For those who replaced the voltage regulator
I work on a lot of Euro cars, you'd be amazed at some of the dumb problems the switch can cause on modern cars, it's not like the old days...
Besides, the switch can be bought new for sub-$10(I just paid $8 taxes in for a back-up/spare) to buy and hard to argue the diagnostic value of that...
And yes I completely agree, it can be foolish to throw money at it without regard.
Besides, the switch can be bought new for sub-$10(I just paid $8 taxes in for a back-up/spare) to buy and hard to argue the diagnostic value of that...
And yes I completely agree, it can be foolish to throw money at it without regard.
Despite this I would not replace the ignition switch at this point. Get the charging system fixed and go from there. If the ignition switch caused absolutely no probs before the alternator issues, it is one of the items that will def not be affected by overcharging.
Sorry, but I like to know exactly what caused a problem and what fixed it. Throwing parts and money at a car is a common repair tactic (even at dealers) that makes me sick.
If you want to replace the switch as a maintenance item, do it once the car is back up and running.
Sorry, but I like to know exactly what caused a problem and what fixed it. Throwing parts and money at a car is a common repair tactic (even at dealers) that makes me sick.
If you want to replace the switch as a maintenance item, do it once the car is back up and running.
Last edited by 993GT; Jun 23, 2015 at 11:11 AM.
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I work on a lot of Euro cars, you'd be amazed at some of the dumb problems the switch can cause on modern cars, it's not like the old days...
Besides, the switch can be bought new for sub-$10(I just paid $8 taxes in for a back-up/spare) to buy and hard to argue the diagnostic value of that...
And yes I completely agree, it can be foolish to throw money at it without regard.
Besides, the switch can be bought new for sub-$10(I just paid $8 taxes in for a back-up/spare) to buy and hard to argue the diagnostic value of that...
And yes I completely agree, it can be foolish to throw money at it without regard.
Where? I looked it up and saw that it was like 100$
got mine through my local account, but can get them anywhere...ECS Tuning is great to deal with, they have many options...http://www.ecstuning.com/Porsche-200...ches/Ignition/
I still would not replace anything until the primary issue is resolved. Just as an example: I have had more than one new part that was defective right out of the box. If you were to install a new ignition switch that actually happened to be defective, you'd be complicating matters immensely and end up chasing your tail. I wasn't questioning the sensibility of replacing the ignition switch proactively, I was simply commenting on the methodology.
I've seen plenty of your posts and respect your knowledge on the 996s, Rob. I am just returning to Porsche after a 15 year break and I was never seriously involved with any water cooled cars - till now. :-))
Sorry for going OT.
Last edited by stevemfr; Jun 24, 2015 at 12:55 AM.
I agree a new defective part can completely complicate matters, and voltage issues is priority 1 here. Issue and solution need to be investigated when the car is back in acceptable charging range.
OP has said in his other thread that he has had MAF codes come up in the past...this scream of MAF failure, particularly after unknown voltage spiking.
Porsche's are nice cars to work on; 'playing' with a Range Rover Sport and Gallardo today-wish me luck! lol
Cheers,
Rob
OP has said in his other thread that he has had MAF codes come up in the past...this scream of MAF failure, particularly after unknown voltage spiking.
Porsche's are nice cars to work on; 'playing' with a Range Rover Sport and Gallardo today-wish me luck! lol
Cheers,
Rob
Actually, I work on a lot of Euro cars too - and I wouldn't at all be surprised at the issues that can be caused by voltage fluctuations. I'm a part of a company with a couple of your countrymen: http://www.gap-diagnostic.com
I still would not replace anything until the primary issue is resolved. Just as an example: I have had more than one new part that was defective right out of the box. If you were to install a new ignition switch that actually happened to be defective, you'd be complicating matters immensely and end up chasing your tail. I wasn't questioning the sensibility of replacing the ignition switch proactively, I was simply commenting on the methodology.
I've seen plenty of your posts and respect your knowledge on the 996s, Rob. I am just returning to Porsche after a 15 year break and I was never seriously involved with any water cooled cars - till now. :-))
Sorry for going OT.
I still would not replace anything until the primary issue is resolved. Just as an example: I have had more than one new part that was defective right out of the box. If you were to install a new ignition switch that actually happened to be defective, you'd be complicating matters immensely and end up chasing your tail. I wasn't questioning the sensibility of replacing the ignition switch proactively, I was simply commenting on the methodology.
I've seen plenty of your posts and respect your knowledge on the 996s, Rob. I am just returning to Porsche after a 15 year break and I was never seriously involved with any water cooled cars - till now. :-))
Sorry for going OT.
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