had a good long conversation with Todd and they have not experienced any links popping out if installed in the orientation he outlined above. Todd mentioned that the angle in which it's installed in the last photo makes the drop links prime to pop out. He's done this lots of times according to him.

Taret, TRG, TPC and RSS all make nice links. I think the TRGs are the best.

Wow, thanks guys. What an interesting thread; I've never seen this info posted/mentioned before.

My installer (Lucent in Los Angeles) did show me how the stock drop links, particularly the rear, twist into very contorted positions particularly when you use the extreme soft or extreme hard setting. This is why IMO it's just better to use after market drop links with their metallic heim joint. Much more robust and very, ummm, PRETTY.

Now I have to have a look in my car and see how the fronts are done with the Tarett.

just spoke to Todd via PM and his shop does not change the front sway bars on the 997TT. They stay with the OE. Hence, the orientation of the drop links will be different since the stock front sway holes align differently vs aftermarket.

Thanks Neil, that's crucial information. So Todd is saying the front-only position applies to OEM sway bar only??

(For those not familiar with this, it's a 3-dimensional space so it's hard to understand but take a look underneath your car the next time it's up on the rack, then everything we are talking about will be easier to understand.
The drop link connects the sway bar to the coilover, and since the front coilover moves around (I think - anyone please correct me as needed. ) when you steer, the space-interaction between the 2 changes. Depending on which hole of the sway bar you use, the drop link will have to be install accordingly so that the connection is solid, and force on one side is properly transmitted to the other.
The after-market sway has 3 holes in general. The middle hole is easy but the extreme soft and hard hole may require the drop link to twist into very awkward position, hence after-market drop link, which has much better articulation than the OEM, besides being much more robust.)

Again, thanks for the help but I am pretty sure the drop links are on the proper sides. You can see in my first photo that my link is even labeled "L" (for left). It sounds like you and Neil have worked out the answer...

Thanks, so the drop link orientation may depend on which sway bars are installed? And the solutions include:

Again, thanks everyone!

(So Todd is saying the front-only position applies to OEM sway bar only??)

yes Can. I switched them earlier today and it still looks the same IMO. I'm using the middle setting on the RSS sways up front. The joint(driver's side) gets stressed when you turn the wheel all the way to the right. At this angle, the drop link looks prime to pop out. I will just reverse them back tomorrow. Only took 20mins.

When these wear out, will just replace them to either RSS or Tarett.

This is interesting I'll have to look into this because I replaced my drop links three times already. They dont pop out but the front suspension creaks like a rickety old boat.

Yes, I must clarify my statements and say that they apply to the use of the OE swaybar. We don't do a lot of front sways here, but do a lot of rear sways (to dial out understeer).

Adjustable front bars could throw the angle of the Bilstein link off enough that no matter which side you install them from, they can be overstressed and will pop. They were designed for stock swaybar geometry.

Well, there must be some history of them failing as mine did and I KNOW they were installed correctly since Todd and boys did them

In all honesty, we could have made this same mistake during install. We did not realize the potential for issue until after we did yours.

Drop me a PM and we'll get another set on the way to you.

In order to clear up confusion, I whipped together some basic graphics.

PLEASE NOTE THAT THE IMAGES BELOW APPLY TO THE OE FRONT SWAYBAR ONLY.


First, here is a graphic showing the drop link installed from the front of the car, with the threaded stud pointing towards the rear of the car. This is a side view. With the steering wheel straight, notice the 90 degree angle between the drop link shaft and the stud. This allows for equal maximum movement of the stud/ball joint from lock to lock of the steering wheel:




Now, below is the same side view, but with the drop link installed from the rear of the shock, stud pointing towards the front of the car. Notice that the angle between the drop link and stud is no longer 90 degrees, meaning that movement in one direction is already compromised. When the steering wheel is turned, the stud/ball joint runs out of pivoting room prematurely in that direction and binds up. Eventually, this can lead to breakage of the drop link assembly:




Once again, this assumes OE swaybar geometry. With aftermarket sways, the lower anchor point of the drop link where it attaches to the sway can be in a different location, affecting that angle between stud and link rod. The trick is to ensure as close to a neutral position (90 degrees) between stud and drop link rod with the steering wheel in straight position. If you are unable to do this with the Bilstein links, as they were designed for the OE swaybar, then you may want to invest in adjustable drop links that allow you to achieve this proper geometry.

Hope this clarifies.

thanks Todd. Makes perfect sense.

FYI - TPC does not make one for the Turbos. Only for RWD Pcars.

here are TRG's drop links. http://www.theracersgroup.com/shop/997.php

According to Peter at TRG, their links are curved to clear the coilovers and do not bind when the wheel is turned all the way to the right or left. I believe the RSS and Taretts are straight.