id like to know this info as well..?

 

I am thinking about the torque solutions kit
The bbi kit only has 6 pipes.

 

I bought the torque solutions kit because it has all 7 of the needed pipes minus the 90-degree elbow.

The pictures of welded stock pipes online did not give me much confidence as the welds look like they have porosity.

 

I tried not to take too much of the engine apart because last time I did something like this I unnecessarily rebuilt an engine on a BMW.
I ended up disassembling the alternator because the inside bearing was really noisy. I'll have to add pictures of the disassembly because I did not see any DIY on here. I ordered a Timken new bearing on amazon and regreased the other one.

I did some more cleaning on the engine. I really like working on this car.

 

You dropped the engine in your driveway without a lift? Hats off to you, sir!

 

Thanks, I'm not looking forward to the future me putting it back in.

 

I was slightly ahead of you when you started this thread, no longer. Mine was put back in and started up saturday. I'm now pulling it back out again. So my suggestion is you double check everything you can't reach once its in, then check it all one more time before you put it back up. Looks like my #5 fuel injector plug wasn't fully seated, I can kinda see it and its not at all plugged in anymore at least. I of course mark every bolt I torque, but I clearly missed an electrical connector snapping all the way on.

 

Oh ok, I'm actually retaping the engine harness. Also there are 2 wires that look like they need to be lengthened. They were really tight I have a wiring harness from an E55 I parted out. I need to try and find the same color wires.

 

I ended up buying a 997 GT3 RS oil cooler. It was cheaper and only required a little massaging to fit.
I had to heat up the nipple using a heat gun and move it UPWARDS so it would be like the stock one and also push the top fin on one corner for it to fit.
I've had another project I was working on over the winter, but it looks like my last order will be here on Monday and hopefully, the engine will be back in the car next weekend.



















ignore the clear pipe, I was running new vacuum lines

 

I was posting on another forum but it looks like it was deleted...?

The car is back up and running, except I just removed the turbos, The right side actuator was leaking.

I sent the turbos for a rebuild out to gpop shop. 20 year old turbos should have been rebuilt when I had the engine out... but they seemed fine. Anyway, I don't know if anyone has had experience with them. They seem very knowledgeable. They ordered new actuators but they were mambas. I asked if they could order forge ones instead. I have a week or so longer to wait until they come in.

Here are some more pictures of my progress. I had the y pipe connected in the back for whatever reason. Put the Y-pipe in after the engine is hanging in the engine bay.

The sound insulation was flaking off so I replaced it.


new insulation

this is how i peeled away the plastic from the sticky side






used the bmw to pull the engine into place

used the bmw to pull the engine into place 2 also removal of rear ypipe before fitting the engine

 

I noticed a boost leak out of the right side actuator so instead of just replacing them, I decided to get my turbos rebuilt as well. I went with Gpop Shop. They did a nice job. The price was around $1400 with the forge actuators with stock springs. They look so nice and new. Probably should have done this when the engine was out, but it's not to difficult of a job to replace.

 

So, I took my car off the road for the winter as it has never seen salt. I pulled the transmission because the fluid was leaking out of the gear selector. Unfortunately, I didn't know this was a thing or that it was leaking when I had the engine and trans out last year. So out it came again. All the synchros still look pointy. I was 50/50 on building the transmission with GT2RS 1/3. I bought a cup shifter, bracket, seals and bushings. I am undecided on putting in a wavetrac at the moment.

I've never had a problem with the second gear popout and was thinking about getting a Gbox detent.

My transaxle has a 1/2 and 3/4 in marker on the inside case. I am wondering if that is factory or if it has been rebuilt before.


Sanded down a large adjustable to 40.5mm, heated the nut and hammered the wrench counter clockwise.

reverse/5/6th gears top case

mid case gears

mid case gears

mid case gears

mid case gears