Engine Limits vs Power -- Sharing Some Knowledge
The choice of what to do with rods is entirely yours. Many people simply choose to take the risk and wait until failure occurs. That is not an unreasonable choice to make, especially if when failure occurs it simply results in requiring the replacement of rods. The reason some tuners choose to upgrade as a pre-emptive measure is that they just don't want the higher risk of failure in the first place.
It's obviously true that as one increases power the risks of engine failure increase but there are so many mitigating circumstances that contribute to failure that a blanket statement such as "vastly reduced life-expectancy" is overstated, imo. Sure everything can be attributed to "pressure" but it's how the "pressure" is applied that counts. Mitigating risk is the key for a long and healthy motor with big power.
Do you think it is an accident that when Porsche built the GT2 RS based on the 997 GT2 engine, that they increased the power by 90hp, but the torque by only 16lb ft?
Porsche like every other engine builder knows that torque kills rods that's why they limit it in all their turbo-based road-cars.
Good points, Guy.
Torque=pressure. The only way it can be mitigated is by either not making it in the first place, or by using it less.
Do you think it is an accident that when Porsche built the GT2 RS based on the 997 GT2 engine, that they increased the power by 90hp, but the torque by only 16lb ft?
Porsche like every other engine builder knows that torque kills rods that's why they limit it in all their turbo-based road-cars.
Do you think it is an accident that when Porsche built the GT2 RS based on the 997 GT2 engine, that they increased the power by 90hp, but the torque by only 16lb ft?
Porsche like every other engine builder knows that torque kills rods that's why they limit it in all their turbo-based road-cars.
, I have a fumy feeling Porsche still left a little room for improvment in turbo engine.
Chad,
I spoke to Neil today regarding the post you posted he wrote. He told me that more detailed research needs to be done to be sure what exactly is going on. He asked if someone could comment whether or not the Ignition is retarded under acceleration. He said it is common to quickly retard the Ignition under heavy acceleration to stop the huge spikes in Torque from "breaking" things and detonating the mixture. He called this Transiant Retard. He expected the factory to be doing this, but maybe in the re tunes this function is not done. As the engine sperformance is increased with all of the mods etc, this function needs to be changed to go along with the increase in Cylinder pressure. He told me the increase in Cylinder pressure happens very quickly and often it is quicker than the pressure wave reaching the outer gases where the signs of results of detonation are seen. This may be why the Piston shows no signs of detonation, although it was probably present. The Rods bent under pressure and once bent, the engines compression ratio lowered some and everything appears to be good with the excpetion of the bent rods.
He stressed that Ignition control and Ignition itself along with Knock is something alot of people do not understand.
His quote " many are in the risk business, risking their engine and investment for more performance without the knowledge to understand what they are driving".
I spoke to Neil today regarding the post you posted he wrote. He told me that more detailed research needs to be done to be sure what exactly is going on. He asked if someone could comment whether or not the Ignition is retarded under acceleration. He said it is common to quickly retard the Ignition under heavy acceleration to stop the huge spikes in Torque from "breaking" things and detonating the mixture. He called this Transiant Retard. He expected the factory to be doing this, but maybe in the re tunes this function is not done. As the engine sperformance is increased with all of the mods etc, this function needs to be changed to go along with the increase in Cylinder pressure. He told me the increase in Cylinder pressure happens very quickly and often it is quicker than the pressure wave reaching the outer gases where the signs of results of detonation are seen. This may be why the Piston shows no signs of detonation, although it was probably present. The Rods bent under pressure and once bent, the engines compression ratio lowered some and everything appears to be good with the excpetion of the bent rods.
He stressed that Ignition control and Ignition itself along with Knock is something alot of people do not understand.
His quote " many are in the risk business, risking their engine and investment for more performance without the knowledge to understand what they are driving".
The post was made along with a follow up suggestion. No need to argue any points.
I have tracked mine many,many times.On my 6th or 7th set of rotors since I have owned it in 6 years and 16K miles of use. This engine build has 3-4K miles on it, 20 Mile runs are on this build and 500 track miles. Plenty of runs to ball games and Starbucks as well. I recently upgraded to E85 but the engine wasnt opened, just an inj swap...
This is a great thread, and a lot of good food for thought.
IMHO, increases in low rpm torque can be an issue because the rod is submitted to those greater pressures for a longer period of time at lower rpm.
This would explain why tuners tend to limit lower rpm torque increases, and then bring it back in at higher rpm.
I know overall torque levels can cause rod failure, but can it also be a function of time spent at peak torque, and not just maximum torque levels?
Is this an incorrect thought process?
Maybe some of you guys who have greater technical knowledge can comment on this.
Perhaps I am reiterating what has already been said, but in a slightly different manner.
Certainly knock could cause these rod failures, but I think it would show itself with a very close inspection of pistons and especially spark plugs.
Were I to modify a factory TT engine, I would be very inclined to limit maximum torque output based on these and others findings in regard to rod failures.
Tom, I am curious how much cost is involved to replace the factory rods prior to experiencing an issue like this?
Thanks in advance.
IMHO, increases in low rpm torque can be an issue because the rod is submitted to those greater pressures for a longer period of time at lower rpm.
This would explain why tuners tend to limit lower rpm torque increases, and then bring it back in at higher rpm.
I know overall torque levels can cause rod failure, but can it also be a function of time spent at peak torque, and not just maximum torque levels?
Is this an incorrect thought process?
Maybe some of you guys who have greater technical knowledge can comment on this.
Perhaps I am reiterating what has already been said, but in a slightly different manner.
Certainly knock could cause these rod failures, but I think it would show itself with a very close inspection of pistons and especially spark plugs.
