so what your saying is that everyone whos ever ran the evoms intake has had to a) replace and engine becuase of the inferior design, and then b) had to replace the intake with another aftermarket unit or stock box? i understand not everyone will like every product on the market, but if the evoms had a 100% failure rate, i doubt they would still sell it... i understand the maf issue, and we will replace accordingly if it causes those issues.... but your never going to sell me on the fact that its a forgone conclusion that the cars going to hydro lock because of the intake.... and the cars seen rain maybe once or twice in its lifetime... thats not really an issue here

 

Well considering i have 2 turbo porsches right now ya i would say i know how it works. Go ahead and try it in the rain and see what happens. Just because they have something on the market doesnt mean it works. Your asking us here what to do for more horsepower and your going backwards with everything. You were just like me and after 30k i learned my lesson its been talked about multiple times about the EVOM intake with bad reviews.

If you cant afford to do it right dont bother because you will soon have to start replacing old parts because of age. 100.00 an hour plus parts.


So your telling me when u get water in an intake it will not hydro lock? Lol funniest **** ive heard all day.

 

There's a lot of heresay and mis-information floating around in this thread about our intake, so time to clear that up.

First off, our intake is very safe to use as far as water ingestion, using a similar design and fresh air inlet location as the stock airbox if that is any benchmark. There should be two holes in the bottom of the airbox for water drainage that work quite effectively. In my previous life working at a shop in MN, I kept an eye on many 996TTs with this intake that had been started after sitting outside all day in torrential downpours, driven on the street or on the track in torrential downpours, had different wings on them, had 6"+ snow sitting on them, and have never seen a significant amount of water pooling in the airbox that would ever cause a concern.

Secondly is the MAF concern. Our intake uses a proprietary venturi and oil-free air filter. The goals were to allow a very high level of airflow while maintaining very consistent MAF readings. The venturi allows this, as it lets us go from a large filter opening to the OEM MAF housing diameter in a short distance while maintaining laminar airflow. Laminar air flow = consistent, accurate MAF readings. The consequence is the air speeds are elevated, which kills Bosch MAFs when running at tuned power levels.

The solution to this was to develop the Hitachi MAF conversion, which includes the sensor, a new MAF housing, and new software designed to read the sensor properly. The Hitachi MAF sensor is much, much more reliable at higher power levels than the Bosch is. We utilize our standard V-Flow Hitachi intake up to 900hp before going MAF-less, if that's any indication of it's power and metering capabilities.

Regardless of MAF sensor, the intake should use our oil-free Synthamax air filter. It's reuseable similar to a K&N, but does not use oil. Despite being labelled 'DO NOT OIL' on the end, I have seen people oil the filter which can cause issues right away. If this happens, the filter needs to be replaced. We also offer an intake sock that goes over the filter to help in very dirty environments.

The intake does provide worthwhile power gains, about 15-20ft-lb and 20hp throughout the midrange on a Stage 1 or 2 car when paired with our software as seen here:

Stock vs. EVOMSit Software, stock airbox


Stock vs. EVOMSit Software, EVOMS V-Flow w/ Hitachi Conversion


Our intake does not suck in hot air or water. It is not an under-sized cone filter clamped onto a tube giving inaccurate MAF readings. It does not make less power than stock. We only sell these because they make cars go faster and they're a reliable product. We specifically DO NOT recommend aftermarket intakes on the 997TT and 997 GT3 models because we haven't developed or seen another aftermarket setup that works as well as stock, even up to huge power levels, if that's any indication of our integrity on this subject.

 

thanks for clearing that up..... pretty much what i was thinking in the first place, were looking forward to getting the intake installed

 

Agreed. 3 years with the Evoms intake and I drive my car in everything. Never had a blown maf or any issues with water or rain.

 

Doesn't AMS also claim 800hp from 16 billets? Yeah I'd listen to them! Ha!

