder than before wastegate adjustment, but this not necessary mean that something (Fuel and timing basically) in my engine is going wrong.
I would not like run too lean ...i don't think i risk detonation running on 100 otane gas but if too lean i could have problem or damage in long terms anyway..
I know you may say "ASK YOUR TUNER" , BUT i'm preatty sure his answer shoul be "PULL BACK WATEGATE STOCK"...Now that 've found much more power and torque i don't like this solution very much

 

You need to datalog at least your load, afr and timing. If it doesn't look lean and timing isn't pulled then you should be OK but "check with your tuner".

 

your boost will not adjust to drastic temperature changes.... in summer it will run lets say .9 bar and in winter 1.1...

 

An answer DUDE :
When A/F is lean or at least when it is TOO and DANGEROUS lean, the ECU immediately pull timing back ?
If so theorically since i don't realize power loss (due to pulled timing),i should be ok ,or at least on the safe side ..i'm right ?
Sorry for my unknowing..

 

As long as your timing is not too high you should be fine with 1.2-1.3 bar on pump. Assuming your pump is 93 not 91. You should data log (if you dont want to ask the tuner) to make sure timing maxes out at 16 degrees or less else you could get into knock trouble.

 

one thing is base boost setting by wastegates ..next point is setup boost from ecu...

your mechanical base boost must be under your ecu setup boost, only at this way your ecu is able to set your boost and control your boost at exteme situations

your stock wastegates open at 0,4 bar and if you screw a little it opens at 0,6 bar but you cut the mechanical way to open the door...result is more boost...ecu cant regulate against this half open door

if you have 1 bar wastgates you can adjust around 0,8 bar base boost with 2 turns...ecu cant regulate under this point...

if you ecu is programmed to work in this boost levels everthing should work for you okay...but fuel must be okay for base boost 0,8 bar....

overboosting is more a situation forced from to much base boost or not enough mechanical way to open the wastegate

check your setup boostpoint with actual boost and you see if it works fine for you (log with durametric)

 

So i've no reason to be worry about A/F ratio and lean condition in Summer ,my boost after flash and pre wg adjustment was already 1.0 -1.1 in summer...
BUT in winter...mhm?!?... here in Italy temperature drops in winter and when my car was totally stock boost was 0.8-0.9 in summer but in winter ECU corrected it at only 0.7-0.8.
Looking to this numbers (if as i presume Rs-tuning flash map works like stock map about the way to control the boost) , i presume once flashed the car should boosting 1.0-1.1 (as i could check) in summer , BUT only 0.9-1.0 (as i could NOT check cause i already have adjusted wastegate actuators) in winter.
If so the gap from "winter" boost from flashed with STOCK actuators and flashed with TIGHTENED actuators shoul be only 0.1 bar in summer , but 0.2 bar in winter ...
Considering that cold and more dense air = LEAN A/Fr and cold and dense air has tendency to accelerate combustion , if the ECU as it is flashed is NOT able to add more fuel or retard timing , i should be worryed continue to run with actuars tightened at this boost level ...

 

Winni YOU don't know which is the boost base setup for Rs tuning K24 (525 HP) stage 2 file ? and if it works fine for me running 1.1 - 1.2 now that the temperature is around 0 and 5 degrees ? ...NOT cold as in Germany but cold
When he has flashed the car ,my tuner told me he has slightly modify the RS map to stay on more conservative side and actually my car once flashed only boost 1.0 -spike 1.1....I think that for 525 Hp as RS declare , are needed at least 1.1 -1.2 of boost , so maybe RS file is really programmed for 1.1 -1.2 and my tuner has lowered this ecu setup boost to only 1.0 -1.1 to stay safe.
In your opinion if really tuner has do this, is possible he has also modify standard RS fueling /timing setup or he only was able to lowered boost setup ?

 

And if IT is NOT is there danger for engine damage also using shell 100 ?..i'd like to run more octane,like Germany ARAL 102.. but 100 is the top you can found in Italy

 

Sitting and reading your posts I have only one suggestion.. call your tuner(RS) as they are probably the most qualified to answer your discrete questions... we all tune differently and there is no one right way.. all your going to do is get many unique answers that will confuse you to hell and at the same time get some of use frustrated as your questions to this matter really should be addressed to your tuner and not a board that is not a chip tuner site...
just my honest opinion,
markski

 

Yes Marksky i'll do it ...i see you're in Chicago...is cold also there in this season..
L.A. friends have not this problems

 

yes its freezing..
bottom line.. as long as your car is within .9 to 1.2 bar you have nothing to worry about... enjoy the car... the ecu will do it's job...
The worse thing is when you read misinformation then start buying after market wgs and putting them on yourself... then it's a matter of time when your back online asking " why is my car going to .5 bar after I put on 1 bar wgs".
good luck
Markski

 

THANKS again Marksky

 

I agree with what you are saying but you should still datalog to see the actual values. How do you know you adjusted them just right? You may get boost spikes with tighter wgs. Anybody's guess unless you datalog. Markski gives good advice.

 

Plus,I think even though you tightened those nuts up on the wastegates to build more boost...The ECU/controller will still be able to regulate because its not like you have those heavier 1 bar springs for it to deal with...IMO....When I had my GIAC tune with those stock wastegates being tightened up,it still kept the boost pretty much with in .1bar from one extreme to another in Chicago temps......But these 1 bar springs on my K24/18g's are a different story.....