Bilstein B16 Damptronics Drop (aka WEAK) Links
#31
08-14-2009, 10:29 AM
Wow Todd, thanks for making so succinct what I struggled to describe with words. 
To me the take-home lesson is the positional & space relationship between the hole
on the sway and hole on coilover dictates how the installation is done. From your very nice diagram (thanks for taking the time, I sure will repost this in my Bilstein thread), one could imagine if there are two more holes on that sway, the one at the extreme positions may need an after-market drop link with their better "articulation ability" -- RSS for RSS bar but TRG and Tarett have been out the longest and would be my top two choices for others, to work effectively, or to work at all.
Posts by pro's like AWE and TRG are what make 6speedonline unique. Thanks.
To me the take-home lesson is the positional & space relationship between the hole
on the sway and hole on coilover dictates how the installation is done. From your very nice diagram (thanks for taking the time, I sure will repost this in my Bilstein thread), one could imagine if there are two more holes on that sway, the one at the extreme positions may need an after-market drop link with their better "articulation ability" -- RSS for RSS bar but TRG and Tarett have been out the longest and would be my top two choices for others, to work effectively, or to work at all.Posts by pro's like AWE and TRG are what make 6speedonline unique. Thanks.
In order to clear up confusion, I whipped together some basic graphics.
PLEASE NOTE THAT THE IMAGES BELOW APPLY TO THE OE FRONT SWAYBAR ONLY.
First, here is a graphic showing the drop link installed from the front of the car, with the threaded stud pointing towards the rear of the car. This is a side view. With the steering wheel straight, notice the 90 degree angle between the drop link shaft and the stud. This allows for equal maximum movement of the stud/ball joint from lock to lock of the steering wheel:
Now, below is the same side view, but with the drop link installed from the rear of the shock, stud pointing towards the front of the car. Notice that the angle between the drop link and stud is no longer 90 degrees, meaning that movement in one direction is already compromised. When the steering wheel is turned, the stud/ball joint runs out of pivoting room prematurely in that direction and binds up. Eventually, this can lead to breakage of the drop link assembly:
Once again, this assumes OE swaybar geometry. With aftermarket sways, the lower anchor point of the drop link where it attaches to the sway can be in a different location, affecting that angle between stud and link rod. The trick is to ensure as close to a neutral position (90 degrees) between stud and drop link rod with the steering wheel in straight position. If you are unable to do this with the Bilstein links, as they were designed for the OE swaybar, then you may want to invest in adjustable drop links that allow you to achieve this proper geometry.
Hope this clarifies.
PLEASE NOTE THAT THE IMAGES BELOW APPLY TO THE OE FRONT SWAYBAR ONLY.
First, here is a graphic showing the drop link installed from the front of the car, with the threaded stud pointing towards the rear of the car. This is a side view. With the steering wheel straight, notice the 90 degree angle between the drop link shaft and the stud. This allows for equal maximum movement of the stud/ball joint from lock to lock of the steering wheel:
Now, below is the same side view, but with the drop link installed from the rear of the shock, stud pointing towards the front of the car. Notice that the angle between the drop link and stud is no longer 90 degrees, meaning that movement in one direction is already compromised. When the steering wheel is turned, the stud/ball joint runs out of pivoting room prematurely in that direction and binds up. Eventually, this can lead to breakage of the drop link assembly:
Once again, this assumes OE swaybar geometry. With aftermarket sways, the lower anchor point of the drop link where it attaches to the sway can be in a different location, affecting that angle between stud and link rod. The trick is to ensure as close to a neutral position (90 degrees) between stud and drop link rod with the steering wheel in straight position. If you are unable to do this with the Bilstein links, as they were designed for the OE swaybar, then you may want to invest in adjustable drop links that allow you to achieve this proper geometry.
Hope this clarifies.
Last edited by cannga; 08-14-2009 at 10:40 AM.
#32
08-14-2009, 10:45 AM
Correction, they are curved to allow added clearance of the axles. Especially importanted when steering is turned lock to lock and the suspension moves through its arc.
That link is to our old site. Below is our new one.
Use this link: http://www.nexternal.com/trgparts/Product3923
That link is to our old site. Below is our new one.
Use this link: http://www.nexternal.com/trgparts/Product3923
Last edited by cannga; 08-14-2009 at 10:52 AM.
#33
08-14-2009, 11:07 AM
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 1,253
Rep Power: 142 
Well, thanks to RSS, SharkWerks and everyone else for all the help. The TRG drop links look great but I have RSS sway bars so I just went with RSS. I called RSS about 2:00 Wednesday and they had the drop links at my door at 10:26 AM on Thursday. For what it is worth, the RSS drop links are also curved and seem to be of good quality.
