OD of Forge Hoses
#1
OD of Forge Hoses
Does anyone know the outside diameter of Forge Silicone boost hoses?
I want to order some spring loaded t-bolt clamps to secure the couplings and the hoses are upstate and I am downstate.
Thanks
I want to order some spring loaded t-bolt clamps to secure the couplings and the hoses are upstate and I am downstate.
Thanks
#2
Answering my own question
FYI, for others who will eventually need this info, the OD of the Forge hoses at the IC coupling and Y-pip are 71MM or 2.8" The hose at the turbo charger outlet is 55mm or 2 1/8"
I ordered spring loaded t-bolt clamps from here
http://www.mandrelbendingsolutions.c...bolt%2C/Detail
using these clamps with the extended forge couplers on the lower end of the upper hoses where they go through the sheet metal should make life a bit easier.
Update: The clamps you want are the 67/75mm clamps (six of them) and two 55mm clamps. Note that they call them 2.5" (67/75) and 2.0" (54 min) I guess because they are using inside diameters of the hoses as their reference point.
I ordered spring loaded t-bolt clamps from here
http://www.mandrelbendingsolutions.c...bolt%2C/Detail
using these clamps with the extended forge couplers on the lower end of the upper hoses where they go through the sheet metal should make life a bit easier.
Update: The clamps you want are the 67/75mm clamps (six of them) and two 55mm clamps. Note that they call them 2.5" (67/75) and 2.0" (54 min) I guess because they are using inside diameters of the hoses as their reference point.
Last edited by joe731; 01-21-2013 at 01:47 PM.
#3
Forge and 997.2 GT2RS Intercoolers
I might as well keep this all together. The forge hose couplings do not fit the 997.2 GT2RS Intercoolers. They do fit the X50 Intercoolers which I am replacing, and the stock hoses fit the 997.2 GT2RS Intercoolers.
All is not lost however. The problem is that the 997.2 GT2RS ICs have a slightly thicker inner "centering ring" at the output (y-pipe) end than the X50 ICs and the Forge coupling has a slightly thicker wall, so the thick wall doesn't allow the coupling to seat all the way in. It's really less than 1mm too thick, so I used a Dremel tool with a 60 grit sanding wheel, to take just enough off the inside diameter of the Forge coupling to make wall thin enough to hug the centering ring on the IC. I did this for the 2 long couplings (you do not need to do this to the 4 couplings that go into the y-pipe at the engine nor from the ones on the inlet side of the IC as it does not have centering rings. Note: I actually did the two at the IC inlet side because I didn't notice that they didn't have centering rings (didn't hurt anything, but was a waste of time).
This is really pretty easy to do, so don't shy away. I went through eight 60 grit wheels and finished them off with four 120 grit wheels. I took my time, so all in it was about 45 minutes of work. I just wrapped the bottom of the coupling in a rag and loosely held it in a vise while I had the dremmel do laps around the inside edge of the coupling. I did stop and rotate the coupling a few times to ensure that my motions didn't create an oval. I also think it helps to soften the inner edge just enough to make mating with the centering ring all that much easier. In the end, I took off enough material so that I could fully seat the coupling and rotate it a little when it was fully seated (without the o ring on it).
Here are a few pictures where you can see the stock hose coupling and the Forge coupling before and after.
All is not lost however. The problem is that the 997.2 GT2RS ICs have a slightly thicker inner "centering ring" at the output (y-pipe) end than the X50 ICs and the Forge coupling has a slightly thicker wall, so the thick wall doesn't allow the coupling to seat all the way in. It's really less than 1mm too thick, so I used a Dremel tool with a 60 grit sanding wheel, to take just enough off the inside diameter of the Forge coupling to make wall thin enough to hug the centering ring on the IC. I did this for the 2 long couplings (you do not need to do this to the 4 couplings that go into the y-pipe at the engine nor from the ones on the inlet side of the IC as it does not have centering rings. Note: I actually did the two at the IC inlet side because I didn't notice that they didn't have centering rings (didn't hurt anything, but was a waste of time).
This is really pretty easy to do, so don't shy away. I went through eight 60 grit wheels and finished them off with four 120 grit wheels. I took my time, so all in it was about 45 minutes of work. I just wrapped the bottom of the coupling in a rag and loosely held it in a vise while I had the dremmel do laps around the inside edge of the coupling. I did stop and rotate the coupling a few times to ensure that my motions didn't create an oval. I also think it helps to soften the inner edge just enough to make mating with the centering ring all that much easier. In the end, I took off enough material so that I could fully seat the coupling and rotate it a little when it was fully seated (without the o ring on it).
