996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

The Mods which are a Waste of Money !

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Old Feb 11, 2013 | 08:05 AM
  #136  
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Originally Posted by TXTurbo996


Well said. I am still on the fence about whether to go with k16 billets or k24/18g's. I think I'd prefer the 18g's but since I don't have k24's to send in, it adds a lot of extra cost.

Unfortunately, my horsepower goals (600 whp) look like they are just beyond the reach of the k16 billet, unless I spend more money to mod everything else just to squeak out a bit more ponies.

Ugh. Will probably end up going the billet route and the money saved by not having to buy k24's can go towards a new clutch.
It's the knock on effect that has me holding back. For me (road course) either the 18G route or 16Billet would be a very nice adder- but like TX said you instantly need a good clutch and all of the (as long as the motor is out) mods. Sounds like the GT2RS ICs or better will also help the cause once you work harder then K16 turbos especially over long pulls (like 20-25min sessions). Wonder if I can hold out another season on stock (flashed) power...
 
Old Feb 11, 2013 | 12:43 PM
  #137  
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Old Feb 11, 2013 | 10:22 PM
  #138  
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Originally Posted by TXTurbo996


Well said. I am still on the fence about whether to go with k16 billets or k24/18g's. I think I'd prefer the 18g's but since I don't have k24's to send in, it adds a lot of extra cost.

Unfortunately, my horsepower goals (600 whp) look like they are just beyond the reach of the k16 billet, unless I spend more money to mod everything else just to squeak out a bit more ponies.

Ugh. Will probably end up going the billet route and the money saved by not having to buy k24's can go towards a new clutch.
The k16s require weight reduction and a ton of peripheral mods to really perform. The 16s also require race fuel and higher boost.

It boils down to the type of driving that you do. If you intend on tracking the
car and it's overall responsiveness you're looking for, street or track, then
go with the 16 billets.

If it's straight line performance and more up top, then go with the 18gs.

The 16s cost a lot of money to get the most out of them. I ran 5s 60-130 but
I had 40 k in my car.
 
Old Feb 12, 2013 | 07:43 AM
  #139  
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Originally Posted by layinback
The k16s require weight reduction and a ton of peripheral mods to really perform. The 16s also require race fuel and higher boost.

It boils down to the type of driving that you do. If you intend on tracking the
car and it's overall responsiveness you're looking for, street or track, then
go with the 16 billets.

If it's straight line performance and more up top, then go with the 18gs.

The 16s cost a lot of money to get the most out of them. I ran 5s 60-130 but
I had 40 k in my car.
I have the K16 billets with all the mods including meth and RWD with LSD conversion. For everyday street driving the car is really fun and is right at 600WHP I agree with everything Layinback says. I do feel the kick you get from the K16 billets when coming on the on ramp at full chat is fantastic a real push you back in you seat moment
 
Old Feb 12, 2013 | 07:54 AM
  #140  
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Originally Posted by layinback
The k16s require weight reduction and a ton of peripheral mods to really perform. The 16s also require race fuel and higher boost.

It boils down to the type of driving that you do. If you intend on tracking the
car and it's overall responsiveness you're looking for, street or track, then
go with the 16 billets.

If it's straight line performance and more up top, then go with the 18gs.

The 16s cost a lot of money to get the most out of them. I ran 5s 60-130 but
I had 40 k in my car.
That's primarily what I want to avoid with this car... I had another car where I went with a smaller sized upgrade turbo... then had to spend a ton of money to wring all the performance I could out of it. That's why the 18g option is appealing to me... I can ultimately make far more horsepower than a 16 setup while spending less. I'll be using pump gas only whichever setup I decide to go with, though may consider converting to E85 in the future since it's locally available.
 
Old Feb 12, 2013 | 07:14 PM
  #141  
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Pump gas = 18g tune,3.5 ic's,Exhaust, headers, turbo inlet piping, K&N and rwd
conversion and your done.

K16 biletts same as above but w/ electronic boost control and shave 250 lb's

Either way consult with Markski.
 
Old Feb 12, 2013 | 07:20 PM
  #142  
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Originally Posted by layinback
Pump gas = 18g tune,3.5 ic's,Exhaust, headers, turbo inlet piping, K&N and rwd
conversion and your done.

K16 biletts same as above but w/ electronic boost control and shave 250 lb's

Either way consult with Markski.
Forget the headers at that level..
Boost controller??
 
Old Feb 12, 2013 | 07:37 PM
  #143  
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Originally Posted by johnspeed
Forget the headers at that level..
Boost controller??

I knew there would be some controversy concerning headers.

I ran aftermarket headers on my record breaking car. Not sure
what, if any role they played. I just like duplicating success.
I would love to see some apples to apples dyno info concerning
headers. Torque delivery is gonna be impacted and there's always
a "tandem" element concerning exhaust that'll be hard to quantify
and Peak horsepower isn't an end all be all.

EBC for a k16 bilett car is a must as are bigger injectors. A 5 bar fpr
is a sledgehammer approach to cut cost. My car without a EBC with
5 bar ran 7.3 60-130 and with 60 lb injector and ebc ran a 5.8

The 16 billet setup is pretty lackluster on 93 pump. The EBC allows
for more control on race fuel especially when used with 60 lb injectors.
If I was going with an 18g setup, I'd do the same thing.
 
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