For those using MOTONS, what settting are you using for the track (compression and rebound) ?

Springs are 750/850.....

Thanks

 

Spidey

I would not take the settings of anyone as a reference except if they are driving a car with similar alignment settings, weight and same track.. It all depends on the way you drive.

Don't start with middle settings, go full hard or full soft in both settings, and take it from there with one change at a time, both front and rear. It takes a lot of time and knowledge of your car to develop the right feel. Not many people can do this, so I would not worry much, the more you drive and experiment (with an AX22 ) the better you will know your car. I have the canisters inside the cabin, it makes it easier somewhat, the front ones are easily accessible as well. My spring rates are stiffer though.

Directionally, I would set it up as hard as you can for compression and as soft as you can for rebound. You have to test and tune.

If the track is bumpy, setting too high a compression will make your car difficult to drive, setting it too soft will not give your tire good grip/contact with the road however. Set the hardest you can possibly have without the car being too harsh. Go to full stiff compression and back off until you feel the car "comfortable" to drive, meaning not too nervous.
With rebound I would start with full soft and increase the stiffness gradually until you feel the car settled properly when going over rough pavement (bumpy)..Softer rebound will improve corner exit speed..

 

Jean: Thanks for the input.

I've only had it for 3 days and am trying different settings. Obviously with road conditions in N.Cal (very bad ), hard to gauge what the track setting needs to be. Although its amazing that you can feel the difference in the adjustment immediately (+ 1 stiffer).

Do you have to keep front and rear at the same settings ?

 

Welcome.
Not at all, they are hardly ever the same on my car.

For the street, I tend to put them at full soft, both compression and rebound for comfort.. If the roads have multiple little bumps, you might feel like "bump steer" if you go full soft rebound however, and might have the rear unsettled a bit.

Whatever you feel more comfortable and safe for driving basically, on the track it is a different story of course. Lot of testing needs to be done. They are great shocks however.

 

If this is a turbo for starters, you may find that the car is not going to turn in to well with only a 100lbs spread front to rear on your springs. If you plan to drive this car much on the streets, I would soften the front rather than stiffen the rear. I'm guessing these are the club sports and not the racing Motons? Check with the person you bought them from and if they don't know the best starting point, call Lex at Moton back in Atlanta, he has a ton of experience with these shocks on turbo cars and he'll be able to give you a very good starting point. Again, if you stay with the springs you currently have, you'll likely find the car wanting a ton of rebound in the rear to get initial turn in but, using the dampers to over ride the springs generally isn't a good idea. Another critical adjustment is the canister pressure. They usually set them at about 175 lbs from the factory (always in full droop) I don't know if you have tender springs but you'll most likely want to have the pressures more around 250 in the rear and 220 in the front. This simply preloads the springs for better transitioning ... don't make the common mistake thinking that the increased pressure will change the spring rate. As the other guys said though... it takes lots of testing to find out exactly what you want for yourself and your car. Everyone has different taste and styles. Also, if you do some research you might find this multi page article that Koni engineers wrote some years back about start the car at full soft and bringing the compression up just on the rear then going to the front doing the same then setting them back to zero then doing the same with the rebound then doing both and it really helps you understand what happens when you change one verses the other. Hope you find that helpful

 

Cary: Thanks for the advise (for Moton Clubsport). Yes, its a 996 Turbo and in fact will be taking it to the track tomorrow (Thunderhill Raceway).

Not sure how much I'll be able to tune the suspension but one of the reasons I installed the Moton Clubsport is the ability to do quick compression/rebound setting changes in between the driving sessions.

As far as springs go, I'll need a lot of seat time at the track and driving other cars that have different spring rates to evalute the difference.

 

if you drive on street at all, you spring rate for front is way too much. whomever sold you the motons really should set it up, meaning go with you to the track, you drive he ride shot gun and see how you control the car and what your style of driving is. preferably with somesort of data gathering system, else you are simply driving in the dark.

 

I do appologize guys, this is the EVO 'aggressive' kit and the spread is actually 200 pounds. In other words 650/850 and yes with tender springs as well. We obviously set them up neutral as per Lex's requests and then aas Spidey does more and more track time we'll dial them in. This is a good baseline since every single person that has these has them set up _differently_ for their own personal needs.

As a baseline we use:
front pressure 185psi
rear pressure 275psi

front rebound 3
front compression 2

rear rebound 3
rear compression 2

Spidey you'll be _very_ able to fine tune this stuff. It's actually so easy. We'll make sure the rear ***** protrude through the carpet for you so you can adjust those as well way easier than pulling up the carpet...

PS There are a lot of Moton distributors (pseudo race teams) that try to sell this stuff on the basis that every "click" is equivalent to 150 pounds of spring rate which as Cary said isn't exactly true even though it can "soften"/"harshen" things up.