With Bilsteins I have 26 in front and 26.75 rear

 

Thanks and noted on the AM rims Slawek. Although from what i recall HRE's offset changes are minimal and are mainly to accomodate for changes in rim widths. Correct me if im wrong here. Btw do you know your rim widths and offsets?

OK Thanks Chris. Im interested why you actually went for tarretts and cup arms if you were able to achieve that much neg without them. Also ,how are they set? All adjustment from top? Or do the arms share with some shims? You may know i currently have 997 cup arms on with shims (very little) so im interested to find out all the facts on the diff seal vulnerabilities when a car is lowered and so on. When P did my last alignment they reset the shims and the tower positions and assured me everything is perfectly fine with the diff but after hearing Slawek and GT TT's account i really want to find all the facts just to be sure. Im doing another alignment soon as well. Also what rims are you running? Widths, offsets too f you have them.

 

The wheels are 19" HRE Competition C20 three piece they were made specifically for my car front 19/8.5 rears 19/11.5 ,don't know the off- set(there are no numbers on wheels) but after installation the difference was very noticeable. On attached pictures car had stock suspension

 

No worries Slawek. Offset doesn't affect camber settings anyway but i was curious what your rims had. Your set up and ride height look good though going by the pics. Looks close to stock ride height. Rear 3/4 shot is a good one.

 

No shims, but I have the adjustability should I need it. I may move to some motons soon anyway. 1.9 was the max, just from the top, problem is that the alignment is constantly shifted with DD street driving, bc it's maxed out. The LCAs allow one to use both the top and bottom for alignment adjustments, neither at it's max. I think a good max for the stock setup with springs would be -1.5-1.7 and -1.0 without springs.
My rims are champion rg5s with sport cups.
I recently drove a car with motons, difference was amazing, waaaaaaay better than bilstens, or my fav gmg spring arrangement.

 

So why the 996 arms then? Did they say how the length of those compares with the stock arms? Anyway, maybe as youve got the arms on you should consider sharing between top and bottom. The setting really shouldn't be changing from movement unless there is a weakness in the design of the top mounts.. Maybe these tarretts don't hold on as well as the oem gt3 top mounts? For 1.9 neg and being able to get 1 deg neg on top without the tarretts you really only needed to find an extra .9 on the bottom. Thats really not much at all. On the motons, how do they ride? If stock ride is rated say 10 where would you place the motons for street DD use? I assume the motons don't have the dual setting?

 

Every HRE wheel theoretically could be differently spec'd.

Our recommended configuration usually are flush with the fenders and tend to be more aggressive than the OEM fitment. But it all depends on our customers requests.

If you want to find out, the serial number information is on the backpad. You will need to pull the wheel off to see the numbers.

PM me if you have any questions about your particular wheel.

 

The 996 LCAs are a lot less expensive than the 997 parts. They are nearly identical, that's why most shops use the 996 parts at this time.

 

bingo, they are waaaay cheaper. the taret part is an adapter on the bottom so you can use stock trailing arms.
I got -1 with all stock configuration . Anything more needed springs. I plan to let the top/bottom share the load.

 

Guys, here are pictures of car after Bilstein installed

 

I transferred mine off my last S so i only paid the once plus if you buy them off P Motor Sports they are way cheaper than buying the same 997gt3 ones off P parts. Much cheaper pricing structure! Im pretty sure i only paid @ 800 for the pair over here and i was told they are the same thing.
So the taret doesn't go on the top of the strut?
Looks nice. An avatar change perhaps?