I have no problem providing information about the high hp cars they've built and that have held up. Thats at least factual and shows that their engine builder doesn't leave rod bolts off.

But really, all the "i'm the best at whatever" is ridiculous when it comes to engine building, tuning, and the next thing. First, defining best is incredibly difficult in that space, second, its very subjective anyway, and third, prove it. The number of tuners that are thought to be the best and then one bad story comes out and then its a flood of negative reviews is massive. NO ONE is that good...period.

I'm sure the kid builds a fine motor...but I trust absolutely zero shops, tuners, engine builders, etc including Porsche. All full of ****.

 

well, of course it was hyperbole, but that's what car tuner reps do when they post. some more deftly or with a bit more subtlety than others was my only point.

 

Can I ask what happened?

 

That price includes rods, head studs, head gaskets, bearings, all seals/gaskets, and labor. Additional rebuild items, labor for R&Ring engine from car, etc. are extra. Most higher mileage 996TTs will end up around $15-20k depending on what they need in terms of head work, replacement timing components, etc. You can build a bare-bones 1000whp 3.8L for mid/upper 20s, and a 1100-1400whp 3.8L or 4.0L for low 30s. Contact me for more details.

The reason why we do not require a retorque with our head studs is that they are strong enough to allow us to put a huge initial torque into them (in steps, of course) without the stud yielding. The studs are made from H11 tool steel, and this latest batch we got in tested at 204.5ksi. In this case, even after everything compresses slightly from the initial heat cycles, there is still enough clamping force to support 1000hp+.

We have head gaskets made to our specs as they are stronger than OEM and come in custom thicknesses and patterns to vary compression ratio and to work with larger bores and 12mm head studs. They're $379/pr regardless of specification, for ~1000hp we typically drop compression as a safety factor against detonation and to reduce loading on the engine (stock sleeves, 10mm studs, etc.)

Sam

 

I'll own it and say that's my personal opinion, as he would never say it himself. Of course I'm biased because I work with the guy, but his resume speaks for itself.

John's been here building motors for us since the 996TT was new in showrooms. There are 700whp+ builds like what are being discussed here that are 10 years old and have more than 50k miles of hard use on them without any issue. Beyond these more basic strength rebuilds, he's been building 1000hp+ 996/997TT engines since 2008, breaking 230mph in the standing mile in 2009, setting the mile record at 234mph in 2011 that was only broken in the past year or so. Our old shop car set the 997TT half mile record at 217mph in 2012, which was then beat twice this year by Anthony Taylor's car at 219.3mph. He had a major hand in the development of the 3.9L and 4.1L GT3 motors Sharkwerks is running that have been lauded for their all-around performance. All of these engines are running components, modifications, and assembled with procedures developed in-house largely by John himself.

Objectively speaking, I think that is a pretty good demonstration of mastery of this platform in terms of making engines that are at the top of their league in terms of power and proven performance.

Sam

 

your ad shows 10mm head studs. here you talk of both 12mm and 10mm headstuds. which are used in the stage 1 build? don't the 12mm require drilling the head and block to allow the larger size to fit?

also you don't mention rings. are they included in the build? seems silly to tear a motor down add rods and not add new rings no matter what the mileage is

 

We use 10mm head studs in our Stage 1. For sustained use beyond ~1100hp, we recommend the 12mms, and you're correct they do require machinework to install. The 10s are strong like oxen but have their limits due to the fastener and thread size; to date we've never stretched a set of the 12s.

Rings are not included in that $10k price. We prefer to use the OEM rings on stock piston/sleeve 3.6s, which run $1175/set. They are expensive enough, and the stock ones wear well enough that for a motor being built for rods and with no compression/leakdown issues they are an inspect & advise item rather than an automatic bin & replace. On high mileage (>60k is generally considered high mileage) or engines that are being rebuilt due to some kind of failure, we would strongly recommend them going into the build.

 

I would definitely contact John Bray at Evolution Motorsports. He is the best engine builder out there IMO. Who else has built a car that has come close to accomplishing what my car and Mayhem have? I've spoke with every so called big engine builder in the country. When I spoke with John his knowledge level was night and day. I've ran my car over 15 kill passes at the half mile events and have had zero issues. Sure there are others that can build an engine, but I can promise you it will not be as good. How many can build an engine to hold 1600whp and go full throttle 15 times all the way to 6th gear? When an owner of one of the most reputable turbo companies tells you that you have one of the most efficient engines he's ever seen that has to tell you something, especially when he's been in the game for over 20 years. I'll rest my case there! Be smart and send it to EVOMS. I just spoke with two other enthusiast that had there engines built by two other supposedly "top shops" and they blew, both now currently at EVOMS. If you have any questions PM me.

 

we have see many guy's here with complete stock engine pass1000 crank hp!!unless your goal is 900whp++ not sure aftermarket head studs are needed.....but better to have it as prevention? actualy i have found more catastrophic failure with aftermarket headstuds...are oem headstuds more stable in heat cycling but eventualy fail a certain hp level....porsche oem studs dont need to be retorque and there's a reason cuz they are made of high quality steel...

 

Some great info in this thread.

 

layingback lifted his head bolts (factory) at 1.6 on e85 in 30* weather on a hard pull. less than 650rwhp at the time. stock bolts just won't last

 

right off the top of my head would be tim941nyc. self built and huge power and the fastest mile turbo porsche. bbi would be another . not saying he isn't a great builder but he isn't the only one

 

I drive my car hard with zero issues. Not sure if I've seen a car of my caliber come from anywhere other than Evoms.

 

i'm curious about the cost of your engine build like this thread is all about ?

your car is sick but all relative!

 

I was wondering if your car is sponsored as I see stickers on it when you race ?

Also, on your comments about other cars....eg Tim..... Tim is a one man band, runs a very busy electrical/plumbing type industrial business and does our cars at GREAT RATES properly 1st time as well..... then he works on his car on the side, which for mind still has the 1 mile record until you beat it.

There are guys in the UK doing 260 mph plus in Porkers at the moment and some cars are aimed for 1/2 mile and some for mega top end, Tim's is the latter. I am dying to see videos of your car do the TX Mile or the 1.5 mile top speed run in Idaho etc.

I also didn't think the thread was about who has the fastest car but great engine builders and I have seen work by several different so called great engine builders who I wouldnt let change my light-bulbs.

The OP asked the cost to do basic engine work and EVOMS told him $10k and so far are the only vendor here to give an actual quote. Rods and headstuds as a basic build will be somewhere near $3k if you use EVOMS studs and Carillo rods.. then add labour and other things.

EVOMS is great, BBi gets rave reviews, Tim is ****ing remarkable... the little jigs and cam timing devices and the like he has built himself and his engineering knowledge are great... I use him because he is local and gives great service and back up.