SPEC clutch for 997TT?
SPEC clutch for 997TT?
Has anyone experienced Spec clutch on their 997TT? I have a good deal to have this clutch(barely used) installed at my local Porsche shop. I searched already but no result for 997TT. However I have seen many happy customers for 996TT though. Oh, it is stage 2+ kit.
996/997 same ****. if youre getting a good deal on it, go for it..
otherwise i would highly suggest the E R P triple carbon clutch...
one of my fav mods in the 7 years ive owned a turbo
pdk-like launches all day !!!
otherwise i would highly suggest the E R P triple carbon clutch...
one of my fav mods in the 7 years ive owned a turbo
pdk-like launches all day !!!
how much whp do you have, and what other mods do you have to the transmission? I'm trying to decide what to do for the transmission to hold the power I'll have (about 1000whp) but not be absolutely awful to drive.
500 at the moment, i havent built my motor yet.
ive got a factory gt2 rs transmission.
the clutch is good for 1100lbs of torque
i have it, eddie bello, prodigymb, tim, and i think the guys at USP use it as well..
the clutch is designed to be slipped HARD...
its actually better for the driveline, because there is no shock...
your transmission can hold the power no problem, the factory 997 turbo gearbox is stronger than a 996 gearbox, and those guys can hold 1000 wheel all day.
the gt2 bos is (supposedly) the strongest gearbox porsche has ever made. i think i read on there that 1-3 are something like 100-150% stronger than factory 997 !!!
i have a gt2 slave conversion, i run OEM delvac tranny oil.
ive got a cup car differential in it. no issues ever.
the good think about this clutch (im being told), is that it will pretty much last me forever..
ive had it on my car since may, and ive probably launched it hard as ***** atleast an average of once per day. no issues, clutch still looks like new.
ive got a factory gt2 rs transmission.
the clutch is good for 1100lbs of torque
i have it, eddie bello, prodigymb, tim, and i think the guys at USP use it as well..
the clutch is designed to be slipped HARD...
its actually better for the driveline, because there is no shock...
your transmission can hold the power no problem, the factory 997 turbo gearbox is stronger than a 996 gearbox, and those guys can hold 1000 wheel all day.
the gt2 bos is (supposedly) the strongest gearbox porsche has ever made. i think i read on there that 1-3 are something like 100-150% stronger than factory 997 !!!
i have a gt2 slave conversion, i run OEM delvac tranny oil.
ive got a cup car differential in it. no issues ever.
the good think about this clutch (im being told), is that it will pretty much last me forever..
ive had it on my car since may, and ive probably launched it hard as ***** atleast an average of once per day. no issues, clutch still looks like new.
I have had the stage 2+ in my car for about 4 years and many track days. No issues as all. I originally had the stage 3+ with an unsprung hub and hated it. The guys at SPEC gave good customer support to me. I would do business with them again.
Let us know what you think after you do your install.
Let us know what you think after you do your install.
500 at the moment, i havent built my motor yet.
ive got a factory gt2 rs transmission.
the clutch is good for 1100lbs of torque
i have it, eddie bello, prodigymb, tim, and i think the guys at USP use it as well..
the clutch is designed to be slipped HARD...
its actually better for the driveline, because there is no shock...
your transmission can hold the power no problem, the factory 997 turbo gearbox is stronger than a 996 gearbox, and those guys can hold 1000 wheel all day.
the gt2 bos is (supposedly) the strongest gearbox porsche has ever made. i think i read on there that 1-3 are something like 100-150% stronger than factory 997 !!!
i have a gt2 slave conversion, i run OEM delvac tranny oil.
ive got a cup car differential in it. no issues ever.
the good think about this clutch (im being told), is that it will pretty much last me forever..
ive had it on my car since may, and ive probably launched it hard as ***** atleast an average of once per day. no issues, clutch still looks like new.
ive got a factory gt2 rs transmission.
the clutch is good for 1100lbs of torque
i have it, eddie bello, prodigymb, tim, and i think the guys at USP use it as well..
the clutch is designed to be slipped HARD...
its actually better for the driveline, because there is no shock...
your transmission can hold the power no problem, the factory 997 turbo gearbox is stronger than a 996 gearbox, and those guys can hold 1000 wheel all day.
the gt2 bos is (supposedly) the strongest gearbox porsche has ever made. i think i read on there that 1-3 are something like 100-150% stronger than factory 997 !!!
i have a gt2 slave conversion, i run OEM delvac tranny oil.
ive got a cup car differential in it. no issues ever.
the good think about this clutch (im being told), is that it will pretty much last me forever..
ive had it on my car since may, and ive probably launched it hard as ***** atleast an average of once per day. no issues, clutch still looks like new.
