http://www.autoblog.com/2014/03/13/c...m-fixed-video/

 

yup, the key is improving friction/stiction, or going 10/10ths with a positive lock like knurling....also note the Z/28 is running Pirelli's as well, never seen a tire rotate so much, I'm getting really tired of it...going back to Falken's

 

On my old drag cars I would use screws, not done much today lol.

 

These are issues generally seen during track use with sticky tires, not street grocery getters. As such the generic maintenance manual stuff does not apply. Bead knurling does not cause leaks if done correctly. I've been using knurled wheels for several years without any issues. OEM manufacturers are now starting to use this technology on factory wheels. Nissan uses knurled bead wheels on the OEM Nissan GTR wheels for example.

 

Excellent thread..........had no idea many others shared the same issue.
Pwdrhound is correct, this is a track issue....sticky tires / heat / horsepower.
I run NT01s but prior to that also had the issue w/SportCups. We have taken steps to 'rough-up' the contact area and then thoroughly clean and dry mount new rubber.......helps some but not solve. With valve stem position marked on the side-wall, I would always see movement by mid-way through the 1st day of an event. By end of the 2nd or 3rd it's nuts.


I welcome the new ideas.....for the 2016 season. Thanks !

 

Assuming you are using a non directional tire like an NT01 or a slick, you can flip the wheels side to side on the car every 3 or 4 sessions and that will tend to rotate the tire back into position. That's what I do to even out tire wear but it helps if you have an issue with tire slipage.

 

Corrected, 1000hp, correct?

I was going to ask the same - what about the drag racers??

Correct on the Camaro, the front tires under braking.

 

this is what i was talking about sand drag racers, we had alot of trouble keeping these seated with 3psi in them they would either spin or leak, or sometimes break the bead seal if you left and kicked the rear end out. it makes 125hp and with a centrifugal lockup clutch all the power is delivered to the gun drilled hollow axle with those .125 thickness light weight tires the shock load is very high.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pK...i=w799-h599-no

but there are many scales of this problem we are not the only ones, alot of drag racers are using bead lock wheels or running screws into the tire to hold it still. I dont like the screw idea much

 

LOL you're right, 125hp!! lol!

 

Reporting on the outcome of my most recent experiences from Sebring yesterday.


Actions taken in advance:
- Rims sand blasted where tires squeeze radially.
- New Hoosier R7 315/30-18's and 275/35-18's.
- Two tires mounted dry with alcohol only as lubricant, which evaporates.
- Two tires mounted using Permatex 80011 Form-A-Gasket #2 Sealant (on recommendation from drag racing friend).
- The two mounting methods were installed diagonally LF-RR and RF-LR.


Outcome:
- 160M on track.
- The two tires mounted with Permatex slid slightly in the beginning. I then switched them side to side and they slipped back closer to starting pos., but then seemed to no longer slip. One tire is about 1" off the mark, and the other one right on.
- The two tires mounted dry using alcohol only during mounting did not slip at all!


Choice for me going forward is simple: The glue is messy. The alcohol mounting is clean and did not slip, and will be what I use going forward. I don't know whether the sand blasting helped but assume it did. For the first time ever the tires did not go out of balance and I will not have to re-balance before going back!

 

Nice test and thanks for sharing the results!
Cheers,
Rob

 

Interesting! Thanks!

 

Not surprised, I've used methanol when putting on silicon sleeves for intercoolers and once dried it had to be pried off with a screwdriver it stuck so well! Clean the rubber and the wheel and then lube it with the alcohol, it should stick really well! Happy to hear you've found a potential solution!