So I have decided to start with upgrading the handling first and then move onto power adders and then engine build.

Here is a short list that I am planning on ordering and wanted to get some feedback from others who have been down this path already.

This will be a street car and not a track vehicle thus why I have not gone crazy with some of the choices.

Any feedback appreciated

Wheels (Champion 19" forged) also looking at (Forgestar deep concave style)
Brakes (Brembo)
Coilovers (PSS10)
Sway bars (GT3 rear) But also looking at (H&R front and rear)
Strut bars (Rennline Front/Rear Strut Tower Brace) or (Evoms carbon strut braces)
Rear droplinks (Tarett) or (RSS adjustable drop links)
Control arms (GT3)
Dog bones (Torque Solution) or (RSS)
Toe links (Torque Solution) or (RSS)
Engine mounts (RSS Tarmac Series Performance) or (Rennline Motorsport solid engine mounts)
Gearbox mounts (Torque SolutionUrethane Filled Transmission Mount) Already purchased

 

Get the gt3 sway bars very adjustable .

 

Don't waste your money on the upper dog ones. Totally unnecessary. Even the 996 cup cars used the stock Porsche units. Get adjustable toe links. The semisolid gearbox mounts will add a ton of noise to the car. They don't sell the "filled" mounts anymore.

 

Paul is that you? I feel like I've seen this exact list before?

 

Yep it's me and the list has been updated from the one on the M5 forum after speaking with George.
I feel it is important to get a general understanding from those that do not build their car for full track use only.

I think this is the best place to ask for feedback

 

From your list.

Wheels (Champion 19" forged) also looking at (Forgestar deep concave style)- I understand 19's look nicer.
Brakes (Brembo) - not needed.. 6 pot fronts and many options on 350mm rotors up front... and oem rear 350.
Coilovers (PSS10)- okay for street ride.
Sway bars (GT3 rear) But also looking at (H&R front and rear)... no need for a front swaybar imo, gt3/2 rear is good option.
Strut bars (Rennline Front/Rear Strut Tower Brace) or (Evoms carbon strut braces) . no strutbar needed...
Rear droplinks (Tarett) or (RSS adjustable drop links)..good choice with tarett.
Control arms (GT3) - front or rear ? Front really only needed..
Dog bones (Torque Solution) or (RSS)- dosent make a difference which brand. They will make a difference, this is where i disagree with john.
Toe links (Torque Solution) or (RSS). -- yes a must
Engine mounts (RSS Tarmac Series Performance) or (Rennline Motorsport solid engine mounts)-- the rennline solid motor mounts are great, the hardware provided, not so great. that said, it makes the car feel great.
Gearbox mounts (Torque SolutionUrethane Filled Transmission Mount) Already purchased


tacked onto your list :
-Get some MSS tires.

you should have a very nice street setup with that.

 

Thanks very much.
I think I have a good understanding now of the good and the bad companies to go with after 2 weeks of reviewing many threads

 

If you want something on the more track oriented side, i would do solid mounting hats for the suspension. It gives the car a much more directional feel.

.if you assistance PM me, ill see what i can help with .

 

+1, on what F1 suggests.

Disagree with the rear strut bar in my case. I had a creaking noise everytime driving at angle going up a driveway or similar situtation around the rear window area. This was the only fix that worked at that time. Now the rollbar takes care of that issue.

 

My car has the RUF front strut bar which is very similar to the rennline bar. After a recent alignment they forgot to fully tighten the bar and I had a persistent squeak coming from the trunk when going over irregular terrain. I finally tracked it down to the slightly loose bar which tells me that there is definitely chassis flex between the strut towers. Once I put a bit of preload on the bar and tightened it up everything was tight as a drum. I am a fan of the front strut bar and firmly believe it does make the front more solid, especially if you track, have monoballs, and use slicks. I haven't used the rear strut bar as I have a roll bar installed but I would instal it also if given the chance.. Just my $0.02...

 

You and Eric say the strut brace work hmm.... my alignment guy who works on a buncha Gt cars says it makes no difference but both of you say yes... which braces are the ones to get that fit ?

 

I have decided to get front and rear strut bars, I see no harm in getting them.
Thanks for all the info guys.

 

Enrique,
I certainly don't consider myself to be a guru on these cars but I just report on my experiences. From my experience and observation, I do believe the front strut bar does make a difference especially since you track and run hard. RUF is pretty fanatical about stiffening these cars and they generally don't sell stuff that doesn't work. This is the one I have, found on page 5 of the catalogue:

http://www.ruf-automobile.de/uploads...sche%20996.pdf

If you look at the two stock stiffening bars that attach to the shock tower on these cars, you will see that they do not actually form a "bridge" between the shock towers. A proper strut tower bar will do that. I believe the Rennline bar is pretty much a carbon copy of the RUF bar (or vice versa) and is cheap at around $240 or so. I would stick with the aluminum one instead of the carbon ones like Evoms sells. This is the Rennline one:

http://www.rennline.com/Strut-Braces/products/238/

Incidentally I am currently working with a local Cup racer that also has his own shop here in the area. This guy has been racing for 25 years and actively still races his Cup car around the country. He recently raced at COTA. I have ridden with him in both his Cup car and a stock 997GT3 and it was an absolutely eye watering experience. I thought I was good running at the top of the pack in the black run groups but boy, was I brought back down to earth after riding shot gun with him. I have never experienced anyone with so much car control and the ability to drive the car at the absolute edge just short of loosing grip and control. The intensity level for a full 25 minute session was amazing. Anyway, he's ridden with me and commented that my rear end of my car feels a bit nervous in high speed sweepers. He looked over my car and recommended the following changes to settle the rear end as my toe is evidently changing under load:

1. Solid caster pucks and monoballs in the rear LCAs
2. Solid rear subframe bushings instead of the rubber ones
3. Try to fit a 305/35/18 rear tire instead of a 315/30/18 (the 305/35 is almost an 1" taller (26.3") than the front and and has a much higher loading than the 315/30 and is a bit more progressive. This is basically a 997 GT3 set up. Obviously you must be RWD without PSM to do this. My car is RWD with ABS only. I think he has a point here as all the 997GT cars and all the Cup cars run a taller rear tire.

I currently have JRZ coils with monoball upper mounts front and rear, and in the front I have the GT3 LCAs. In the rear I have the PNMA toe arms. I asked about doing the dog bones and he told me not to bother since the 996 Cup cars use the same design as the stock TT units. He said 90% of the load in the rear is concentrated on the LCA bushings and not the dogbones. The dog bones are generally heavily marketed since they are a huge money maker for most shops that sell them but are really not necessary, definitely not for a street car. Just what I've been told by someone who actively races and works on these cars. Based on his observations, he's going to be doing a new alignment on my car this coming week and then I'll be testing on the track this coming Friday.

 

forgive the stupid question.. but don't the dog bones help eliminate the sagging for lowered cars and a more even wear pattern on the rears? it seems i get much longer life from rears now with them, than i did without, on my previous car

 

No stupid questions here... . As a point of reference, when I bought my car a few years back it had aftermarket dog bones. They were kind of noisy as they made a bit of a clicking noise. I swapped them to the OEM units and besides the lack of noise could tell absolutely zero difference, on of off track. So I don't know. This seems to back up what I've been told. Your mileage may vary obviously.