First time it has happened to me. I checked all the hoses I could see or get my hands on. Had a local tech look too but he couldn't see anything either. Since we were at the track, we couldn't get it on a lift. I know the MAF can also cause this. I did hook up my UMW data logger which has a code reader function, but it showed nothing.

What other causes are there for limp mode other than hoses or MAF? Plugs and coil packs were changed last fall so they should not be a factor.

Thanks for looking.

 

Larry,

That sucks. Hope it happened late on Sunday so you got some track time in.

Lots of suspects, but a leak seems to be most often the cause. Tough to find without any codes. One thing to try is to reset the ecu by disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 15-20 minutes, then reconnecting. Pressure test for boost leaks.

I'd also recommend logging some driving data.

GL,

Jon

 

I forgot to say that I did unhook the battery for 30 mins, no luck. Also my one touch window function has quit working. Have to hold the button to make it go all the way up or down. Don't know how that could be related but the window function and limp mode both on the same day.

Jon, limp mode happened during the last session on Sunday while getting a check-out ride for a promotion to black. Fail, otherwise the car ran strong all weekend.

 

Voltage ? What is your voltage of your vehicle when you have it turned on ? Maybe a bad alternator. Also do you have an aftermarket intake. Those two things I will check first.

 

Your one-touch window function has reset as a result of disconnecting the battery. It should return to normal once you manually raise it all the way up and then press the up button once more.

 

This can also happen with fuel problems...not getting enough usually.

 

If there is one guy I would like to help it is you Larry. You are always helpful with anyone here. But there is so many thing that can go wrong. Boost leak, fuel pressure (mention by wross996TT). Is it possible for you to get a Durametric or PST2 plugged in and see what it found?

 

My money would be on a boost leak. I have every line on my engine zip tied, and I still manage to get them.

Check you inter-cooler hoses, and update to the new gaskets if necessary.

Tom

 

I actually thought that was battery related when I read your post; and then saw f1crazydriver's post... kind of along the same line.

 

Thanks for the feedback guys. I'll be taking it over to my shop so my tech can get it up on the lift and go through it better than I could at the track. Car was running like a scalded cat, then all of a sudden, I couldn't even get around a regular 997, how disappointing is that. My instrutor said that even in limp mode I had more power than his car, but the car felt gutless and I didn't want to hurt it because at that time I hadn't figured out what had happened yet.

Thanks to Bux996TT for the window tip.

 

You will only have limp mode consistently even after you reset it if it is a huge leak. Check the bottom intercoolor piping that goes to the turbo. Also, check voltage, battery etc. IMO i would start with those two options. Major leak or battery/alternator. Also did you get any chance to try the splitter ? I hope you did.

 

Good luck Landjet, this crap always gets sorted.

F1 car lookin good!

 

Bummer Larry. Just had this problem with my RS6. No codes, no CEL and no boost. Pulled my hair out for weeks... Turned out to be a leak AFTER the MAF. Unmetered air will wreak havic on these super smart cars...Good Luck finding it...

 

Just bought a pressure test kit from Marski so it will be put to good use.

 

Bummer Larry. Just had this problem with my RS6. No codes, no CEL and no boost. Pulled my hair out for weeks... Turned out to be a leak AFTER the MAF. Unmetered air will wreak havoc on these super smart cars...Good Luck finding it...