Don't make me beat you with my EEA stapler.

 

Can, at this point, I am so frick'n confused by this that I honestly can't remember! lol...
And I've learned in the time that I've been here...Gene is usually right.

 

LOL. 6speed = the great equalizer and the only place where room turnover time doesn't matter.

Bob, yes, when I look back at old posts, remarkably "eclou" is usually right, AND a couple of years ahead of everyone else.

 

Sure, they are meant to be adjusted. Re. memory, I have my own to worry about, so you have to keep track of your own accuracy!

 

The Tarett link fine should work fine with the stiff setting, at least with GMG and GT3 sway bar. If you truly want to try, come and look with the installer while the car is on the lift and see exactly why it can't be -- we've learned that even the best installer like Farnbacher Loles needs supervision! Call Tarett afterwards and ask for suggestion, they'll send you different washers if needed -- Tarett has near 100% "customer happiness" rating for a reason.

See picture below, the Tarett comes with different thicknesses for the cone washers, and by using different combination/position, and different thickness of cone washers, you should be able to connect with an excellent straight "line." My tuner did. Remember: All connections are not the same, you want the straightest line, and the activation/contact point to be as close to the target as possible to prevent bending (in the example below, the thick cone washer pushes the contact point outwards needlessly and was subsequently replaced).

One word of warning based on my **limited** experience so far (anyone corrects as needed): The 997 does **NOT** seem to like increased stiffness in the rear, be it stiff sway or real stiff spring. Another person on rennteam and I are probably the first 2 to play around with this on 997 Turbo, and independently, we came to the conclusion that stiff setting of rear sway, especially with metallic joint drop link like Tarett, etc., makes car unusually bouncy and uncomfortable for daily drives. So we both left the rear at medium, and front at either soft or medium.

 

oh gawd, another one! i'd be careful though, mac might be forced to retaliate with his big X-ray gun! I'm glad to see that we've all finally learn to play in the sandbox together.

 

After confirmation that my installer forgot to install the all so important OEM "washers", I decided to pull the wheels off and see if the my drop links were installed correctly... To be honest I still am not certain after looking at the posted pics & diagrams posted so I went ahead and made a short video with my iphone in hopes the experts here can tell me if they are or if I need to take the car back once again.

I also still hear a popping sound while driving up the driveway with the steering wheel turned all the way so just a bit paranoid. And maybe a dumb question, but are the coils normally loose like this when the wheels are off

 

your dlinks are installed incorrectly to the sway bar. They should be on the outer end(closer to the wheel) of the sway bar. The noise you hear may be the sways hitting the control arm when the steering wheel is in the locked position(turned all the way to the right or left).

Once you correct this, the noise should be gone.

 

The arrow points to what Neil is talking about...it should be on the other side.

 

Alex, did you know this screw is loose? Or was the photo taken during your setup/install?

 

WTF? is this such a difficult install that so many shops are getting this wrong?

 

LOL & thanks for the chuckle. Installation errors occur across ALL components, be it ECU, suspension, or exhaust. Sometimes the error is not even error, as we are mixing and matching components not anticipated by the manufacturers and no one could cover all the possibilities. This forum is somewhat suspension-aware and Bilstein centric; that's why we are dissecting all issues to minute details and have become knowledgeable, and that's why we are here so much. "Problems" is the price you pay for modding your car, and we keep doing it despite of the risk because this is the only way any car could then become "perfect." :-) This is true for all 911; the guys on GT3 or GT2 forum mod theirs just as much.

If you look enough, there will be "stories" with Motron, JRZ, KW, with exhaust, with ECU tune. You will hear about exhaust tip that flies of, ECU tune that got screwed up, hardware that's not tightened causing disaster.

Moral of the story: Use the best and most experienced installer, educate yourself by staying on on 6speed so you could double check your best and most experienced tuner if/when necessary. People -- me, you, our installer -- are liable to make mistake once in a while in our lives, unfortunately.

 

So basically driver side needs to be swapped with passenger side? Or does it need to flip upside down?

Just want to get my facts straight before I call the installer again

 

C4 - just call me to discuss. 650-743-8866

 

Just in reply to the original post. (didnt read all the details)

But.....
i just had custom, billet aluminum links made. Adjustable on either side, top and bottom, stronger then it ever needs to be, slight bend/kink to allow for ZERO interference with ANY simple little thing you can think of....

ill snap some pic sooner then later.


on a side note, the B16s are 'OK' at the very best. High speed (125+) turns/banking/sweepers NO MATTER what i try. the rear of the car is NOT planted. I blame this on the valving, that is involved with this damptronic, in my opinion, junk.

If its going to the track, its going on a trailer (99.9% of the time)... why not JRZ or Moton that suka?


/rant