Just thinking here...but does the solenoid for the divertors act as a back-up in-case of an overboost situation? Because even if you pinched the wastegate hoses to allow more boost essentially taking out the N75 wg boost solenoid, the other solenoid would still target the set boost that is called for by the tune.

PS - I think you said you had bypassed the divertor solenoid and still the boost was a little low right?

 

I have done a lot of reading to see if the diverter valve plays any role as a back up for overboosting. Although some people in the Audi world think it does there is no concrete proof that it does. In fact I found a post where someone went into the code and found out that the solenoid for the DVs will only ever be activated if there is negative pedal movement.

But just in case I removed the springs from my billet diverter valves and put a solid rod in them so they cant open no matter what. It made no difference.

 

Wow, you really have tried everything.

 

Yea, I don't know whether to laugh about it or cry. haha

 

I haven't read through the entire thread, but have you tried to flash the tune back to stock...or try to flash a new tune?

 

more I read the more this sounds like my issue and the time ultimately wasted messing with the wg's, ad nauseum but I've already contributed what helped me.


I agree with the suggestion to look toward the file(s)/ecu etc. I don't ( in admittedly my limited experience ) feel from the sound of all this that you're dealing with a "parts" issue, ( at least to the degree the ecu is a "part". ) if in fact you have swapped out the n75, the check valve and all associated intake stuff. I hate to say it, but simply because you don't HEAR a cracked check valve doesn't rule out the possibility it could in fact be as simple as that! its a 20 dollar part. forgive me if you already swapped rather than just pressure tested. you HAVE to eliminate that a a "potential" cause given it ( a hairline crack ) will create the situation confounding you.


that said..?


as others have said, a retune (?) ( have/have not tried? ) might well reveal the issue. man, this is driving ME nuts. I sure hope you get this sorted.

 

Don't give up man!

I would also tune back to stock to eliminate the 'tune' variable altogether.

 

I can't go back to the stock tune because I have 72lbs injectors so the car would run very poorly.

I'm not the type to just throw parts at a car and like to figure out what the issue is and replace the correct part but after all the tests I did I think I am at the point where I might be changing things like check valves, MAP sensors, MAF sensor etc very soon. lol

 

How old are your plugs and coils? You might have incomplete combustion which could cause your turbines to spin slower than they should. Just grasping at straws now.
Those are maintenance items anyways

 

Plugs are less than a year old but the coils can be original for all I know since I never changed them. Car has 55k miles on it so maybe its time? I just have no misfires or anything as far as I know so it never occured ot me that it can be bad enough to hurt peak boost? Might be wrong though.

PS, Grasping at straws is fine. I need all the ideas I can get at this point. lol

 

you can go back to stock. have your tuner run stock file and scale the injectors to run in stock form. ez peazy

 

I hear ya... But I don't consider it throwing parts when either the parts regularly require replacement as part of maintenance or.. They're under a hundred bucks

Check valves are 20 lol...and this ain't your maf..but please? Rule out that all your intake stuff doesn't have any possible leak source and the little old.valve is tricky and has fooled many!

I wish you success!

 

True but I also have K24/20G billets now VS. the stock K16 turbos so I don't think it will be as simple as that.

Also to be honest I am not sure what going back to stock boost levels will show as the car has no issues reaching .7bar. It struggles to go over 1bar although the changes I have made so far are letting me see 1.2bar for a bit. I think that is due to allowing the turbos to work harder and pump that pressure out.

 

well the 24/20 can run a stock k24 file . thats no issue. you have done just about everything one could think of. maybe its time for some specific porsche diagnostic equipment and let the dealer have a go at it?

 

^ Agree time to let some fresh eyes take a look.