If your about the do this may want to have a replacement coil pack connector in your tool box I found a broken tab on cylinder 3. when i went to remove it it popped of on its own.
Search forBOSCH Ignition System Plug Sleeve Connector Housing 1928403110 around $6.00, that's an 800% savings from what the dealer charges.
Get the removal tool also if you don't already have one.

 

I always just watch and check, but you should be good lowering until it hits the support.

DC

 

 

Started the car this weekend and looks like my plug and coil job was successful! Thanks again Rock!

 

Thank you for the excellent write ups! I used your tutorial for bumper removal and the plug and coil install and everything went beautifully!

 

Congrats,definitely tough to do on jack stands. I see you replaced the coil packs too, how many miles?
Just did this again for a forum member all the coil packs were cracked.

 

The car just cracked 45k miles. I felt like it was appropriate for the mileage and age of the coil packs.

Working on the ground definitely added another layer of difficulty but overall I really enjoyed the process. I had a great feeling of accomplishment after getting it all back together and feeling that smooth acceleration

 

Again great job,Love the FCP Euro warranty. The coil pack connectors were easy to change one broke on contact pushing up on the boot.

 

Any details on how you changed the connector? Where did you get that tool? The connector underneath the rear bumper broke there it attaches to the body and was wondering how to push the pins out...

 

Takes just a second to remove all (3). use a pick or razor blade tip to open the metal tabs the tool compresses during removal.

 

I just got done doing this on my 08 997tt 6spd, here are some key notes

-Did it in my garage on the floor with jack stands

-I pulled the rear bumper and intercoolers

-I left the exhaust on, made a great spot to leave a light

-The driver side was more difficult than passenger, so I say start on the driver

-I did NOT have to lower the motor at all

-I did NOT have to loosen the turbos or turbo manifolds at all

-Unbolted all of the accessories that bolt onto the turbo compressor cover, VTG solenoid, built
in BOV, black hard inlet pipe

-For the VTG solenoid I did use the long ball shaped allen key with swivel socket to remove the 3 bolts

-On the driver side, I had a friend pull the black inlet pipe back/toward him, he was sitting where the intercooler normally is, which allowed me to reach up from on the ground/underneath and unbolt the coil pack. The rest of the coil pack bolts I was able to reach with long extensions and swivel

-Takes some finagling to slide the coil pack out past everything but it can be done just be patient

-When installing some of the coilpacks that are in a real difficult spot, I would install the coil pack pencil extension onto the new plug first, then wiggle the new coil pack up and into its location and connect it to the pencil extension. Found that much easier to maneuver!

-Do NOT use a screwdriver to unclip the coils, no matter how tempting it may be!! You do not want to break the tabs/clip

*If I were to every buy a bone stock 997 tt again, I would just gather new plugs, coils, intercoolers, ypipe, exhaust, serpentine belt all at once and just install them all together one weekend. Instead I took my car a part more times than I should have in such a short period of time to do all of these.

*Also, if your plan is to keep stock turbos, or go bigger VTG turbos, I would highly consider doing the do88 upgraded air inlet pipes at the same time you do plugs/coils. For me it was the OEM hard black inlet pipe that really made doing the coils a challenge. So would be a perfect time to ditch that crappy pipe, have full access to the difficult coils, and install the much better flowing do88 inlet pipes when the new plugs and coils are wrapped up.

*After doing this, my personal belief is that doing plugs and coils will be so much simpler when my VTG turbos are gone and I go with an externally gated vband turbo setup like GTX3076s or the new G25-660s. Since plugs will become a more routine maintenance item to perform when achieving higher power levels, it is another "pro" to me in making my decisions to ditch VTG turbos and go with a Garrett setup.

 

do you guys use dielectric grease when you install your plugs ? Im replacing my spark plugs now, and when I took them out, i noticed white paste on metal terminal ( pic attached ), isn't this wrong ? . If you do, do you put the grease on the spark plug as well or just boot .. Also do you put aintiseize on the threads ? My old plugs had something on threads ( pic attached ).

 

You can use anti-seize (I don't, I just keep the threads clean), but if you do, you will need to reduce your torque wrench settings by about 20%.

You can use dielectric grease, but just smear it around the inside of the boot. It is more to seal out moisture than anything else.

Ed

 

Great DIY TheRock, thanks; I am usually on Rennlist but it seems more appropriate to post here – anyone have advice on the proper way to “press intake air lines out of the brackets in the engine compartment”? Is this the “compression type/grommet fitting that they push down in to”? It seems they attach to a block of plastic, right after the air line changes from corrugated to smooth, which is then attached to the engine block. Does that come apart or are you supposed to take the whole thing out of the engine block itself? I really don’t want to break this plastic, it looks expensive. Thanks!

 

I did not remove mine there is some slack in it. you have to pinch with 2 fingers for it to let go