Were I to modify a factory TT engine, I would be very inclined to limit maximum torque output based on these and others findings in regard to rod failures.
Tom, I am curious how much cost is involved to replace the factory rods prior to experiencing an issue like this?
Thanks in advance.
Honestly...the biggest cost in a job like this is not the rods themselves. You'll spend somewhere between $250-$300 (EACH) for a good set of rods. The expensive part is the labor to have your engine removed, torn down, rebuilt, re-assembled, and re-installed. It's a very labor intensive process unfortunately. Then the issue becomes "well if I'm in the engine anyway, why not do some head work, etc?" Again parts for some of these upgrades are not that costly...it's really the labor you're paying the most for.
Last edited by Tom@Champion; May 4, 2011 at 07:57 AM.
Honestly...the biggest cost in a job like this is not the rods themselves. You'll spend somewhere between $250-$300 for a good set of rods. The expensive part is the labor to have your engine removed, torn down, rebuilt, re-assembled, and re-installed. It's a very labor intensive process unfortunately. Then the issue becomes "well if I'm in the engine anyway, why not do some head work, etc?" Again parts for some of these upgrades are not that costly...it's really the labor you're paying the most for.
That is what I was asking, but I should have been more specific about the hours involved to replace them.
Labor time...you're looking at roughly 50-70 hours for a tear down and rebuild...that's just time spent on the engine itself, and barring any other upgrades you do while you're in there.
Good information.
Thank you.
A fairly substantial cost, but I think money well spent if one is looking to really push the engine for the bigger power.
This is a great thread, and a lot of good food for thought.
IMHO, increases in low rpm torque can be an issue because the rod is submitted to those greater pressures for a longer period of time at lower rpm.
This would explain why tuners tend to limit lower rpm torque increases, and then bring it back in at higher rpm.
I know overall torque levels can cause rod failure, but can it also be a function of time spent at peak torque, and not just maximum torque levels?
Is this an incorrect thought process?
IMHO, increases in low rpm torque can be an issue because the rod is submitted to those greater pressures for a longer period of time at lower rpm.
This would explain why tuners tend to limit lower rpm torque increases, and then bring it back in at higher rpm.
I know overall torque levels can cause rod failure, but can it also be a function of time spent at peak torque, and not just maximum torque levels?
Is this an incorrect thought process?
Last edited by TTdude; May 4, 2011 at 10:01 AM.
I think your right on. Basically, most of what is being discussed has to do with fatique phenomenon, a well known issue with materials under going repeated stress. Google S-N curves and you will get a ton of information. Each metal and geometry will generally have a fatique limit that corresponds to the number of cycles. The greater the stress the less cycles it will take to fatique if you're above the fatique limit. Certain metals like aluminum and magnesium do not have a fatique limit, meaning that the material will eventually fail no matter what after so many cycles (it could be a very very long time). That's why they grounded all those SW Boeing 737s because of metal fatique due to take-offs and landings (cycles). With steel rods, there likely exists a fatique factor that if you stay below, it will NEVER fail no matter how many stress cycles it encounters. For the internals parts of a motor, one would really have to know the fatique limits for each component, piston, rods, crank, etc...I'm sure Porsche knows these numbers. So if I ever plan to jack up the power on my car and keep stock motor, I know that I will probably be on borrowed time. Hopefully, within that time, I will upgrade the various components so I can enjoy a longer cycle time before failure.
But, if I can recall, a component that fails due to fatigue doesn't bend or deform, it just breaks, and the morfology of the breaking surfaces is almost "always the same".
This, to me, means that bent rods are due to the rod being put under a greater stress than the max tensile strength, even for a small period of time.
Correct me if I'm wrong.
It's obviously true that as one increases power the risks of engine failure increase but there are so many mitigating circumstances that contribute to failure that a blanket statement such as "vastly reduced life-expectancy" is overstated, imo. Sure everything can be attributed to "pressure" but it's how the "pressure" is applied that counts. Mitigating risk is the key for a long and healthy motor with big power. That's why you need to get a tuner who really knows what he's doing. Milou's motor, if nothing peripheral breaks down, will run a vastly long time, imho.
Thanks for your respectful reading and replies.
The choice of what to do with rods is entirely yours. Many people simply choose to take the risk and wait until failure occurs. That is not an unreasonable choice to make, especially if when failure occurs it simply results in requiring the replacement of rods. The reason some tuners choose to upgrade as a pre-emptive measure is that they just don't want the higher risk of failure in the first place.
The choice of what to do with rods is entirely yours. Many people simply choose to take the risk and wait until failure occurs. That is not an unreasonable choice to make, especially if when failure occurs it simply results in requiring the replacement of rods. The reason some tuners choose to upgrade as a pre-emptive measure is that they just don't want the higher risk of failure in the first place.
Torque=pressure. The only way it can be mitigated is by either not making it in the first place, or by using it less. Do you think it is an accident that when Porsche built the GT2 RS based on the 997 GT2 engine, that they increased the power by 90hp, but the torque by only 16lb ft?

Honestly...the biggest cost in a job like this is not the rods themselves. You'll spend somewhere between $250-$300 (EACH) for a good set of rods. The expensive part is the labor to have your engine removed, torn down, rebuilt, re-assembled, and re-installed. It's a very labor intensive process unfortunately. Then the issue becomes "well if I'm in the engine anyway, why not do some head work, etc?" Again parts for some of these upgrades are not that costly...it's really the labor you're paying the most for.
. Btw do you mind me asking whats your charge out rate per hour your way?
Last edited by speed21; May 4, 2011 at 06:11 PM.