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in terms of bump and go traffic, its not ideal (if u let off the clutch slowly, and not give throttle, the car jerks until you foot is off the clutch).
engagement point is AMAZING.
its hard for me to put into words how the clutch feels
so... lets say im at a red light and i want to launch the car.. i would rev the motor HIGH (4-5k), and then slowly let the clutch out until i can feel a little bit of bite.. then i MASH the gas, hold it down, and slip the clutch hard... i want to say i slip the clutch til about 10-15mph... sounds crazy right ? it sounds like im burning the clutch and killing it right ?
im not ! this is how this thing is designed to be.. the car just SLING shots fwd because youre not shocking the drivetrain (the car wont jerk, bog or any of that stuff, because youre using the clutch, not the throttle to regulate power)
as far as axles, i already destroyed one by trying to do burnouts... i probably broke it on the 10th+ attempt...
get this clutch man, you will LOVE it, and will probably never need to replace it.
i only have about 6k miles on mine, but i beat the crap out of it, and the clutch discs look like new...
i will try to get a video of a few launches. if the clutch is used properly (slipped and not dumped), there is NO WAY you will EVER break an axle...
(you cant break it because you are suppose to ride the clutch).
engagement point is AMAZING.
its hard for me to put into words how the clutch feels
so... lets say im at a red light and i want to launch the car.. i would rev the motor HIGH (4-5k), and then slowly let the clutch out until i can feel a little bit of bite.. then i MASH the gas, hold it down, and slip the clutch hard... i want to say i slip the clutch til about 10-15mph... sounds crazy right ? it sounds like im burning the clutch and killing it right ?
im not ! this is how this thing is designed to be.. the car just SLING shots fwd because youre not shocking the drivetrain (the car wont jerk, bog or any of that stuff, because youre using the clutch, not the throttle to regulate power)
as far as axles, i already destroyed one by trying to do burnouts... i probably broke it on the 10th+ attempt...
get this clutch man, you will LOVE it, and will probably never need to replace it.
i only have about 6k miles on mine, but i beat the crap out of it, and the clutch discs look like new...
i will try to get a video of a few launches. if the clutch is used properly (slipped and not dumped), there is NO WAY you will EVER break an axle...
(you cant break it because you are suppose to ride the clutch).
in terms of bump and go traffic, its not ideal (if u let off the clutch slowly, and not give throttle, the car jerks until you foot is off the clutch).
engagement point is AMAZING.
its hard for me to put into words how the clutch feels
so... lets say im at a red light and i want to launch the car.. i would rev the motor HIGH (4-5k), and then slowly let the clutch out until i can feel a little bit of bite.. then i MASH the gas, hold it down, and slip the clutch hard... i want to say i slip the clutch til about 10-15mph... sounds crazy right ? it sounds like im burning the clutch and killing it right ?
im not ! this is how this thing is designed to be.. the car just SLING shots fwd because youre not shocking the drivetrain (the car wont jerk, bog or any of that stuff, because youre using the clutch, not the throttle to regulate power)
as far as axles, i already destroyed one by trying to do burnouts... i probably broke it on the 10th+ attempt...
get this clutch man, you will LOVE it, and will probably never need to replace it.
i only have about 6k miles on mine, but i beat the crap out of it, and the clutch discs look like new...
i will try to get a video of a few launches. if the clutch is used properly (slipped and not dumped), there is NO WAY you will EVER break an axle...
(you cant break it because you are suppose to ride the clutch).
engagement point is AMAZING.
its hard for me to put into words how the clutch feels
so... lets say im at a red light and i want to launch the car.. i would rev the motor HIGH (4-5k), and then slowly let the clutch out until i can feel a little bit of bite.. then i MASH the gas, hold it down, and slip the clutch hard... i want to say i slip the clutch til about 10-15mph... sounds crazy right ? it sounds like im burning the clutch and killing it right ?
im not ! this is how this thing is designed to be.. the car just SLING shots fwd because youre not shocking the drivetrain (the car wont jerk, bog or any of that stuff, because youre using the clutch, not the throttle to regulate power)
as far as axles, i already destroyed one by trying to do burnouts... i probably broke it on the 10th+ attempt...
get this clutch man, you will LOVE it, and will probably never need to replace it.
i only have about 6k miles on mine, but i beat the crap out of it, and the clutch discs look like new...
i will try to get a video of a few launches. if the clutch is used properly (slipped and not dumped), there is NO WAY you will EVER break an axle...
(you cant break it because you are suppose to ride the clutch).
yup its better than the tilton.
semi solid motor mounts, (i have rss on mine and i LOVE it), a great feeling short shifter, and a gt2 slave conversion will have you falling in love with your car all over again.
atleast it did for me,
btw, if you do get the clutch and want to sling shot the car from a dig, launch it WITHOUT sport mode. the car will distribute more power to the front wheels, which would allow you to launch at 5-6k without damaging anything.
semi solid motor mounts, (i have rss on mine and i LOVE it), a great feeling short shifter, and a gt2 slave conversion will have you falling in love with your car all over again.
atleast it did for me,
btw, if you do get the clutch and want to sling shot the car from a dig, launch it WITHOUT sport mode. the car will distribute more power to the front wheels, which would allow you to launch at 5-6k without damaging anything.
