any idea if porsche will do this under CPO?

 

I've heard they are replacing with the same parts which are glued. They are not pinning or welding... But I don't know if it can be done under CPO....

 

Another deception today. Went to pick-up my part, the water pump housing, which had two fittings leaking. I still got one leaking and it is in a very tight spot....Going back to the welder tomorrow..... Just to encourage me, I got 7 good one ;-)

 

Oh, bad luck on that one J-P. They are not easy weld jobs. Good luck on the second time around.

Jon

 

I'd try a quality radiator stop leak first, perfect for sealing up a minor leak like that. Real pita to reweld that, and my introduce more/different leaks.

PS weld looks poorly done.

 

Only on that part Basic because, I think, of the second attempt. I have to admit the other parts like the oil cooler bracket and the elbows, these welds are nice.... Isn't it a good thing that I did a leak check before installing the engine

 

Thanks Jon. Should get a third attempt next wednesday

 

Finally got a good leak check and started the rebuild process.

To do the leak check I got a Bluepoint SVT275 universal cooling system pressure tester that was connected on the big port right side, The left side , the assembly with thermostat was removed and the blanking plate fabricated. The two lines going forward to the radiator were plugged together and finally the line going to the expansion tank was also plug with a brass punch.

 

Because I have found many parts that are rubbing on each other I decide to safety everything I found loose with ty wraps. Used over 70 ty wraps and now all the coolant lines, fuel lines, electrical wires are safely positioned. The transmission is back on, was easy with the engine removed ;-) I also replaced the plugs, coils, fuel filter and a new oil pressure sender which was sometimes failing. Another good inspection and the engine is going back in his place.

 

Lots of good info

 

Wow, some setup. glad its all good now. JP, did you zip tie all the vacuum lines? and add some super glue to the rubber/plastic joints?

Tim

 

I did not super glued anything but thanks a lot for this advice Tim! This sounds like a very good idea!

 

Today I did the inspection of the engine compartment. Found some rubbing spot on coolant pipe and some on aluminum lines because they were out of the holding devices and touching metal part of the intake or adjacent pipes. Ty-wrapping again was needed + two wrap of rubber tape with silicone in between to protect the coolant pipe from very close aluminum line........ Also found the expansion tank loose due to a broken support

 

Just a small note before I elaborate on this BIG repair. Just completed the installation today and everything is OK so far. No leaks, no code and still a pleasure to drive! I have to admit I got a lot more respect for the people that did or do the job of removing and installing a TT engine. In the past I did an engine removal on a Porsche air cooled engine and it was so easy. The turbo is not exactly that easy ;-) But a pleasant experience.....

 

The car is now back on the road and runs great! There was a couple of delays before installing the engine. The first one was a late found. The bracket for the expansion tank was broken (first pic)??? Was like that since a long time because of a rubbing point in the bottom of the tank. Also I accidentally drop the thermostat housing on the ground and damage it (second pic) ...Both part where below $30.00 but had to wait for them. Also I've found something about the clips that hold the coolant pipes, air ducts etc.. There are six different sizes of those on the car. The numbers are 996-106-802-10 (-11,-12,-15,-16,-17). The difference between the -11 and -12 is minimum but it can make a big difference between holding the pipes or not. I also found out the -11 is smaller than the -10 but the -12 is a lot bigger... See pics....Be sure you've got the proper one for the job and do not mix them between the coolant pipes and the intake pipes....