cltuch replacement recommendations
clutch replacement recommendations
Will be replacing clutch for an '02 C4S at 50,000 miles (have throw-out bearing noise) -- would appreciate recommendations/experience both as to brand (SPEC, Sachs, etc.) and type (what's gained by going to a Stage 2 or 3 clutch?).
As a baseline, Suncoast has the factory replacement kit for $500 (http://www.suncoastparts.com/product/996clutchkit.html?Category_Code=996Trans).
While the car is aggressively set up (PSS9 on lowest setting, GT-3 sways and links, etc.), I just drive it on the streets/country roads, and do not track it.
I do like having good feel at engagement (as opposed to rigid on-off jerkiness) so as to modulate smooth starts, and don't mind more pedal weight -- greater durability is also a significant plus.
My mechanic will also be doing LN Engineering IMS upgrade and RMS while in there -- anything else worth doing or particularly cost-effective to do?
Thanks for your help!
As a baseline, Suncoast has the factory replacement kit for $500 (http://www.suncoastparts.com/product/996clutchkit.html?Category_Code=996Trans).
While the car is aggressively set up (PSS9 on lowest setting, GT-3 sways and links, etc.), I just drive it on the streets/country roads, and do not track it.
I do like having good feel at engagement (as opposed to rigid on-off jerkiness) so as to modulate smooth starts, and don't mind more pedal weight -- greater durability is also a significant plus.
My mechanic will also be doing LN Engineering IMS upgrade and RMS while in there -- anything else worth doing or particularly cost-effective to do?
Thanks for your help!
If you do not track the car or do not have any engine power upgrades, the original setup is more than adequate. As far as the lwfw, they are noisy and take a bit of practice. There is also anecdotal evidence that the lack of viscous damping relative to the dual mass flywheel can exacerbate the problem associated with the RMS. These M96 engines have the flywheel cantilevered out pretty far from the last bearing journal. See Jake Raby's write up on Flat Six Innovations relating to engine failures and the light weight fly wheels. Check the Air oil separator and oil cooler as well whilst the tranny is out. Oh, and by the way, get the car on the track, you will never know where your cars limits are unless you put it there. Skid pads are an excellent practice exercise as well as autocross.These cars are a total blast to drive at or near their limit, you just need to know where that is. This will make you a better driver on the street as well.
James Greer
James Greer
+3 on the stock set up. I bought mine from Suncoast as well via Ryan and couldn't be happier. And my 03 996 C4S is twin turbo'd. The stock set up works just fine!
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If your are in there, particularly if you have to take off the flywheel (which may need replacing and lists for about $900) do the LN IMS bearing upgrade, $600 for parts, another hour in labor and a priceless amount of relief from worries, IMHO.
I'm planning a clutch replacement this fall/winter and I'm going with stock clutch, a couple extra parts while I'm in there and the LN IMS and probably a RMS too. Piece of mind with 72k miles on a 99 C2. The only thing I think I'm worried about is "streching" the flywheel bolts?
I don't think, for how I use my car, I'd get the added benefit of a LWFW or Spec clutch kit. My .02
I don't think, for how I use my car, I'd get the added benefit of a LWFW or Spec clutch kit. My .02
New flywheel bolts are about $35 at the dealer. You tighten them to a certain torque (I forget it right now but could look it up) then use a torque angle gauge to turn them a set number of degrees. Easy to due and a torque angle gauge can be bought for less than $20.
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