Review of Cargraphic Loud exhaust & an audiophile's guide :-) to exhaust auditioning.
With some people buzzing about 1 year later delayed CEL's, I still hesitate a bit about getting an aftermarket exhaust, even though I've had them on every other car I've owned. Not sure there is really a "right" one either.
And always love to thread jack, especially when I just got back from the NY Audio Show. I'm running Jeff Rowland Concerto preamp with JR monoblocks and Aerial 7B speakers, fed from a PS Audio Perfect Wave DAC on all digital files - all uncompressed, of course! I also see the Aragon amp sitting in the front, center channel duty perhaps?
And always love to thread jack, especially when I just got back from the NY Audio Show. I'm running Jeff Rowland Concerto preamp with JR monoblocks and Aerial 7B speakers, fed from a PS Audio Perfect Wave DAC on all digital files - all uncompressed, of course! I also see the Aragon amp sitting in the front, center channel duty perhaps?
Hello fellow audiophile :-),
OUtstanding system. I've always enjoyed the Aerial sound, very smooth and full body. I remember first encounter some time in the 90's with the engineer/owner giving personal demo at LA Audio Show. Believe it was the 10T (?); the speakers sound fantastic.
There are Theta Casablanca owners who speak of great synergy between Aerial speakers and Theta processor and from description, the sound is beautiful. I am tempted!
1. but here it is, i'm sure you've seen or heard of it? but it does work. though i would love to know why my car isn't *ready* when it is..very..
Start engine, idle cold for approx. 2 min, 10 secs.
Accelerate to 20-30 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs.
Accelerate to 40-60 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 15 mins.
Decelerate and come to a stop. Idle in gear* for approx 5 mins.
2. i have now done this twice.. and it is best to keep that damn scan/reader/gizmo tool handy literally
while "resetting" should the need, arise. most important: following this protocol.. do NOT exceed 3k rpm.. or.
Start engine, idle cold for approx. 2 min, 10 secs.
Accelerate to 20-30 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs.
Accelerate to 40-60 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 15 mins.
Decelerate and come to a stop. Idle in gear* for approx 5 mins.
2. i have now done this twice.. and it is best to keep that damn scan/reader/gizmo tool handy literally
while "resetting" should the need, arise. most important: following this protocol.. do NOT exceed 3k rpm.. or.Do you happen to know where this particular protocal come from - how did you come across and decide to use it? Is it known to work for Porsche, is that why you use it?
2. Wow... what happens if you do exceed 3000, does the "readiness" actually disappear? Is it that complicated?
Do you happen to know where this particular protocal come from - how did you come across and decide to use it? Is it known to work for Porsche, is that why you use it?
2. Wow... what happens if you do exceed 3000, does the "readiness" actually disappear? Is it that complicated?
2. Wow... what happens if you do exceed 3000, does the "readiness" actually disappear? Is it that complicated?
so yes, rpm above 3k! at any time will require you to start all over, so idle warmup a cpl minutes then take off and just stay around 2500-2750, and you'd be fine. the hardest part for me, was owing to the fact i had/have an intermittent CEL that pops up without a clear code ( p1101 ) which is MAF and/or TB related, so i was on pins and needles getting the codes to "ready" and RE-testing before that dreaded cel would go on again!.. and therein lies the difficulty.. if you have, or have had a CEL, the obd will read it as "recent" and fail you, then you'll have to do the circular drive bit ( they say you need 100 miles min with NO CELS, but that's not accurate ). it will try anyone's patience. if you DO end up having to go through this? ( given you have c'graphic and tune(?).. ) my advice is to go up to mulholland for a few miles at some odd hour of the day, sans traffic. then get back to the smog test before any spirited/normal driving or it all might revert back. as it was, i left with my "pass"
certificate and got a CEL
within about 10 minutes leaving the test shop. really.
Thanks for the helpful reply. I feel better now that I have your experience and observation stored here on this thread.
I of course am no expert either and am not certain which causes "not ready" alarm, exhaust or tune.
I would add though that the examples that I have seen of "not ready" alarm are very frequently traced back to a tune.
Conversely, the problem that I've seen reporting from exhaust is frequently not of the "not ready" nature, but more of Check Engine Light, from catalytic inefficiency. But these are merely non scientific, anecdotal observations.
My car has been problem free so far with respect to CEL, but the anxiety is there since it could be such a headache to not pass California Smog test. Compulsive me did keep original exhaust and original ECU (my tune is loaded onto a second ECU, my original ECU is stored in a vault :-)), but that would be a last resort.
Thanks to your recommendation I bought an Actron CP9575; I plan to check out my car even though its turn on the California Smog guillotine is not here yet. The thought of not ready light is enough to almost give me chest pain already.
I of course am no expert either and am not certain which causes "not ready" alarm, exhaust or tune.
I would add though that the examples that I have seen of "not ready" alarm are very frequently traced back to a tune.
Conversely, the problem that I've seen reporting from exhaust is frequently not of the "not ready" nature, but more of Check Engine Light, from catalytic inefficiency. But these are merely non scientific, anecdotal observations.
My car has been problem free so far with respect to CEL, but the anxiety is there since it could be such a headache to not pass California Smog test. Compulsive me did keep original exhaust and original ECU (my tune is loaded onto a second ECU, my original ECU is stored in a vault :-)), but that would be a last resort.
Thanks to your recommendation I bought an Actron CP9575; I plan to check out my car even though its turn on the California Smog guillotine is not here yet. The thought of not ready light is enough to almost give me chest pain already.
Last edited by cannga; Apr 20, 2013 at 07:20 PM.
