Converted over to Cobb Tune
Something wasn't right if you only dynoed 460hp/500lbs with UMW ZC turbos. Do you have the UMW K16/997GT2RS ZC turbos?
I have these and when I ran them on a stock engine I dynoed 590hp/630lbs on a dynojet. A stock 2015 ZO6 dynoed 589/613 on the same dyno right after we dynoed my car (ZO6 is listed as 650 crank front the factory). This provides a good data point for the dyno.
I had the following mods:
UMW 91 octane custom programming (1.25bar)
UMW injectors
RUF intake manifold / turbo intake hoses
RUF exhaust
Ported OEM exhaust manifolds
997GT2RS intercoolers
964RS LWFW
Here is the baseline dyno graph just prior to the engine rebuild.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/qtx6kF]
I have these and when I ran them on a stock engine I dynoed 590hp/630lbs on a dynojet. A stock 2015 ZO6 dynoed 589/613 on the same dyno right after we dynoed my car (ZO6 is listed as 650 crank front the factory). This provides a good data point for the dyno.
I had the following mods:
UMW 91 octane custom programming (1.25bar)
UMW injectors
RUF intake manifold / turbo intake hoses
RUF exhaust
Ported OEM exhaust manifolds
997GT2RS intercoolers
964RS LWFW
Here is the baseline dyno graph just prior to the engine rebuild.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/qtx6kF]

SAE correction is not meant for engines subjected to closed loop atmospheric pressure normalization. In English, SAE will overcorrect most turbo cars (including the 996tt) when dyno'd at higher elevations. There are still losses, just not as much as SAE corrects for. I dyno'd 460+ hp SAE corrected RWHP on a dynojet in Albuquerque (~5200') with a flash and exhaust (K16s). The car trapped 115 mph -indicative of its ~400 RWHP uncorrected number. In SAE conditions, I would have expected 420-430 RWHP, on par w/ most flash /exhaust cars dyno'd at sea level.
AMS has a blurb on it here http://www.amsperformance.com/resour...eal-info-facts
..but there's more to it -these cars target load and in-turn absolute pressure. Its why gauge pressure ticks up at higher elevation.
AMS has a blurb on it here http://www.amsperformance.com/resour...eal-info-facts
..but there's more to it -these cars target load and in-turn absolute pressure. Its why gauge pressure ticks up at higher elevation.
Last edited by earl3; May 22, 2016 at 09:44 PM.
Something thick with high flowing end tanks and possibly larger piping. I'm biased and prefer Silly Rabbit Motorsport intercoolers. The ducts need to be modified and you should seal them well. Markski also makes a good set of 4.5inch intercoolers as do others, some as big as 5inches thick. Not everyone favors large intercoolers, they're heavier than stock in the worst place.
Larger piping will flow more but cool less as the air flows through more rapidly which is a trade off, I went with the smaller choice of piping.
Did you do any datalogging during the dyno? On the street? You should log IAT and see how much it differs from ambient at cruise and under power, say several gears. Ha e you done a leak test lately?
It's possible that at your power level your intercoolers are cooling well enough so I'd test that first before throwing cash. My gut says you'd see an improvement in cooling but intuition is often wrong. If the fans had been positioned closer it would probably have helped, blowing upward into the vents from below seems to be how most do it fwiw. If you really wanted to cool things spray a mixture of rubbing alcohol and water on the intercoolers between pulls or even during a pull to assist them in dropping temps when stationary...
Lastly, what are your future goals? Lots of power? Few changes? Happy with how it feels now? Before spending money get data on the current setup and decide where you want to be, it might make sense to stick with what you have even if something better is around if you're already happy. Even the best uber intercoolers might not make enough difference for the money if you aren't going to change other things. There are also other areas of restriction worth considering too like the intake piping that might provide more bang for buck...
Larger piping will flow more but cool less as the air flows through more rapidly which is a trade off, I went with the smaller choice of piping.
Did you do any datalogging during the dyno? On the street? You should log IAT and see how much it differs from ambient at cruise and under power, say several gears. Ha e you done a leak test lately?
It's possible that at your power level your intercoolers are cooling well enough so I'd test that first before throwing cash. My gut says you'd see an improvement in cooling but intuition is often wrong. If the fans had been positioned closer it would probably have helped, blowing upward into the vents from below seems to be how most do it fwiw. If you really wanted to cool things spray a mixture of rubbing alcohol and water on the intercoolers between pulls or even during a pull to assist them in dropping temps when stationary...
Lastly, what are your future goals? Lots of power? Few changes? Happy with how it feels now? Before spending money get data on the current setup and decide where you want to be, it might make sense to stick with what you have even if something better is around if you're already happy. Even the best uber intercoolers might not make enough difference for the money if you aren't going to change other things. There are also other areas of restriction worth considering too like the intake piping that might provide more bang for buck...
It is a Mustang Dyno. I stopped over at the shop today to finally discuss in person. I'm happy with the numbers /graph across the spectrum. I will be interested in the drive ability once the alignment is buttoned up tomorrow. The car has evolved into a dedicated DE car.
SRM intercoolers are fantastic and don't come with the typical "Porsche Tax" you see on just about everything else here.
I have a set myself.
I have a set myself.
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Bleser
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