Perhaps a better alternative to a MAF-less setup?

 

2 times the risk of failure vs. no risk of failure. ill take mafless

 

Safer, easier to tune and better driveability? Speaking in terms of stock ECU. Two Hitachi's could be a great way to go!

I ran 2 MAFs on my R32 GTR and Z32TT. Both drove like a dream.

 

You would have to run something to split the voltage so the ecu could recognize the maf signal. Tried that on my supra yeeeears ago....ran ok but not worth the trouble IMO, especially on our cars. Just dump the maf, make some fender intakes and get a mafless tune....done.

 

Maybe for a stand alone, but I don't think it's worth the trouble on a factory Ecu.
Tony from EPL seems to be against mafless systems if your not making like 4 digit power.

 

MAFLESS - spools quicker and I have had zero reliability issues on my car even driving through heavy rain, puddles etc

 

Tony/EPL offers better MAF options, just go that route.

 

how is it safer? i have 850 rpm idle and drives like stock with 2150 cc injectors. even my s/c am didn't have a mad in 2002 simple map tuning

 

You have ProEFI. I'm mostly speaking in terms of our stock ECU
Having to rely on the O2's that much make me nervous.

In my own history, working with speed density setups are more difficult to get right. (GMC Typhoon, Stealth Twin Turbo)
I have zero experience with ProEFI. That may be a game changer, but I'm no ready for that yet.

997's run dual MAF's. I'd just like to separate the intake plumbing.

 

If i didn't have to pass MA state emissions, I'd go maffless. Not sure how you'd pass like that...

 

i have a friend running protomotive males on stock computer k16 billets fuel upgrades i/c and exhaust. car runs like stock idles like stock and is ultra reliable
i have mafless file on my factory computer running piggyback on my proefi. i have to pass emissions and the mafless isn't an issue. as long as your emissions readiness monitors are active why would mafless trigger a failure?

 

Mafless is not for everyone. It is NOT as friendly to drive as some may think. I have clients going back to tunes with stock Maf - as a matter of fact one just just told me he hates it.
Not sure why anyone would want to do it unless your at 800 whp plus.
I have clients running very well on a oem Maf and they do run a28s as well as a30s and if your on a stock motor I would not let you go past 1.5 bar anyways.
You guys need to go back to basics and worry about other things your putting on a car like ics and or making sure your boost leak free as that is where the hidden HP rests.
I'm trapping mid 150s and running mid 9s and done that a handful of times and that's on a stock Ecu. So yeah - it can be done and not one lucky time but a handful of times. Same with oem Maf. You can make it run well if your in good hands. No need to reengineer a set up unless your planning to run 1.7 bar plus with big turbos.
Just my opinion
Markski

 

1.Apexi AFC Neo. The box is capable of calculating one output from dual MAF input.

Or

2. Ask your tuner to multiply one MAF's values by two.

I was about to use solution #1 with my 997 airbox and VGT turbos (even bought the box, still unused) , but ended up to #2. It works, I have a Hitachi MAF on LH turbo's feeder and a dummy on RH to equalize the flow.

 

Why ? Because there are many threads here and at rennlist on associated problems that would be solved by going Mafless..... problems that do not appear to be MAF related, but end up being so...... if your tuner is good than MAFLESS can be a greta solution even on 600 whp cars

After blowing 2 MAFS in a few days and reading about 5 others in the same week I decided to go that MAFLESS route

Each to their own

 

How does a mafless set up accurately calculate load?? I spoke with a number of tuners and they all recommended against mafless for a road course set up for a number of reasons including safety. I have zero issues running a Maf on a stock ECU running 1.2 bar and 600whp/670wtq.. Not sure why people are having issues...I think it has to do with the tune..