996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

Crunching/Creaking front end?

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Old Dec 27, 2014 | 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by '02996ttx50
i dont understand. i have no axles? all I've removed is the cardan (?!) all else is as it has been. shocks/springs and connecting parts.

the only time I've ever heard worn/torn cv boots is when turning the wheel(s!)
I assumed you removed the front diff and axles when you converted to RWD. Why did you leave it there?? Without a cardan shaft the diff and axles are just dead weight providing drag.
 
Old Dec 27, 2014 | 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by pwdrhound
I assumed you removed the front diff and axles when you converted to RWD. Why did you leave it there?? Without a cardan shaft the diff and axles are just dead weight providing drag.
i left the diff, since i hadn't committed to all the parts/uprights etc. that's the way it is now. dead weight yes, but it is negligible running up/down mountains on two lane blacktop. no one gets ahead of me

i still have the rwhp w the torque biasing differential. it's not an entirely undesirable way to run, it just isn't "finished", but since i am nearly over the idea the car is ever again salable as a 996 turbo, i am leaning closer to the full gt2/3 setup and all the benefits it will provide geometry wise.

so, i have axles. it's just all the gt3 six pot calipers/rotors etc. uprights and stubbed axles are no big deal to do.
 
Old Dec 28, 2014 | 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by '02996ttx50
i left the diff, since i hadn't committed to all the parts/uprights etc. that's the way it is now. dead weight yes, but it is negligible running up/down mountains on two lane blacktop. no one gets ahead of me

i still have the rwhp w the torque biasing differential. it's not an entirely undesirable way to run, it just isn't "finished", but since i am nearly over the idea the car is ever again salable as a 996 turbo, i am leaning closer to the full gt2/3 setup and all the benefits it will provide geometry wise.

so, i have axles. it's just all the gt3 six pot calipers/rotors etc. uprights and stubbed axles are no big deal to do.
what you will find when you do commit to a complete rwd setup is less drag on the front end. with the axles connected to the diff you still have close to 70 lbs to the front you also have the drag of the fluid in the diff attached to the axles. removing all this cuts weight and frees up the front end. you have been rwd this long may as well finish it up
 
Old Dec 28, 2014 | 09:11 AM
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i know you guys are right. i'll make that decision once i see the depth of my current setups misery what's in need of replacement vs what isn't. then decide. interestingly, the car has been fine in spite of the unnecessary weight up front. though i'm sure losing it, will be a step up. finishing it is a costly endeavor, is all and i've always really liked the way my car rode/handled etc with the mo30/spring setup. i've never felt the need for 6 pots and ya know.. here we go, another several grand on a car with 123456 miles! that i'll never ever get back out. it's not as if i'm at willow springs every weekend! ..but it IS the right thing to do, no doubt. i may have to dig deep$ lol
 
Old Dec 28, 2014 | 09:29 AM
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update:

car has a small brownish puddle and cpl drops of a viscous brownish fluid slightly oily ( not coolant ) emanating from the lower right front @ bottom of the front lip. couple of drops hanging on it, and small pancake sized puddle directly under same spot which has not yet dried. i have never seen brown fluid come from the car before.

could it be grease from a torn cv boot anyone?? is this possible?
 

Last edited by '02996ttx50; Dec 28, 2014 at 09:31 AM.
Old Dec 28, 2014 | 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by '02996ttx50
i know you guys are right. i'll make that decision once i see the depth of my current setups misery what's in need of replacement vs what isn't. then decide. interestingly, the car has been fine in spite of the unnecessary weight up front. though i'm sure losing it, will be a step up. finishing it is a costly endeavor, is all and i've always really liked the way my car rode/handled etc with the mo30/spring setup. i've never felt the need for 6 pots and ya know.. here we go, another several grand on a car with 123456 miles! that i'll never ever get back out. it's not as if i'm at willow springs every weekend! ..but it IS the right thing to do, no doubt. i may have to dig deep$ lol
I haven't done my RWD conversion yet but it seems the full GT front suspension conversion, while technically better, would be overkill for your uses. The cost to finish the RWD conversion could be $0.00 by just removing all the FWD bits and disassembling the front axles to use the splined part of the CV housing for its ABS reluctor ring.
 
Old Dec 28, 2014 | 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by sinKing
I haven't done my RWD conversion yet but it seems the full GT front suspension conversion, while technically better, would be overkill for your uses. The cost to finish the RWD conversion could be $0.00 by just removing all the FWD bits and disassembling the front axles to use the splined part of the CV housing for its ABS reluctor ring.
may be, and thats why i have never finished it, there has been no noticeable compromise once i got the rearwheel spin issue sorted. the extra unuseable weight hasn't really mattered to me, way the car feels/rides, but less weight is less weight! so i will remove the diff/and axles etc.

but i think i have a bigger fish to fry, steering rack. my tech just told me he believes that may be what I've toasted. i gotta drive down to "tha hood" and get it looked at, hoping later today. it IS after all leaking pentosin it seems, though it didn't seem "oily" like pent usually feels/looks. looked like brownish brackish water.
 
