Rear wheel, not all wheel, and on a Dynojet if memory serves.

Not all "dyno horsepower" is created equal - they really are just tools for tuning and gauging modification efficacy. That's it. Comparing different cars, with different setups, on different dynos, and different fuel, is interesting but otherwise really kind of pointless.

 

..TRUE...BUT there still is a general difference if you compare a rear wheel dyno number to a all wheel dyno number. There are believable ranges...

 

I am looking to V-box my car this weekend, maybe those numbers will help shed some light on what kind of power my car is actually making. Either way it is what it is haha. I'm looking to record 0-60, 60-130 and 100-150 times. I will post #'s once I have them =)

 

Anyone in the Detroit area with a billet K16 car I'd be happy to put on my Mustang dyno.

 

I wish I was closer. I am curious as to what the car is making now.

 

MMMMM. Oh really!!! We never know what the future holds, do we Markski?


I'm just messing with ya! Gettin pretty stoked about the next little round
of "adjustments" on the car. I'm thinking a 60-130 in 5.5s and the 1/4 in
10.4s @ 138ish

 

I don't see any 60-130 times on the official thread!!!???

My car is K16/16G and I ran a 5.87 60-130 @ 1.5 bar and it runs 6.2s - 6.3s
@ 1.3 bar

The car dynos 535 hp to the rear wheels on a Mustang 1100SE. The 1100SE
is considered by most experts to be the best and most accurate chassis dyno
made. If you guys are pushing a REAL 600 hp on your 16 billets, why haven't
you posted performance figures. Theoretically, your car should have better
numbers than mine.

 

Do u have current time slips for ur 16g setup ?

There are different approaches to getting good 60-130 times and different strategies, hybrids will only take you so far. 5.87 is pretty damn impressive for any hybrids !

 

Well I'm about to travel down the road of more speed !
Got a hold of a less than 3k miles K24/20 turbos with 1bar waste gates, and now a set of proto ICs coming in the mail.
I'm on the fence on long tube headers and bigger injectors.
I know that the 5 bar FPR is a must , but is a 72lb injector enough or should I go higher ?
What about headers ? I'm not planning going with crazy horsepower out put, would like to be in the 600 rwhp arena.
I currently run the EPL 1bar tune with 3" x flo street pipes.
Oh yes, new clutch master clutch and LWFW is in already

 

Headers are not needed even at 600+ HP levels.

 

I was really torn about going from my 18gs to 20gs because I was just going to stay on 93 oct. pump gas only.
After all my research I decided to stick with the 18gs,,at least for now..LOL
You will need more supporting mods then what you listed to make them work,including a extra pump,inlet pipes..Are you catless?,,Forget headers.
Good Luck and keep us posted.. Thanks.

 

Thanks for the info. At least on the exhaust side, the AR design ones have vband clamps and I have both 200cel cats and straight pipe that I can swap out in 30 mins or less.
Will look at the other goodies

 

On that Above dyno sheet with the K16 billet turbos,,
They spool about 250/300 RPM quicker and make more HP/TQ up until 4250RPM then my K24/18gs with my mods..
After 5000RPM the 18gs kick butt all the way up,,kinda how the 16s did it before 400RPM to the 18s...lol..
My dyno sheet,also on a 2 wheel Dyno Jet-88 degree day, is posted in a past thread on my TB swap ,in the late summer..

 

my understanding from epl is to run 72 injectors on a stock 3.8 bar fpr. the 5 bar from what i researched was a cheaper easier way to get more fuel without removing the rails. (which is no easy task! i have some tips when you start).

 

I had an EPL tune+ his 72 injectors+ stock FPR originally with my 18gs set-up..Then I even needed more fuel ,,which he advised me-extra pump,when I put my free flowing Milltek exhaust on..
With 20s and a good exhaust you will need a alot of fuel also...FACT..Also a 5bar is not the way to go on that.