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48K Service and Fuel Filter

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Old 06-08-2013, 08:39 PM
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48K Service and Fuel Filter

Just snagged the 48K maintenance parts kit from Suncoast.

Wrapped up some easy stuff this afternoon: wiper blades, engine air filter, cabin air filter. I planned to move on to the fuel filter next, followed by an oil change. Drive belt and spark plugs (torture, I know) are likely next week.

Currently stopped at the fuel filter replacement... anyone have any 997.1-specific instructions to share for replacing the fuel filter?

I have searched endlessly but instructions for changing the fuel filter for our 997.1 Turbos simply cannot be found.

If you can find it, you've out-internetted me --congratulations, please share

I found a good DIY for the 996 TT but the fuel filter setup in our 997.1 TTs is a little different.

There is some sort of bleeder valve pipe fitted to the filter, with it's own connection coupler that I didn't clearly see how to disconnect (unlike the other coupler which simply gets it's tab pushed in).

Other than disconnecting this additional coupler, is there anything else that needs to be done?

I read that you can de-pressurize the fuel system to prevent fuel from spewing out once you start removing the filter by pulling the fuel pump fuse while the engine is running and allowing it to stall out. It was mentioned that this was fuse C4 for 996 cars, but this doesn't apply to the 997 Turbo which appears to have fuses D1 and D2 as fuel pump relay 1 / fuel pump relay 2.

I don't mind taking my car to a shop to get the fuel pump swapped if I can't find any reassuring information here, as I may have to flat bed the car in anyway if I give up on next week's spark plug job

 
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Last edited by djben; 06-08-2013 at 08:51 PM.
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Old 06-09-2013, 12:09 PM
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Remove fuses you mentioned and start motor for 10 sec to relieve fuel pressure. There's another fuel plug connection (besides the one in your photo, on top I believe) you also need to remove. Remove the ground strap as well. Release locking clip and pull out filter. Open screw type clamp and R&R filter.
 
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Old 06-09-2013, 03:01 PM
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Wrapped it up this afternoon.

It is otherwise the same as the 996 GT2 DIY I linked above, with the exception of the bleeder valve and different fuses.

I figured out how to remove the coupler that goes to the bleeder valve pipe - instead of just one tab you push in to detach it like the coupler illustrated in the 996 GT2 diy, you have two tabs on both the top and bottom of the coupler that need to be pushed in.

The bleeder valve cap on the pipe also might be loose, so tighten it a bit before you start removing the filter. You can probably guess how I know...

Getting to the tab that you need to pull in order to remove the filter from the coolant reservoir is tricky, but I ended up wiggling my right hand back there and when I pressed on the tab properly I could feel it instantly loosen and I proceeded to pull the fuel filter out.

It takes a little bit of wriggling to get it out and in, but it's otherwise a pretty simple job. Turned the key to the position that starts the electric system in the car for about 10 seconds, then started ignition and the car started and idled fine on the second try. Ran back to check for leaks, saw none... moving on to oil change after a little drive to get the engine warmed up.

Considering there aren't many 997 TTs hitting 48K miles that call for the fuel filter change, I'm pretty sure this is the first record of a 997TT fuel filter change hitting the internet
 

Last edited by djben; 06-09-2013 at 03:09 PM.
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Old 06-09-2013, 09:53 PM
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congrats Ben. And Dave, wow...you are an armchair mechanic, lol.

I have the parts and was considering doing the fuel filter myself but the thought of "kaboom" just doesn't make me feel warm and fuzzy so I'll get the shop to do it while they are doing other stuff. How long did it take, Ben?
 
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Old 06-10-2013, 01:19 AM
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Originally Posted by The Bogg View Post
congrats Ben. And Dave, wow...you are an armchair mechanic, lol.

I have the parts and was considering doing the fuel filter myself but the thought of "kaboom" just doesn't make me feel warm and fuzzy so I'll get the shop to do it while they are doing other stuff. How long did it take, Ben?
You're absolute right Boggster! I did flag a few hours of chair time watching my motor come together.
 
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Old 06-10-2013, 06:32 AM
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I suggest you to change even the drivetrain oil
 
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Old 06-10-2013, 07:56 AM
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I did the following based on time, not milage: fuel pump, belt, and all wheel drive controller oil (turbo has 37k miles).
 
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Old 06-10-2013, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by drsullivan View Post
I did the following based on time, not milage: fuel pump, belt, and all wheel drive controller oil (turbo has 37k miles).
that's my plan too, mine has about 30k miles. What is all wheel drive controller oil???? Is it differential fluid, transmission fluid, other fluid??? I started a thread asking about what fluids need to be changed but no hits unfortunately.
 
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Old 06-10-2013, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by TTdude View Post
You're absolute right Boggster! I did flag a few hours of chair time watching my motor come together.
lol, that's what I figured.
 
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Old 06-10-2013, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by The Bogg View Post
congrats Ben. And Dave, wow...you are an armchair mechanic, lol.

I have the parts and was considering doing the fuel filter myself but the thought of "kaboom" just doesn't make me feel warm and fuzzy so I'll get the shop to do it while they are doing other stuff. How long did it take, Ben?
Combine reading through the previously linked 996 DIY with what is here, it could be done in 30-60 minutes. Honestly the trickiest part was the damn clip to loosen the filter and figuring out the coupler on the bleeder valve pipe.

Tools are simple -- 2x 19mm wrench (I had a 19mm and a 3/4"), phillips head screwdriver and hands (ideally with 5 fingers):



Old filter, new filter:



Put this together to give you a better idea of what to do in the 997 filter:



Once the filter is out, note the orientation of the mount and bleeder pipe so you can line things up properly when you put the new filter together. You don't have to be exact, just close enough. Now use your wrenches to remove the pipe. Once the nut breaks just a little you can just de-thread it by hand:



You'll use the phillips head screwdriver to loosen the clamp and transfer the mount to the new filter. Do not re-tighten too much yet as you will probably need to turn the fuel filter around in it's mount assembly to line everything up properly once it is in the car.

Just do everything in reverse now and you're all set

I did not have torque specs for the nut that attaches the bleeder pipe to the fuel filter. I hand-tightened it with the wrenches and it happened to be that both nuts lined up perfectly flush when I was done, as they were with the original filter.

I am not sure about typical protocol for working with the fuel system, but I did this job outside. I only started on it after the car was left sitting cold all night and I disconnected the battery. I ended up having a bit of fuel escape from the first coupler, so when I was finished I let the car sit for a few hours with the trunk lid open before I connected the battery again and started the car. As mentioned previously I checked for leaks right away and then again after a short drive.
 
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Old 06-10-2013, 01:15 PM
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Great info! Tnx
 
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Old 06-10-2013, 02:39 PM
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Thanks Ben! You are the diy instruction king! I used your diy posts to install the Vivid DRLs. Rep points coming your way.
 
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Old 06-10-2013, 03:11 PM
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[QUOTE=The Bogg;3868613]that's my plan too, mine has about 30k miles. What is all wheel drive controller oil???? Is it differential fluid, transmission fluid, other fluid??? I started a thread asking about what fluids need to be changed but no hits unfortunately. [/QUOTE

I think it's the front transmission fluid, but don't quote me.
 
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Old 06-10-2013, 04:16 PM
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Do you plan to open the fuel filter to see if replacing it was worthwhile? Interesting exercise.
 
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Old 06-10-2013, 05:13 PM
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Great job!!
 
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