 

How will an aftermarket intake box do anything for you when you still have the bottleneck of the small cross section of the stock intake manifold connected to the stock restrictive convoluted turbo intake piping? My car, for example, utilizes the stock airbox coupled with a larger intake manifold (past the MAF replacing the area where the fuel filter is normally located) which attaches to large dual walled turbo intake piping. Airflow must be pretty good with this set up as I see 1.3bar at 3500rpm on k24 hybrids and the same OEM MAF has been on since 2006. I just don't see what a large intake box will add when your turbos are sucking air through a straw. After all, the stock air box opening is larger than the MAF tube cross section so the airbox is not the bottleneck. I'm certainly no engineer, just asking....

 

The airbox itself is not really where the power comes from--its primary purpose is to provide a sufficiently large channel from the fresh air inlet on the decklid to the air filter, and keep hot engine bay air away from the air filter. The airbox seals against the rear of the engine bay and the decklid, and is made of plastic which has low thermal conductivity to achieve this.

The filter and venturi are where the improvements are made compared to stock. The net effect of the two is that they provide less restriction at a given air flow than the stock filter and inlet do.

At the Stage 1/2 levels, the stock airbox and filter are not an absolute choke point (you can get more air through them if you work hard enough), but they are one of the largest restrictions that the engine has to work to overcome in order to consume air. Envision sucking air through a foot long straw. It's possible, but difficult and you have to work pretty hard to fill your lungs in a short period of time. Now imagine doubling the diameter of the last 3" of the straw. It is much easier to draw air through that 3" of straw than it was before, and you don't have to suck as hard to take a full breath in the same period of time as before. If you want to try it for yourself, just cut off the 3" to see the same effect--it just doesn't make as good of an analogy.

The same principle of additive (or series) restrictions applies to your engine. Reducing the number and degree of restrictions reduces pumping losses, which is the amount of power used up in getting air into and out of the engine instead of being put to the ground. That being said, at some point, you are going to run into a choke point on a component where no matter how hard you try, you cannot get any more air mass through the system...hence why 800hp K16 Billets are so interesting.

You can run your setup with the stock intake, but you would make more power at the same boost level if you replaced it with a less restrictive one--along the same lines as what you experienced replacing the turbo inlets.

When we recommend an upgrade path for customers, we do it to maximize bang-for-the-buck. Our Hitachi intake is $1100, but it is a simple install and can be done by almost anyone in under an hour, and adds 15hp to a Stage 1/2 car. Turbo inlet ducts add about the same and we sell them for $895, but you have to drop the motor to install them which adds a lot of cost and complexity to that upgrade. We try to maximize the power people can get with their existing hardware. For reasons like this, we run the stock turbo inlet ducts and intercoolers up to our 660hp kit. Replacing them with upgraded pieces produces 40hp more and the car drives better, but the extra power they deliver also requires a fuel line upgrade and a much more labor-intensive install. If the customer wants to buy the additional parts and labor, the results are his for the taking.

 

I have dated several women and I wouldn't say I understand how those work.

 

Hmm.. Did you notice in that EVO above statement that they use the stock turbo inlet pipes up to 660hp, even though they sell them?
I do have their hard inlet pipes on my 18g set-up and I said in the past when I was at around 540 rear wheel HP they didn't make a difference.. Just saying
Thanks EVO for your honesty there..

 

I had the EVOMS intake on my car with stock maf up until not long ago and the car was not garaged and i drove in any conditions snow, rain, sun. didn't have any issues with the intake what so ever. took it off to goto fender well intakes

 

Ya well mine and lots of others got there intakes wet there intake is junk.

 

keith you do realize you dont have a evoms intake on your car but rather a fabspeed intake? i dont endorse the evoms but they are 2 different intakes
https://www.fabspeed.com/996_GT3.html about halfway down the page

 

I the EVOMS intake on before the fabspeed intake.

 

gotcha. when i saw your car you were talking about burnt mafs and i was thinking it was the fabspeed you had on causing it