It's the tune, most don't have the readiness codes in place, fvd is the only exception to date. You will either have to flash back to stock or replace the stock ecu. Usually, all those maneuvers are meant for 993tt cars, the 997 ecu runs those steps automatically, worth a try.
GL
GL
Last edited by TT Surgeon; Apr 20, 2013 at 08:57 PM.
) after reflection, i strongly suspect none of this stuff about smog testing will be needed by you.. truth is, i brought my cars particular issue(s) into a place where it may not exist
i'm sure your car will pass with flying colors, and nary a second glance. but if not? you know what to do.in other news, i blew a maf today by pinning my raised 7200 rev limiter
my solace derives from the knowledge that if my car was a 997t, i'd need to replace two of 'em, rather than one. we take our comfort, where we find it 
cheers.
though i am not humbled in the presence of a 997t
Last edited by '02996ttx50; Apr 21, 2013 at 12:41 AM.
I have the cargraphic exhaust on my car and enjoy the exhaust note. Just failed OBD II diagnostics smog check. Secondary Air System Not Ready and Oxygen Sensor not ready. Car was warmed up and passed the Idle Emission Test. Vehicle did not pass the OBD systime check because its OBD system was not ready to test. Exhaust has the 200 cell cats.
. Pheeewww - I am a happy camper! Will post picture and more details later.In the mean time, M3 S3, do you have a follow up to this, for the sake of discussion? Anyone would like to venture a guess why it's a problem here in M3 S3's car? I would guess the ECU tune is causing a problem.
Last edited by cannga; Apr 21, 2013 at 12:25 PM.
(Repost) Pictures as promised. I finally get around to monitor my car's emission with an OBDII scanner and am *very* happy
to report that my GIAC tune and Cargraphic Exhaust combination came out squeaky clean: no code, no check engine light, and the Inspection/Maintenance (IM) Monitors, which check the Emission System, appear to be all ready and willing. No dreaded "Not Ready" alarm or code.
For those not familiar, this is the Actron CP9575, an OBDII scanner that is readily available on ebay/amazon. The scanner is updated over the internet easily to the latest software, and after that it's a simple matter of plugging it in into the OBDII port. The function I was paying attention to was the I/M Monitors, as it appears someone has had some problem with Oxygen Sensor Monitor "not ready," which I think might be related to an ECU tune.

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to report that my GIAC tune and Cargraphic Exhaust combination came out squeaky clean: no code, no check engine light, and the Inspection/Maintenance (IM) Monitors, which check the Emission System, appear to be all ready and willing. No dreaded "Not Ready" alarm or code. For those not familiar, this is the Actron CP9575, an OBDII scanner that is readily available on ebay/amazon. The scanner is updated over the internet easily to the latest software, and after that it's a simple matter of plugging it in into the OBDII port. The function I was paying attention to was the I/M Monitors, as it appears someone has had some problem with Oxygen Sensor Monitor "not ready," which I think might be related to an ECU tune.
Did you ever tried Techart? I have it in my car and the noise is very clean, loud & 0 but 0 drone but (there is always a BUT) it's not TOO loud and I like it loud (I'm coming from Vipers & Corvettes)
I'm getting EP1 this week but I'm not sure yet if I'm going to like it better than TA
I had fabspeed version 2 & 911tune but they didn't work out for me.
I'm getting EP1 this week but I'm not sure yet if I'm going to like it better than TA
I had fabspeed version 2 & 911tune but they didn't work out for me.
Last edited by LeoLambo; Jun 10, 2013 at 11:38 PM.
Did you ever tried Techart? I have it in my car and the noise is very clean, loud & 0 but 0 drone but (there is always a BUT) it's not TOO loud and I like it loud (I'm coming from Vipers & Corvettes)
I'm getting EP1 this week but I'm not sure yet if I'm going to like it better than TA
I had fabspeed version 2 & 911tune but they didn't work out for me.
I'm getting EP1 this week but I'm not sure yet if I'm going to like it better than TA
I had fabspeed version 2 & 911tune but they didn't work out for me.
I have awe gen 1 and love it. Very deep and unusual sound, brings out the character of the flat 6 IMO.
. EP is an excellent exhaust well liked by many, but it is not the one if loud and aggressive is what you are looking for.First, IMHO you should try to post on this forum to see if other people on the forum have the following exhausts for you to listen too. Don't buy any more exhaust and don't trust web postings until you have listened to a few *in person*.
*If* American V8/V10 sound is what you are after, then it is an absolute must that you try to find a GMG exhaust to listen too. This exhaust will give you a good ear cleaning and is quite satisfying, assuming you like the loundness. It is too loud for me and probably too loud for a daily driver but might be the perfect choice for you.
One notch below GMG with respect to loudness and aggression, but has been around a long time with a cult following
is of course my exhaust, Cargraphic. Both Cargraphic and GMG have what I would call a "full bodied" sound with "big" low frequency purr and rumbling at low throttle. The shift to screaming mechanical sound occurs at WOT.Multiple other choices as well. FVD is another interesting one. A lot of the American exhausts "I haven't listened too, but I am sure some will give you the loudness you want.
The key is to listen first, in person. Just post on this forum to find owners.
BTW, during auditioning, the opening loud sound when you first turn on the engine doesn't count :-). What's important is you in the car driving, with windows up (how I/we drive 90% of the time) and windows down (the other 10%). If the sound in these 2 situations are not loud and aggressive enough for you, then it's not the right exhaust.
The exhaust sound when you are INSIDE the car as driver is much more important than when you are OUTSIDE as bystander. Outside sound always sounds better but as a driver, obviously you won't hear it. Outside sound's main usage is for parking lot demo's and impressive web sound clips; fun, but not that relevant to the driving experience.
Last edited by cannga; Jun 11, 2013 at 11:07 AM.





