Superseded Convertible top motor installation Question
Superseded Convertible top motor installation Question
Hey guys I know there are a bunch of posts about convertible top issues. I have searched through all of them and cant seem to find anything near my issue I am having. I have a 99 996 cabriolet that is in need of a new lid motor. I have removed old motor that had part # 996.624.122.00, apparently this motor has been superseded by a new motor part # 996-561-933-01. My question is this new motor needs a support bracket, new micro switch with alternate mounting holes and 4 studs but cant figure out how they are mounting support bracket or motor to drive system.. I got the micro switch bracket mounted but cannot figure out how the support bracket and studs work with mount the new motor to gear drive. Has anyone replaced the motor with this new setup? If so can you tell me how it all mounts together? I am stumped as the new support bracket has now where to mount with my current stock setup. I have called Porsche and they are no help. Pelican Parts are where the parts were bought and they have no idea how installation for this setup goes as well only that these are the superseded parts that are needed to replaced existing discontinued motor. Thanks for any help you can give me.
Upgraded Clamshell Motor Installation
I realize this thread is a couple years old, but I've just gone through this process. I did buy the 5 parts (motor, potentiometer, studs, microswitch and bracket) and had to do my own fiddling to determine how to get it installed. I do have some insights for you that might be best explained with pictures and a phone conversation.
The most important task is cutting off the old electric mounting bracket from the master bracket that also holds the hydraulic pump. Cutting it off involved first taking the master bracket off the rear firewall and detaching the hydraulic pump, before using a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel, since a hacksaw would leave too much metal. You need a flat surface for this new bracket. The new bracket is then attached to where the old bracket was. I used 3 x 6mm carriage bolts (local Ace Hardware Store had them), because I wanted the heads trapped and not rotating. It's fun drilling square holes!
The hole mess of motor, potentiometer, bracket and studs actually get attached to the black plastic assembly that has the pushrods to move the clamshell. The sequence of assembly is: attach new microswitch to black assembly (now you have something to attach the studs); thread the 2 studs to the microswitch bracket; slide on the motor assembly (note the motor assembly only gets inserted onto one of the studs; the other stud is outside the motor). Here's where it gets tricky, especially if you have large hands. The two studs need to be inserted into the new bracket and affixed with the two nuts. In my case, I had actually already mounted the new bracket on the master bracket which was removed from the rear firewall. Very tight space for the bottom 6mm bolt and nut. It might make more sense to mount the bare new bracket to the master bracket first, then attach the complete assembly to the car's rear firewall. I'm just not sure if you can then get to the two nuts to attach the studs. Might be too inaccessible. I was able to get to the bottom 6mm nut using a socket, short extension, flex joint and longer extension to my ratchet wrench.
Hope this was not too confusing. Let me know if you want to chat, or if you have insights to share after 2 years.
The most important task is cutting off the old electric mounting bracket from the master bracket that also holds the hydraulic pump. Cutting it off involved first taking the master bracket off the rear firewall and detaching the hydraulic pump, before using a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel, since a hacksaw would leave too much metal. You need a flat surface for this new bracket. The new bracket is then attached to where the old bracket was. I used 3 x 6mm carriage bolts (local Ace Hardware Store had them), because I wanted the heads trapped and not rotating. It's fun drilling square holes!
The hole mess of motor, potentiometer, bracket and studs actually get attached to the black plastic assembly that has the pushrods to move the clamshell. The sequence of assembly is: attach new microswitch to black assembly (now you have something to attach the studs); thread the 2 studs to the microswitch bracket; slide on the motor assembly (note the motor assembly only gets inserted onto one of the studs; the other stud is outside the motor). Here's where it gets tricky, especially if you have large hands. The two studs need to be inserted into the new bracket and affixed with the two nuts. In my case, I had actually already mounted the new bracket on the master bracket which was removed from the rear firewall. Very tight space for the bottom 6mm bolt and nut. It might make more sense to mount the bare new bracket to the master bracket first, then attach the complete assembly to the car's rear firewall. I'm just not sure if you can then get to the two nuts to attach the studs. Might be too inaccessible. I was able to get to the bottom 6mm nut using a socket, short extension, flex joint and longer extension to my ratchet wrench.
Hope this was not too confusing. Let me know if you want to chat, or if you have insights to share after 2 years.
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teflon_jones
996 Turbo / GT2
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Oct 27, 2012 09:41 AM