Elite,
there's no chatter at idle. ive got a steel flywheel (28lbs).. so its not as light as the LWFW's we're use to , but its not as heavy as the factory dual mass.
the only time u would notice a SLIGHT chatter is if the a/c is on, or if you pull over right after a hard drive and the car is cooling itself down. otherwise i'de say chatter isn't issue with their steel flywheel option.
i'de say, get the clutch IF you plan on launching the car , or doing high load pulls (example 5th gear 2.5k rpm and mash the throttle).
if youre not planning on launching the car, i would stick with a sachs 2.5 set up and dual mass flywheel.
there's no chatter at idle. ive got a steel flywheel (28lbs).. so its not as light as the LWFW's we're use to , but its not as heavy as the factory dual mass.
the only time u would notice a SLIGHT chatter is if the a/c is on, or if you pull over right after a hard drive and the car is cooling itself down. otherwise i'de say chatter isn't issue with their steel flywheel option.
i'de say, get the clutch IF you plan on launching the car , or doing high load pulls (example 5th gear 2.5k rpm and mash the throttle).
if youre not planning on launching the car, i would stick with a sachs 2.5 set up and dual mass flywheel.
at what power level though
^its not so much about the power level, its about application.
my car came with a sachs 2.5..
if i launched my car on a sachs how i do the ERP, it would be toast in a week.
the amount of slip these clutches can take is simply not possible with a single disc organic/kevlar clutch like the sachs. (mine was practically toast when we took it out)
the triple carbon clutch is designed to be beat on, the more you slip it, the better it grips.
in fact, to "resurface" the clutches, one has to do a series of FIVE hard launches in 2nd gear just to get the clutches to be perfectly smooth (this takes away judder).
AH-MAZING clutch .
a single disc clutch can not be launched like a triple disc. but for the record, sachs 2.5 is AWESOME for holding power.
so to recap, if you want a clutch that holds power, a sachs 2.5 is plentiful,
if you want a clutch that will let you luanch the car just as hard as a pdk launches, triple disc carbon all the way.
my car came with a sachs 2.5..
if i launched my car on a sachs how i do the ERP, it would be toast in a week.
the amount of slip these clutches can take is simply not possible with a single disc organic/kevlar clutch like the sachs. (mine was practically toast when we took it out)
the triple carbon clutch is designed to be beat on, the more you slip it, the better it grips.
in fact, to "resurface" the clutches, one has to do a series of FIVE hard launches in 2nd gear just to get the clutches to be perfectly smooth (this takes away judder).
AH-MAZING clutch .
a single disc clutch can not be launched like a triple disc. but for the record, sachs 2.5 is AWESOME for holding power.
so to recap, if you want a clutch that holds power, a sachs 2.5 is plentiful,
if you want a clutch that will let you luanch the car just as hard as a pdk launches, triple disc carbon all the way.
i found this on tiltons site..
This clutch lasted a season and a half in the Pro Street Tire Supra (running low 9s) and then another 50 launches in Nero's hardtop (running mid 11s) and still has not been sent back to Tilton for a rebuild. I can easily say that a single disk of reputable brand would have only held maybe one event before needing replacing (keep in mind slipping the clutch through first gear with over 800 whp). The Tilton loves to be slipped.
This clutch is built to last (estimated you can go 5-6 years on the same clutch with only 1-2 inexpensive rebuilds). Those of you with 650+ know that this is far from possible with any standard clutch and flywheel combination. Another thing to note is that you are able to slip the clutch at high horsepower/ high RPM with no problems what so ever, exactly what you need to get those great 60 foots needed to lower your ET. This clutch revs extremely quickly and is very streetable (and quiet at that).
this is what i was trying to explain
This clutch lasted a season and a half in the Pro Street Tire Supra (running low 9s) and then another 50 launches in Nero's hardtop (running mid 11s) and still has not been sent back to Tilton for a rebuild. I can easily say that a single disk of reputable brand would have only held maybe one event before needing replacing (keep in mind slipping the clutch through first gear with over 800 whp). The Tilton loves to be slipped.
This clutch is built to last (estimated you can go 5-6 years on the same clutch with only 1-2 inexpensive rebuilds). Those of you with 650+ know that this is far from possible with any standard clutch and flywheel combination. Another thing to note is that you are able to slip the clutch at high horsepower/ high RPM with no problems what so ever, exactly what you need to get those great 60 foots needed to lower your ET. This clutch revs extremely quickly and is very streetable (and quiet at that).
this is what i was trying to explain