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Last edited by '02996ttx50; Dec 28, 2014 at 09:52 AM.
Old Dec 28, 2014 | 10:04 AM
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I'm of the opinion, once you remove the axles, CV joints and diff, you may notice a larger difference in handling than by just disconnecting power to the front diff.

70 lbs up front is nearly like 2 bags of rock salt which makes a huge difference in how the car handles. And this weight is only part of it. The other which makes a huge difference is the mechanical drag of the axle assemblies and turning of the diff. I imagine there is huge left to right drag especially in turns and quick transitions.

When first driving a Turbo compared to a C2 the steering felt heavy and trucky, this is even at speeds in my neighborhood at < 25 mph. The power going up front is most likely only 5% and it would most likely feel the same with just the cardon shaft removed. As stated above, it's all the heavy s*it connected to the front wheels that causes this. Eliminate it and it will feel like a C2, light and nimble.

Another thing to consider, and this is solely for performance. Going the 6 puck GT3, GT2 calipers and rotors for street use will add rotational and unspung mass to the front axles. This will (probably) increase the ability to slow from very high speeds, repeatedly, like on closed course events but totally unnecessary on the street. I think it would do nothing positive mechanically for street use.

I do like the look of the huge calipers and rotors but then start thinking of using them to the point of having them glow. I don't know If I'd ever even get them hot to the touch on a spirited run in the canyons. So, to me adding the 6 pots would actually be going the wrong direction, adding critical unsprung weight which will compromise handling to achieve a "look"only.
 
Old Dec 28, 2014 | 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by '02996ttx50
may be, and thats why i have never finished it, there has been no noticeable compromise once i got the rearwheel spin issue sorted. the extra unuseable weight hasn't really mattered to me, way the car feels/rides, but less weight is less weight! so i will remove the diff/and axles etc.

but i think i have a bigger fish to fry, steering rack. my tech just told me he believes that may be what I've toasted. i gotta drive down to "tha hood" and get it looked at, hoping later today. it IS after all leaking pentosin it seems, though it didn't seem "oily" like pent usually feels/looks. looked like brownish brackish water.
Ah yes... I had to do this one also. If memory serves me - there are TWO ways to replace it. There's a rebuilt part and an OEM one. Somehow, I think the reman one was the way to go as it included the entire sealed assembly. The good news is that the steering was vastly improved after replacement.

I would never have known there was something wrong, but after replacing it - it felt like a *new* car!
 
Old Dec 28, 2014 | 10:10 AM
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I would not take the car further then what suits your needs as far as braking and other mods= money you will not get back. I would finish front as far as rear wheel drive conversion doing so correctly but without going crazy. Buying good used parts as I believe you have in the past is a great way to save. The car as far as what you say is plenty quick and keeps you happy so keep it solid mechanically and enjoy as is= just my 2 cents lol.
 
Old Dec 28, 2014 | 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by nick49
I'm of the opinion, once you remove the axles, CV joints and diff, you may notice a larger difference in handling than by just disconnecting power to the front diff.

.
well,.. lighter is better so i'm sure you're right. my stock calipers are in fact sufficient for my uses/needs.
 
Old Dec 28, 2014 | 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by rmc1148
I would not take the car further then what suits your needs as far as braking and other mods= money you will not get back. I would finish front as far as rear wheel drive conversion doing so correctly but without going crazy. Buying good used parts as I believe you have in the past is a great way to save. The car as far as what you say is plenty quick and keeps you happy so keep it solid mechanically and enjoy as is= just my 2 cents lol.
exactly. what I'm doin lol
 
Old Dec 28, 2014 | 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by ttpopo
Ah yes... I had to do this one also. If memory serves me - there are TWO ways to replace it. There's a rebuilt part and an OEM one. Somehow, I think the reman one was the way to go as it included the entire sealed assembly. The good news is that the steering was vastly improved after replacement.

I would never have known there was something wrong, but after replacing it - it felt like a *new* car!
found it. 450/500 @ pelican. will diagnose today, order tomorrow once me and my bud get under it later today. thx all
 
Old Dec 28, 2014 | 10:55 AM
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Remove the AWD crap (=free) and call it a day. You'll notice a big difference in weight/drag reduction and steering feel. Don't worry about the GT2 uprights, you won't discern the difference on the street/canyons. 6 pot brakes are a total waste of money for a street car, strictly bling..
 

Last edited by pwdrhound; Dec 28, 2014 at 10:58 AM.
Old Dec 28, 2014 | 11:32 AM
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you are the sage voice of reason. exactly my thoughts, since even as as it IS i have no complaints. I'm gonna remove the diff and if i get squirelly with my lighter front end, i'll throw some sandbags in the frunk. since i lost/threw away my spare lol

i'm just dying to get this diagnosed, and hope to have it sussed by late PM today.
 


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