Modified OEM Muffler 996TT
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,141
From: CIR PCA Region
Rep Power: 133
Hey guys...
Don't want to scare anyone off from doing this and I absolutely cannot prove anything BUT......I did this mod....then two months later changed my turbos out from stock 16's to the 24/18 deal and......one of my turbos had some blades chewed up.
Like I said, no way to prove anything as I couldn't find any debris.......I'm just sayin'.......
Don't want to scare anyone off from doing this and I absolutely cannot prove anything BUT......I did this mod....then two months later changed my turbos out from stock 16's to the 24/18 deal and......one of my turbos had some blades chewed up.
Like I said, no way to prove anything as I couldn't find any debris.......I'm just sayin'.......
Not impossible. But I bet something else happened..
JB
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,251
Rep Power: 166
Just did this to my car this weekend! Awesome sound! I expected it to be louder, but it was really nice. Much more rich of a sound and you can hear the turbos whistle better! Haven't driven it much to see if there is a noticeable performance difference.
I did the mod myself for less than $25 (I picked up a hole saw and arbor at my local Fastenal right next door to my office...). I just used a bi-metal hole saw with the drill bit taken out. Can get them from Lowes for under $15 (link below). I did 1 3/4" but can go bigger or smaller based on how much louder you want it. 1 3/4 was good, but I would probably want it a little louder...
Only problems I had was the saw got a little dull toward the end, so start both sides before you dull the blade. Basically, put the saw in and hold it against the wall of the pipe as you cut to get a consistent start. Once you break through the pipe on one side, do the other side before you dull the blade too much. Then just use very light pressure or the saw will snag and stop the drill. I had to reverse and go forward several times until I figured out very very light pressure - just let the saw do the work.
After several battery charges all was done! These saws have arbors that will fit into a socket. I put a drill to 1/4" socket converter in my chuck, then put my 10", 1/4" socket extension in then a proper size 1/4" socket to match the saw arbor. That got me more then enough room to get into the pipe.
So for less than $15, you can greatly enhance the sound of your car! Awesome Mod! Thanks to TJW and everyone else!
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...8.0&lpage=none
I did the mod myself for less than $25 (I picked up a hole saw and arbor at my local Fastenal right next door to my office...). I just used a bi-metal hole saw with the drill bit taken out. Can get them from Lowes for under $15 (link below). I did 1 3/4" but can go bigger or smaller based on how much louder you want it. 1 3/4 was good, but I would probably want it a little louder...
Only problems I had was the saw got a little dull toward the end, so start both sides before you dull the blade. Basically, put the saw in and hold it against the wall of the pipe as you cut to get a consistent start. Once you break through the pipe on one side, do the other side before you dull the blade too much. Then just use very light pressure or the saw will snag and stop the drill. I had to reverse and go forward several times until I figured out very very light pressure - just let the saw do the work.
After several battery charges all was done! These saws have arbors that will fit into a socket. I put a drill to 1/4" socket converter in my chuck, then put my 10", 1/4" socket extension in then a proper size 1/4" socket to match the saw arbor. That got me more then enough room to get into the pipe.
So for less than $15, you can greatly enhance the sound of your car! Awesome Mod! Thanks to TJW and everyone else!
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...8.0&lpage=none
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 117
From: Westchester
Rep Power: 24
OEM Muffler Mod
First off, thank you to all you who have started, added, and contributed to this thread. Special thanks to raineycd who helped answer my questions before I dived in over the past two days.
I am proud to say that I am the latest owner of the TJW Mod.
But, not without a few issues. I used a battery power drill with a Rigid 1 1/2 circular blade. Fortunately, I have several batteries. I started on the driver's side and ended going deeper on right side of the pipe than I planned for the first cut. However, this was more of a flat spot for the drill (mistake number #1)
. As I kept drilling the near side easily created a nice semicircular hole, but the far side was not getting the blade due to the angle. So I pushed forward (mistake #2). I eventually got a nice smoothed curved oval hole, but a thin crescent hole on the back of the muffler!
