How do I pin or welding coolant pipes on the 996TT
#16
11-05-2014, 09:04 AM
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Hello everyone, I've been trying to research how to weld or pin the coolant pipes on my 996 turbo and had no luck. I was hoping to find a thread with pictures on where to locate The pipes and what is necessary to get the job done right.
Also what do you guys suggest more welding or pinning...
Keep in mind I do live in Toronto and our summers here are not anything special ... on a lucky day 80 degrees... And I don't track or drag my car strictly a weekend street car...
I am planning to make a tad over 700whp .. Let me know guys please
Thank you
Also what do you guys suggest more welding or pinning...
Keep in mind I do live in Toronto and our summers here are not anything special ... on a lucky day 80 degrees... And I don't track or drag my car strictly a weekend street car...
I am planning to make a tad over 700whp .. Let me know guys please
Thank you
#18
11-05-2014, 10:22 AM
+1 I wouldn't trust JB Weld to hold it together, a Band-Aid to get home only.
~10,000 km on my pinning(also on your tuning
) without any issue, will update the crowd if any leaks ever do occur.
I sent you an email today Tony.
Cheers,
Rob
~10,000 km on my pinning(also on your tuning
) without any issue, will update the crowd if any leaks ever do occur.I sent you an email today Tony.
Cheers,
Rob
I often drive a 1998 Chevy 1500 pick up truck with 180k miles on it when my "projects" are apart being worked on. This is a 1500 dollar vehicle and I would NEVER even use JB weld on it let alone use it on a 996.
The only permanent, in my opinion "real" solution is welding the fittings and then pressure testing each one individually for leaks. Pinning stops catastrophic failure and introduces leaks (we've "fixed" many at this point). These leaks still require an engine removal to fix. Do it once, do it right....
The only permanent, in my opinion "real" solution is welding the fittings and then pressure testing each one individually for leaks. Pinning stops catastrophic failure and introduces leaks (we've "fixed" many at this point). These leaks still require an engine removal to fix. Do it once, do it right....
#19
11-05-2014, 10:26 AM
I often drive a 1998 Chevy 1500 pick up truck with 180k miles on it when my "projects" are apart being worked on. This is a 1500 dollar vehicle and I would NEVER even use JB weld on it let alone use it on a 996.
The only permanent, in my opinion "real" solution is welding the fittings and then pressure testing each one individually for leaks. Pinning stops catastrophic failure and introduces leaks (we've "fixed" many at this point). These leaks still require an engine removal to fix. Do it once, do it right....
The only permanent, in my opinion "real" solution is welding the fittings and then pressure testing each one individually for leaks. Pinning stops catastrophic failure and introduces leaks (we've "fixed" many at this point). These leaks still require an engine removal to fix. Do it once, do it right....
#20
11-05-2014, 10:36 AM
as a replacement sealant JB might be good, had a hard time finding stats on contraction/expansion rates of JB though(match the aluminum rates)...but would still want a mechanical 'lock' to hold the fitting on.
The idea of threaded fittings with O-rings in the best I can come up with as well.
The idea of threaded fittings with O-rings in the best I can come up with as well.
#21
11-05-2014, 11:16 AM
as a replacement sealant JB might be good, had a hard time finding stats on contraction/expansion rates of JB though(match the aluminum rates)...but would still want a mechanical 'lock' to hold the fitting on.
The idea of threaded fittings with O-rings in the best I can come up with as well.
The idea of threaded fittings with O-rings in the best I can come up with as well.
#22
11-05-2014, 11:22 AM
I have no double that JB weld is stronger then what Porsche used. These fittings are one of Porsche's the biggest misses on this platform!
That however does mean I think its an appropriate solution.
Last edited by Tony@epl; 11-05-2014 at 12:16 PM.
#23
11-05-2014, 11:52 AM
i would always defer to the sage judgement of those whoe reputations preceded them and have seen all manner of failings and even work on these cars daily, but in the case of jb weld as an adhesive in hi heat conditions i believe the anecdotal reports of this being a viable solution. though i'd never try to make a case that some "glue" would outlast a weld or the pinning method.
but the truth is, my car has been heat cycled at the racetrack and other places countless times ( with its 122k miles ), and i honestly believe that my fittings might not ever even fail anyway. but if they did? i'm just gonna jb weld, them come what may.
but the truth is, my car has been heat cycled at the racetrack and other places countless times ( with its 122k miles ), and i honestly believe that my fittings might not ever even fail anyway. but if they did? i'm just gonna jb weld, them come what may.
#25
01-25-2015, 08:14 AM
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Toronto
Posts: 420
Rep Power: 73 Thanks for sharing.
#26
01-25-2015, 08:40 AM
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...e-bonding.html
I pined also after the JB weld. As with any bonding it all in the prep of the parts to be bonded and selecting the bonding agent that has the temperature limit and chemical resistance for the environment that the parts will be subjected to.
I pined also after the JB weld. As with any bonding it all in the prep of the parts to be bonded and selecting the bonding agent that has the temperature limit and chemical resistance for the environment that the parts will be subjected to.
#28
01-25-2015, 09:00 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Montreal Canada
Age: 69
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Agree!!!
#30
01-25-2015, 09:18 AM
i knew you would.... as you know jp. there is a lot of bonding in the aerospace field for critical componants. its all in the prep. when i took out my pipes the factory surfaces were smooth very smooth not at all how they should have been for bonding.