Brake master cylinder question ???? 27mm
#31
How difficult is it to do this modification? I just purchased 997 rear calipers to go with my 380 mm Stoptech 6 piston front calipers because of the front brake bias. I tried the 350 mm 997 rotors with Pagid Blacks and stock 996 turbo rear calipers but am still getting front brake bias that is engaging the antilock system prematurely. If its not too difficult I will do this mode and will need your custom line. Is there a DIY for this modification? Thanks.
#32
How difficult is it to do this modification? I just purchased 997 rear calipers to go with my 380 mm Stoptech 6 piston front calipers because of the front brake bias. I tried the 350 mm 997 rotors with Pagid Blacks and stock 996 turbo rear calipers but am still getting front brake bias that is engaging the antilock system prematurely. If its not too difficult I will do this mode and will need your custom line. Is there a DIY for this modification? Thanks.
Next, remove the big nuts on the brake booster (24mm I think) and the brake master will slide out. Installing the new master is the reverse. Just make sure the brake push rod properly engages the input shaft on the new master as you install it.
The biggest pain in the installation was the fabrication of the 12mm/10mm line. I went through the adapter route which was not really optimal and even had a local brake shop make me a new line with custom flare. The tool they used was the $50 cheapie flaring tool and the line ended up leaking. It was not until I purchased a professional brake flaring tool that I was able to make a professional OEM quality line that was to my satisfaction. Finally, after everything is installed, and prior to filling the reservoir with fluid, I would recommend pressurizing the whole system to check for any leaks. I did this by connecting my Motive bleeder, pressurizing the empty brake fluid reservoir to 25psi, and left it connected overnight to make sure everything held tight. It's a lot better to find out if you have a leak somewhere prior to having a reservoir full of fluid and creating a mess. Hope that helps...
You will find this a great mod because it substantially firms up the brake pedal especially if you increase the size of you brakes.
#34
I was able to find the 997 GT3/997 Turbo brake master cylinder (OEM part number 99735591030 manufactured by TRW) on Ebay for $256.76 with free shipping. I also found the part at Koperformance.com for $265.27 and Importecautoparts.com for $265.08.
I am not affiliated with any of these websites and am posting this information just in case anyone is thinking of doing this modification.
I am not affiliated with any of these websites and am posting this information just in case anyone is thinking of doing this modification.
#36
I was able to find the 997 GT3/997 Turbo brake master cylinder (OEM part number 99735591030 manufactured by TRW) on Ebay for $256.76 with free shipping. I also found the part at Koperformance.com for $265.27 and Importecautoparts.com for $265.08.
I am not affiliated with any of these websites and am posting this information just in case anyone is thinking of doing this modification.
I am not affiliated with any of these websites and am posting this information just in case anyone is thinking of doing this modification.
#39
I looked at bypassing the PSM pump, removing it and going directly from the brake master to the ABS module both of which would be a 12mm line. This can be done but you will end up having the plug one of the plastic brake fluid supply lines that connect the brake fluid reservoir with the PSM pump. I did not want to do that and risk a leak down the road. Another option would be to use the GT2 reservoir but that has a supply line that goes to the ABS module so not ideal either. In the end I just retained the PSM pump as is (it only weighs about a pound or so) with the reservoir plastic lines plugged into it as intended by the factory. My PSM pump, however, is disconnected via a trunk mounted on/off switch that is wired to its power supply cable. This gives me the option to have fully functioning PSM (if I wanted to) by simply flipping the trunk mounted switch to ON. I always keep it OFF however as I have a GUARD LSD on the car. Hope that helps...
#40
LOL.. We our looking at the same pro's, con's and solutions. I am dieing to set up the traction control on my motec but time is not on my side as always. 17 days till the car is in the trailer to Texas..
#41
So after a lot of hair pulling I finally bought a professional brake line flaring tool which made making OEM quality bubble flares very simple and easy. I tried the simple flaring tools available at Autozone and other auto parts places but was not happy with the quality of the flares created by these tools. I ended up making a brake line with a 10mm nut on one end and a 12mm nut on the master cylinder end. I used a tubing bender and the result was a line on par with the quality of the OEM brake line. FYI, as was suggested in a previous post, using a 12mm/AN along with a 10mm/AN fitting adapter and connecting to a braided steel brake line will not work as the 12mm portion of the 12mm/AN adapter is not deep enough to engage and seal the base of the brake master port. I looked at all the options and making a new line is really the only way to go.
Brake line 12mm:10mm by pwdrhound1, on Flickr
12mm brake line by pwdrhound1, on Flickr
12mm 997master brake line by pwdrhound1, on Flickr
Brake line 12mm:10mm by pwdrhound1, on Flickr
12mm brake line by pwdrhound1, on Flickr
12mm 997master brake line by pwdrhound1, on Flickr
Im also in for one set of all required lines for the update if you are still producing these
You can send me an pm with all the datas?
#42
#43
Got this after the install, feels like car brakes better in front .
Didnt have any issues like this before.
I have front Brembo 8 piston and rear 997TT rear brakes.
Attachment 223702
Attachment 223703
Comments please and help.
Didnt have any issues like this before.
I have front Brembo 8 piston and rear 997TT rear brakes.
Attachment 223702
Attachment 223703
Comments please and help.
#45
I have no idea then. The larger master is a proven swap on these cars. The larger master just moves more fluid both front and rear. I'd say something else is at play here. Hope you get it sorted...