For the passenger side I stayed more to the right and with more experience drilled a perfect curved oval quickly and easily. I was clearly concerned about the hole on the driver's side, but after a quick trip to the local Meineke it is all patched up.
As for the sound, awesome at the low end. A real rumble from 0 - 2500 rpm that is totally new and reminds of my best friend's Dad's Porsche from the early 80s. Not much of difference at higher rpm, but I think I can hear the Turbos much better now. I can't say for sure if there is any noticeable power difference, but other than a quick trip to the muffler shop I got exactly what I wanted for $50.
So, thank you again and appreciate the DIY.
--BM
I am proud to say that I am the latest owner of the TJW Mod.
But, not without a few issues. I used a battery power drill with a Rigid 1 1/2 circular blade. Fortunately, I have several batteries. I started on the driver's side and ended going deeper on right side of the pipe than I planned for the first cut. However, this was more of a flat spot for the drill (mistake number #1)
. As I kept drilling the near side easily created a nice semicircular hole, but the far side was not getting the blade due to the angle. So I pushed forward (mistake #2). I eventually got a nice smoothed curved oval hole, but a thin crescent hole on the back of the muffler! For the passenger side I stayed more to the right and with more experience drilled a perfect curved oval quickly and easily. I was clearly concerned about the hole on the driver's side, but after a quick trip to the local Meineke it is all patched up.As for the sound, awesome at the low end. A real rumble from 0 - 2500 rpm that is totally new and reminds of my best friend's Dad's Porsche from the early 80s. Not much of difference at higher rpm, but I think I can hear the Turbos much better now. I can't say for sure if there is any noticeable power difference, but other than a quick trip to the muffler shop I got exactly what I wanted for $50.
So, thank you again and appreciate the DIY.
--BM
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,251
Rep Power: 166
First off, thank you to all you who have started, added, and contributed to this thread. Special thanks to raineycd who helped answer my questions before I dived in over the past two days.
I am proud to say that I am the latest owner of the TJW Mod.
But, not without a few issues. I used a battery power drill with a Rigid 1 1/2 circular blade. Fortunately, I have several batteries. I started on the driver's side and ended going deeper on right side of the pipe than I planned for the first cut. However, this was more of a flat spot for the drill (mistake number #1). As I kept drilling the near side easily created a nice semicircular hole, but the far side was not getting the blade due to the angle. So I pushed forward (mistake #2). I eventually got a nice smoothed curved oval hole, but a thin crescent hole on the back of the muffler! For the passenger side I stayed more to the right and with more experience drilled a perfect curved oval quickly and easily. I was clearly concerned about the hole on the driver's side, but after a quick trip to the local Meineke it is all patched up.
As for the sound, awesome at the low end. A real rumble from 0 - 2500 rpm that is totally new and reminds of my best friend's Dad's Porsche from the early 80s. Not much of difference at higher rpm, but I think I can hear the Turbos much better now. I can't say for sure if there is any noticeable power difference, but other than a quick trip to the muffler shop I got exactly what I wanted for $50.
So, thank you again and appreciate the DIY.
--BM
I am proud to say that I am the latest owner of the TJW Mod.
But, not without a few issues. I used a battery power drill with a Rigid 1 1/2 circular blade. Fortunately, I have several batteries. I started on the driver's side and ended going deeper on right side of the pipe than I planned for the first cut. However, this was more of a flat spot for the drill (mistake number #1)
. As I kept drilling the near side easily created a nice semicircular hole, but the far side was not getting the blade due to the angle. So I pushed forward (mistake #2). I eventually got a nice smoothed curved oval hole, but a thin crescent hole on the back of the muffler! For the passenger side I stayed more to the right and with more experience drilled a perfect curved oval quickly and easily. I was clearly concerned about the hole on the driver's side, but after a quick trip to the local Meineke it is all patched up.As for the sound, awesome at the low end. A real rumble from 0 - 2500 rpm that is totally new and reminds of my best friend's Dad's Porsche from the early 80s. Not much of difference at higher rpm, but I think I can hear the Turbos much better now. I can't say for sure if there is any noticeable power difference, but other than a quick trip to the muffler shop I got exactly what I wanted for $50.
