I want to make sure I don't waste my money on mods that don't get me anywhere or actually move me further from my goal so I figured I'd type out what I'd like my car to be and what I was thinking would get me there. Then I am open to suggestions from those more experienced with the car on what might be better.

The two scenarios that give me the most fun with my car are straight line acceleration and tight low/medium speed curves and hairpins in the hill country. So a big turbo setup is great for the straight line but wouldn't be so great for the tight curves where an NA GT3 would excel. I am going to have to give up the BIG power to have more fun in the twisties. This car will likely never see the track - just street driving. I don't have deep pockets so the mods will likely be completed over the next couple years.

What I have now: EPL tune (max boost 1.1 bar), GT2 clutch conversion/Clutchmasters stage 2 clutch, AP shifter, Eibach sway bars, H&R Springs, Michelin Pilot Super Sports on 305/30 19, 225/40 19.

I figure first I need to reduce the turbo lag:
Exhaust with 100 cell cats
997.2 intercoolers to reduce restriction
K16 billets.

Then to help tailor the suspension to what feels best to me a set of coilovers like PSS10's or KW v3's.

 

You have it all down, you just need a good alignment and that's it.

 

sinKing,

I've been going through a similar exercise and chatting with quite a few of the guys on the forum here about my mod path. Unfortunately for me, I tend to start getting focused on too many areas since there are so many things I'd like to do over time...so it quickly spirals into an episode of 'analysis paralysis'. LOL!

One thing you should consider is the fuel system enhancements you'll need to properly enjoy the K16 billet turbos. You'll want to consider either a 5 BAR FPR or possibly a fuel injector upgrade. Although the 5 BAR is enough for that modification alone, there may be long term advantages to consider with a fuel injector upgrade. Obviously you're going to need a re-tune to accommodate that, but it sounds like you're already working with a top tuner so that shouldn't be an issue.

Best wishes with your project! I hope to be doing similar things to my own car soon too.

 

I believe you have it BUT you will need either a 5bar or injectors with that set-up..
Enjoy..

 

intake piping to increase spool and airflow. BE WARNED! this isnt for the faint of heart of your doing it with the engine in. i have finished mine with speedtech setup and as an example in my garage WITH a lift it took 2 days to get the parts out and a solid day to get them in.
injectors. i again went speedtech/epl 72 lb injectors w/ 3.8 fpr. i had a 5bar and took it out.. when i spoke with john he asked what shop was doing the install. i said, im am, myself. ambitious project was his reply!! i clocked 11 hrs total getting the old out and the new in. pass side was major biatch and dropped the rail mount bolts so many times i just duct taped the magnet to my hand!

speedtech y pipe and tubing, a/p dual snorkel airbox.. and im building the 02turbp996 4.5" i/c. i have the plans if you want them i have less than 1000$ in these and the closest price i found was 3000$ new. not a bad build but time consuming.
lastly turbos. my route will be k24/18g build as i already have the 24's and after dyno runs with a k16 car the spool was less than 500 rpm difference with my oem 24's. build the billets and that diff is gone. but mine will build more power

just a thought!! btw johnspeed has the build im basically following as he has great dependable power and the cost is well within what i consider reasonable for a 10 yr old car. my cost so far has been 3000$ plus 2000$ for the lift. i had 24k, headers, exhaust , clutch and 75mm t/b on the car when i got it

forgot to add ams 1 bar wastegates. i already have the billet d/v

 

Merry Christmas, Steve!

Really nice effort on your part...that's the best way to get to know your car. After this nothing will scare you, you will feel very comfortable working on your car! Congrats!

 

Thanks for the replies.

I forgot to mention injectors as some of you brought up. I was thinking injectors over the 5 bar because I think I read that the injectors are pretty well maxed out on upgraded turbos and I like to have a nice wide margin of error. I'd rather spend a little bit more up front to have a safe build...especially when it comes to an expensive engine like this one.

I was curious about the y pipe and if that is a restriction for stock or close to stock turbos.

And yes, all work will be performed by myself. I should really add a lift to my mods list since it will make working on this car so much easier, moreso than any other car I've owned. Also it looks like dropping the engine with a lift is super simple.

 

i come from american muscle, harleys and amg mercedes were i could pull the motor with the hood left on. NOTHING on this engine is easy to work on. BUT if your patient and have some decent tools it can be done. great support from the vendors and the many members i have constantly emailed and bothered have given me the tips and advice needed to do what im doing.
airflow first. get the most air flowing i can without going mafless. then fuel. safety is injectors and my research also shows a possible strain on the fuel system with 5 bar fpr. it is easier to do 5 bar then injectors and i think thats why many go that route. then tune. once i dyno the car i will send the turbos out. need to recoup the car bank money and let my arms and back heal for a while!
btw i bought a maxjax lift by danmar. its movable and raises the car 4 ft off the ground. great for the porsche and my 8 ft ceiling garage. when im done with the car i can move the posts to a corner and use my garage as before

 

The MaxJax is exactly what I was thinking of given a two post would turn my two car garage into a one car garage.

 

the only 2 issues i had with the lift was the cheap quick disconnect fittings that leaked and the chinzy cart the motor and pump are attached to. i spent 200$ for some decent fittings, no more leaks. tossed the cart and mounted the pump assembly and some 3/4" plywood and put it on the wall. problems solved

 

Upgraded wastegates and diverter valves would be good preventative items to add as well.

A couple of other ideas that would be helpful and make a nice difference but aren't too expensive:
Upgraded motor mounts
Upgraded tranny mount
High flow air filter (like a BMC)

And throw some stainless brake lines and DOT4 fluid in there next time you need a brake fluid change to improve your braking. Again, a cheap and easy change, especially when you're already doing a brake fluid change. Some upgraded pads would be great too, at least on the front.

Other than that, you've got a couple of very good suspension mods and you're obviously focused on power and getting that to the ground well.

 

I figure at some point I will order some Audi 710n DV's. They aren't too expensive so I'll probably just get them when I am bored and need something to do.

You actually reminded me that I do already have solid motor mounts installed. For some reason when the PO got some work done on the transmission right before I bought it he swapped the OE mount back in but I do have a good solid transmission mount in the garage.

No point in making power when you can't put it down. Setting up the chassis is very important in my eyes for the total car package. Actually, I think it was your post that sold me on the Eibach sway bars.

 

theres some decent d/v for sale on the for sale forum

 

Glad to help! I hope you've noticed how much of a difference they make. How did you end up setting them up? Soft front/medium rear?

My rear struts have started clunking so it's time to change up more of my suspension. Still undecided on what to do. Can't go with just springs like you did since I track the car a good bit and my struts need replacement too.

 

I have only tried two settings so far. F:M; R:M and F:M, R:Stiff. Next time I have a reason to get under the front I might try soft in the front but until then I am enjoying what an improvement Med/med is over stock.

I believe my rear shocks are on their way out as well. They aren't bad but they are feeling a little soft and at 67k miles it makes sense. I am going to see about getting them rebuilt for $75/ea so that I can take my time and wait for a good deal for coilovers to pop up on here.