Here are a few pictures where you can see the stock hose coupling and the Forge coupling before and after.
Last edited by joe731; 01-21-2013 at 01:46 PM.
#4
This is a great help, very informative, thanks.
So are the first two pictures comparing the Forge intercooler Y-pipe end to the standard Y-pipe end fitting?? The difference being within 1mm??
Did the Forge hoses click in then??
Thanks again
So are the first two pictures comparing the Forge intercooler Y-pipe end to the standard Y-pipe end fitting?? The difference being within 1mm??
Did the Forge hoses click in then??
Thanks again
#5
.
Yes, and just to be super clear, it's the inside diameter that needs to be widened by less than 1MM to fit over the centering ring on the output side of the 997.2GT12RS ICs.
Also, I did trim about 3/4" off the passenger side top hose with a utility knife to make it fit better. I could have used it as shipped, but by removing about 3/4" from the Y-pipe end, it fit with less of a bend in the hose. Other than that I am very happy with the Forge hoses. They seem like very good quality and they "click-in" better and with more confidence than the stock hoses.
Also, I did trim about 3/4" off the passenger side top hose with a utility knife to make it fit better. I could have used it as shipped, but by removing about 3/4" from the Y-pipe end, it fit with less of a bend in the hose. Other than that I am very happy with the Forge hoses. They seem like very good quality and they "click-in" better and with more confidence than the stock hoses.
#6
For those that don't want to get their hands dirty, another options is to take the forge end fittings to any machine shop and tell them to machine 1mm off the inside of the fitting. That'll cost about $40 or so..
#7
This is great, I will order the hoses and take them to somebody in industry.
So just short of 1mm should be perfect
Thanks
So just short of 1mm should be perfect
Thanks
Last edited by Remote; 01-24-2013 at 12:58 PM.
Trending Topics
#8
Thread Revival again.
I'm a bit confused I still haven't fitted the forge hoses as I've had another project I'm working on, but I'm taking the Turbo to the UK on Thursday for a full Geometry so the hoses are next on the list to go in.
Do I just thin out the metal couplings of the forge hoses that connect to the 997.2 intercoolers from the Y-pipe end, my understanding of this is the two pipes that connect to the Y-pipe at one end (no thinning out needed) have another end which connect to the intercooler (these need thinning out by 1mm)
The other two pipes which sit under the car and connect to the intercooler at the other end and something else (as you can see my mechanical knowledge is similar to a sheep) don't need any thinning??
I just wanna make sure I know what I'm asking for, so in basic terms am I right or wrong??
Thanks again
I'm a bit confused I still haven't fitted the forge hoses as I've had another project I'm working on, but I'm taking the Turbo to the UK on Thursday for a full Geometry so the hoses are next on the list to go in.
Do I just thin out the metal couplings of the forge hoses that connect to the 997.2 intercoolers from the Y-pipe end, my understanding of this is the two pipes that connect to the Y-pipe at one end (no thinning out needed) have another end which connect to the intercooler (these need thinning out by 1mm)
The other two pipes which sit under the car and connect to the intercooler at the other end and something else (as you can see my mechanical knowledge is similar to a sheep) don't need any thinning??
I just wanna make sure I know what I'm asking for, so in basic terms am I right or wrong??
Thanks again
#9
thinning
you have it correct.
There are four hoses, each with two ends, so that's eight connections in total. There are two upper hoses (left and right) and two lower hoses (left and right).
The only couplings that need thinning are the intercooler end of the upper hoses - these connect the intercoolers to the Y pipes, and it is the intercooler end that needs thinning. Everything else fits fine.
There are four hoses, each with two ends, so that's eight connections in total. There are two upper hoses (left and right) and two lower hoses (left and right).
The only couplings that need thinning are the intercooler end of the upper hoses - these connect the intercoolers to the Y pipes, and it is the intercooler end that needs thinning. Everything else fits fine.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ModBargains
Bentley Vendor Classifieds
1
10-13-2015 03:42 PM
ModBargains
Lotus Vendor Classifieds
1
10-13-2015 03:42 PM
ModBargains
McLaren Vendor Classifieds
1
10-13-2015 03:41 PM
ModBargains
Other British Vendor Classifieds
1
10-13-2015 03:40 PM