The car is at the dealer for the installation this morning. We will see what Bilstein has to say when they get yet another broken set of drop links returned. There is a rumor that the Bilstein drop links may have quietly been upgraded on the B16's now being shipped.
The car is at the dealer for the installation this morning. We will see what Bilstein has to say when they get yet another broken set of drop links returned. There is a rumor that the Bilstein drop links may have quietly been upgraded on the B16's now being shipped.
#34
08-14-2009, 01:49 PM
I just received my RSS dlinks today and will be installing them tonight. I spoke to Alex at Sharkwerks and he did mention that the recent B16s come with different dlinks. I'll post pics of the new RSS dlinks.
#36
08-14-2009, 08:40 PM
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 1,253
Rep Power: 142
So the RSS drop links are installed...
My broken Bilstein
The new RSS drop link
A look from the inside of the wheel well outward, you can see the previous mounting point (hint: the hole is where the Bilsteins used to be):
Looking from the front towards the back:
Ready for...
My broken Bilstein
The new RSS drop link
A look from the inside of the wheel well outward, you can see the previous mounting point (hint: the hole is where the Bilsteins used to be):
Looking from the front towards the back:
Ready for...
#37
08-14-2009, 10:43 PM
Scott - thanks for posting these. Most helpful. Looks like the tech mounted the bottom part of the dlink to the outer sideof the sway bar. The Bstein links were mounted on the inner side.
Do you know if the tech adjusted/tighten the length once the top part was attached?
Do you know if the tech adjusted/tighten the length once the top part was attached?
#38
08-14-2009, 11:00 PM
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 1,253
Rep Power: 142
I am not sure when the length was adjusted. As far as the mounting goes, they put the car up on the alignment rack and turned the steering wheel from lock to lock and chose the location that provided the most clearance.
#39
08-15-2009, 08:20 AM
sparkhill & Neil,
If possible, please give your impression of after-market drop link versus stock. I like to see other viewpoints to compare and confirm my own. (Which is, pro's: more planted, less rubbery/bouncy; con's: more road noise, stiffer ride. The rear drop link in particular could make ride very harsh on the full stiff setting. I did not feel any significant change in understeer/oversteer behavior, nor any significant change in side to side roll - which surprised me a little bit. )
I've always wondered how "correct" my impression is because at the time of the installation, I didn't have the Bilstein for a long time yet. In addition, amazingly enough there was no post I could find that describes the effect of the drop link by itself, so I didn't know what parameters to concentrate on for the before and after comparison. TIA.
sparkhill, have fun at the track and drive safely!
Neil,
I have no direct experience and obviously you are much more skillful with cars than I am, but I would think starting length would be same as the Bilstein drop link, and first install one side already tightened. The other, remaining side is where you would adjust the length such that there is no load on the sway bar at rest (this is the reason why after-market drop link is necessary for corner balancing). If I am not helping, please ignore me. 
If possible, please give your impression of after-market drop link versus stock. I like to see other viewpoints to compare and confirm my own. (Which is, pro's: more planted, less rubbery/bouncy; con's: more road noise, stiffer ride. The rear drop link in particular could make ride very harsh on the full stiff setting. I did not feel any significant change in understeer/oversteer behavior, nor any significant change in side to side roll - which surprised me a little bit. )
I've always wondered how "correct" my impression is because at the time of the installation, I didn't have the Bilstein for a long time yet. In addition, amazingly enough there was no post I could find that describes the effect of the drop link by itself, so I didn't know what parameters to concentrate on for the before and after comparison. TIA.
sparkhill, have fun at the track and drive safely!
Neil,
I have no direct experience and obviously you are much more skillful with cars than I am, but I would think starting length would be same as the Bilstein drop link, and first install one side already tightened. The other, remaining side is where you would adjust the length such that there is no load on the sway bar at rest (this is the reason why after-market drop link is necessary for corner balancing). If I am not helping, please ignore me.
Last edited by cannga; 08-15-2009 at 08:23 AM.
#40
08-31-2009, 05:08 PM
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 1,253
Rep Power: 142
The definative answer has arrived... Alex, Dan and James at SharkWerks worked with Bryan at RSS, to come up with an adjustable front drop link replacement for the Bilstein B16's. No more crappy Bilstein drop links, no more converted 996TT drop links, no more install questions. Everything you need to know is right here:
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...oil-overs.html
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...oil-overs.html
#41
08-31-2009, 05:12 PM
The definative answer has arrived... Alex, Dan and James at SharkWerks worked with Bryan at RSS, to come up with an adjustable front drop link replacement for the Bilstein B16's. No more crappy Bilstein drop links, no more converted 996TT drop links, no more install questions. Everything you need to know is right here:
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...oil-overs.html
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...oil-overs.html
#44
08-31-2009, 09:27 PM
Mr Motons:PHe's got the Moton Club Sports... No stopping KA 997TT
