GT2 Master cylinder failures
GT2 Master cylinder failures
I have had 3 GT2 master cylinders fail in 1500 miles since installing a EVOMS GT2 conversion. The shop I use a seen several other units fail in short order in the last year. I am wondering if there is a bad batch out there ? and also if there might be another choice for parts that would be better than the failing OEM solution.
I did a gt2 slave install about a year and a half ago. After only 500 miles or so the master got real squeaky and notchy. The notchiness made it hard to accurately engage the clutch. Based on what I read and after I talked with a few mechanic buddies it sounded like the master was on its way out, so I just went ahead and replaced it. It's been perfect ever since.
And before anyone asks, yes I used brake fluid and yes I flushed the heck out of the system so it definitely wasn't the pentosin that kill the master.
And before anyone asks, yes I used brake fluid and yes I flushed the heck out of the system so it definitely wasn't the pentosin that kill the master.
I did a gt2 slave install about a year and a half ago. After only 500 miles or so the master got real squeaky and notchy. The notchiness made it hard to accurately engage the clutch. Based on what I read and after I talked with a few mechanic buddies it sounded like the master was on its way out, so I just went ahead and replaced it. It's been perfect ever since.
And before anyone asks, yes I used brake fluid and yes I flushed the heck out of the system so it definitely wasn't the pentosin that kill the master.
And before anyone asks, yes I used brake fluid and yes I flushed the heck out of the system so it definitely wasn't the pentosin that kill the master.
I doubt it. There shouldn't be any more pressure on the parts than a gt2 puts on them. The only part that may see different loading because of its mounting is the slave. I think it was probably just some bad qc on the seals. Either it was a bad batch or we were just the lucky ones that got the 1% of bad masters and the Internet has connected us haha.
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One thing to think about...do not bleed clutch traditionally (pressurizing it by foot), it'll break the master cylinder. Use only power bleeder and WSM's instructions.
Master cylider's construction is quite weak (plastic shaft and thin metal tube around it, as piston).
Squeaking and notchyness sounds like that the tube acting as the piston has been expanded sightly because the pedal's been pressed by a foot when beleeding it. When the piston is not properly seated (= in it's normal movement area) in the cylinder excessive force will expand it breaking the assy.
I had to change one before realizing how it must be done...my wife was pressing the pedal and had enough force to break it...
Master cylider's construction is quite weak (plastic shaft and thin metal tube around it, as piston).
Squeaking and notchyness sounds like that the tube acting as the piston has been expanded sightly because the pedal's been pressed by a foot when beleeding it. When the piston is not properly seated (= in it's normal movement area) in the cylinder excessive force will expand it breaking the assy.
I had to change one before realizing how it must be done...my wife was pressing the pedal and had enough force to break it...
Ditto. I would like to lighten the pedal a bit though. It is hard to depress after driving a while.
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