So, thank you again and appreciate the DIY.
--BM
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Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 85
From: portland, or
Rep Power: 25
I did this last week with the ridgid 1.5 inch hole saw with the center bit taken out.
I used a plastic PVC pipe that fit in the tail pipe and and wood shims to hold it in place. The hole saw fit perfectly in the center and this kept the saw straight and made it very easy, it actually cut through like butter so I went slow at the end and then just used pliers to pull the last part off.
The sound is better, slightly louder at idle but similar at wot. I am currently awaiting my speedtech 60mm but I got bored so did this.
I used a plastic PVC pipe that fit in the tail pipe and and wood shims to hold it in place. The hole saw fit perfectly in the center and this kept the saw straight and made it very easy, it actually cut through like butter so I went slow at the end and then just used pliers to pull the last part off.
The sound is better, slightly louder at idle but similar at wot. I am currently awaiting my speedtech 60mm but I got bored so did this.
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3
From: OR
Rep Power: 0
Dudes! What an awesome thread. I just read it all in one sitting (I had my knee scoped today so I've been doing a lot of reading). I've been seriously trying to figure out how to get an aftermarket exhaust on my car but this will achieve 75% of what I want for the fraction of the cost. I'm emailing my mechanic tomorrow to get the TJW done. Thanks to all!!
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 221
From: Western Kentucky
Rep Power: 31
I was just getting ready to pull the trigger on a Europipe Stage 1. Given the low cost of trying this out, i am planning on trying it first. Wouldn't mind hearing one first but thats the price I pay for living in western kentucky! Thanks for all of the information!
Banned
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 20
From: calif
Rep Power: 0
do you still have ur x50 exhaust?
jimR
so calif
03 x50 tip
jjrho@roadrunner.com
(didn't think it would just post at the end....was trying to reply to someone with a modified x50 exhaust for sale, one with baffles taken out, on page 6 or 8 or somewhere there.... )
jimR
so calif
03 x50 tip
jjrho@roadrunner.com
(didn't think it would just post at the end....was trying to reply to someone with a modified x50 exhaust for sale, one with baffles taken out, on page 6 or 8 or somewhere there.... )
Last edited by kc2ab; May 26, 2009 at 02:03 AM. Reason: too vague, to whom it's addressed....
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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 203
From: Dallas TX
Rep Power: 35
+1 on the 100 cell cat mod here. Took me about 4 hours total. My butt-dyno wasn't calibrated, so I have no clue on the gains.
My next step will be to work on the internal baffling. Does anyone have a higher resolution photo of the internals of this muffler?
My next step will be to work on the internal baffling. Does anyone have a higher resolution photo of the internals of this muffler?
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 20
From: calif
Rep Power: 0
drilling difficulty
well, got a 1/2 inch metal drill bit that's about 16" long at lowes, and i tried to drill but the drill bit wouldn't bite...couldn't get started.... bit end wandering all over the place....
i was thinking of drilling 2 1/2" holes...at 1/2 " increments....
i like the idea of using a ship/pvc pipe, etc..
oh, and i WD40ed the bolt and couldn't loosen the twin tip of the exh pipe either....
any other suggestions on getting this done at home?
brought the car to a garage locally and couldn't drive on the ramp... too sharp of an angle for the car....
jim R
03 x50 twin tip stock exh - needs some holes put in....
i was thinking of drilling 2 1/2" holes...at 1/2 " increments....
i like the idea of using a ship/pvc pipe, etc..
oh, and i WD40ed the bolt and couldn't loosen the twin tip of the exh pipe either....
any other suggestions on getting this done at home?
brought the car to a garage locally and couldn't drive on the ramp... too sharp of an angle for the car....
jim R
03 x50 twin tip stock exh - needs some holes put in....