So, if I want to remove the carbon canister and as much as possible of associated piping, what must be left on the car and is Motronic's programming necessary?

 

in have done it on my car. If you remove the whole system and all the lines it very hard to ever go back. You will need to add a tank bleeder though as well as tuning to shut of the cel's.

 

Thanks, tank bleeder was of course obvious, but I'm wondering if there's difference between euro and US modles in system control and CELs. Or will keeping the valve on top of the engine connected keep CEL(s) away.

 

Wow...that's a lot of plumbing. Will it pass CA emissions?

 

Freddy, what does that weigh? Looks like some of that is stock fuel lines and stock filter as well? Any idea what just the charcoal canister stuff was?

I highly doubt it.

 

Yes some of were fuel lines. All in all the evap stuff is probably 15lb.
no it will not pass emissions.

 

It won't pass emissions officially, but evaporative emissions are tested by placing a vehicle in an enclosed chamber and raising the temp in the chamber by a certain amount over a period of time (I've forgotten how much and how long. With a properly functioning system, the charcoal canister will absorb nearly all of the HC emissions. Once the motor is run, the canister is purged by having the motor suck air through the canister).

There is no one who tests that outside of vehicle testing labs during certification.

Are you sure with the DTCs as well? I haven't looked into it, and it would make sense that they did something, but I'm having a hard time figuring out where they would measure the function of the evaporative emissions system and what sort of DTC would trip a CEL. I am not an expert on emissions related diagnostics, though.

All that said, the evaporative emissions system does not affect performance in any way shape or form. The only advantage to removing the system would be weight reduction. And Freddy, I think your weight guesstimate is somewhat high. My evap system is not yet re-installed. I will be able to weigh everything except the line to the motor (which wasn't removed for the build). I'd actually guess only about 1/3 as much as your guesstimate.
I'll try to weigh everything in the coming days.

 

Not because of power or weight, but space...or lack of it.

 

ha it's probabaly less. I'm thinking with the secondary air pump as well.
I know it throws cel, i don't remember which ones. I have everything turned off though. I did it because I wrecked my lines while pulling my stock fuel lines out. So just got rid of everything because me car is to far along and can't really go back to stock.

doing it though along with the secondary air pump delete and vac reduction makes the engine bay much more open and easier to work on.

 

Yeah I deleted the secondary air pump in mine as well. Even getting rid of that made things a lot easier.

The code by the charcoal canister is the major leak fuel evap, same as if you dont screw the gas cap on correctly, isnt it?

 

Ok, that makes sense. You can check pressure in the tank vs ambient or vac in the line to the motor. That should be easy to bypass even w/o a tune. I will look at the wiring diags sometime in the coming days as well.

Pete: smaller canister from another application?

 

I've got all of the wiring diagrams laid out on my bench right now, anything in particular you are looking for?

The tank vent valve sensor is a 2 wire sensor, wire 1 goes to pin C3 in the ECU and the other goes to a common ground. (Im looking at 2001 wiring diagrams, not sure if much/any would have changed in this regard in other years).

 

That sounds like "it" - or at least one of the sensors that would log a DTC if evap wasn't working. You wouldn't happen to know what the valve sends as a signal or where it's located, would you? I can't leave what I'm doing right now (setting up the tree for the wife to decorate. German wife, German Christmas traditions: the tree gets set up just prior to Christmas Eve and the kids don't get to see it till the Eve which is also when they get to unwrap. Let's us sleep on in on Christmas Day tho ).
I will go out to the car tomorrow and see what I can find. Can you let me know the wire colors. I assume gnd is brn or brn/somestripe.

 

Actually-- sorry about the wrong info, I had 2 pages lined up incorrectly.. Glad I wasn't wiring anything off of that

What I thought was common ground is actually a red/blue wire that goes to a common point that is shared with several relays (Injection-Oxygen Sensor-Ignition; MFI+DI; Start lock; Secondary Air Pump; Blower Engine Compartment; Air Conditioning Compressor; a junction joining all 6 step relays; )... I can check it out more later, I don't have the other pages laid out. Looks like it also goes to the MAF and Cooling Water Stop Valve.

The wire to the ECU is violet.

 

That seems an odd thing to focus on for space or weight. You're going to get a bit more gasoline in the air in your garage. Maybe not enough to smell, but you're going to be breathing it.