Best semi-aggressive alignment settings for the STREET?
#1
Best semi-aggressive alignment settings for the STREET? (GT3 specs on a Turbo S??)
Getting my tires changes soon, so I need to get the alignment checked as well.
It still has the original factory alignment after 13,000 miles.
Can anyone recommend the settings (or provide a link to get settings) for a little more aggressive set-up using stock suspension? I want to get a little more out of how she handles. I drive the car 3-4k miles a year and want to enjoy every minute since I already have a luxury cruiser as my daily driver.
BTW, I think I'm going to try the new Sport Cup 2's.
It still has the original factory alignment after 13,000 miles.
Can anyone recommend the settings (or provide a link to get settings) for a little more aggressive set-up using stock suspension? I want to get a little more out of how she handles. I drive the car 3-4k miles a year and want to enjoy every minute since I already have a luxury cruiser as my daily driver.
BTW, I think I'm going to try the new Sport Cup 2's.
Last edited by CodeBlue911; 02-03-2015 at 01:17 PM.
#4
dang your DPW guys get funding I guess. Hell if I had roads like that I would get a GT3 and daily drive that.
I have to go to spring mountain to enjoy what you get to on a daily basis.
you can try lowering springs that retain all the PASM stuff like a techart. It will look a little more aggressive. There is also a DSC tune for it. https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ck-review.html
I have to go to spring mountain to enjoy what you get to on a daily basis.
you can try lowering springs that retain all the PASM stuff like a techart. It will look a little more aggressive. There is also a DSC tune for it. https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ck-review.html
Last edited by Squat; 02-03-2015 at 09:36 AM. Reason: added link
#5
Been doing some research....
Should I just tell my Porsche mechanic to do the 997 GT3 alignment specs??
I also read it may be better to have more negative camber up front.
Thoughts and input much appreciated.
Should I just tell my Porsche mechanic to do the 997 GT3 alignment specs??
I also read it may be better to have more negative camber up front.
Thoughts and input much appreciated.
#6
The rest of the setting should be in oem spec.
#7
I thought I read somewhere on here that the front camber should be about 0.5 more negative than the rear...???
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#8
No, not true, at least NOT for a mostly street 997 TT. eurotom's response above is "correct," a tried and true alignment that a number of us have used for many years. For further details, click Bilstein thread in my signature; there is a diagram there you could print and give to your tuner.
Last edited by cannga; 02-03-2015 at 07:59 PM.
#9
But before you do any of that, read the most recent thread where you will learn that Porsche set the car up to drive like it does. Learn how to trail brake and drive each corner as it is. Not the same every time. You can try a later apex too. Or you can take it to a track then the desire to drive it like a track car on the road might not be so much.
You can really hurt your self and your car, and OTHERS when you try to "fix" the problems so many amateurs that dont understand the physics behind why a car needs to do what it does. YOU WANT some understeer. Anyone that tells you otherwise needs to be run away from. You fix understeer with correct driving.
You can really hurt your self and your car, and OTHERS when you try to "fix" the problems so many amateurs that dont understand the physics behind why a car needs to do what it does. YOU WANT some understeer. Anyone that tells you otherwise needs to be run away from. You fix understeer with correct driving.
#10
why the tow out in front?
#11
Primarily to improve turn-in response. Not many people talk about this but if if you drive our Turbo back to back against GT3/GT2, besides the soft suspension, the steering response of our Turbo cannot compare: over-assisted and "slow/lazy" in comparison (cruise on freeway and slowly rock the steering back and forth very little bit around straight-ahead point to check this laziness - there is a slight lag that you won't see in GT3). There is not much one could do about this, but one thing possible is ***very very*** slight toe out in front. This is not at all twitchy (I've had it for 5-6 years now), and purely optional. In return the steering response is quicker/more responsive - I absolutely love it.
This is the secret sauce in the alignment that Tom of Lucent, a well known, and very highly recommended, tuner in Southern Cal uses (hope Tom is ok with me sharing it with others ). You could first change the camber, drive a couple of months, then add the slight-toe-out secret sauce :-) and see whether you like the difference. As mentioned, purely optional: https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...red-turbo.html
This is the secret sauce in the alignment that Tom of Lucent, a well known, and very highly recommended, tuner in Southern Cal uses (hope Tom is ok with me sharing it with others ). You could first change the camber, drive a couple of months, then add the slight-toe-out secret sauce :-) and see whether you like the difference. As mentioned, purely optional: https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...red-turbo.html
Last edited by cannga; 02-03-2015 at 08:33 PM.
#12
Great info posted here. Semi-aggressive is somewhat of an oxy moran right?
Your in good hands with Cannga and squats info. I run a more aggressive setup with -3.0 degree up front and am currently looking to increase the rear from -2.3 to -3.0+. I currently have extreme outer tire wear in the rear.
If you don't track your car, you may not want to increase the chamber or toe. When you replaced your last set of tires, I bet you wore out the inner side first. Increasing the chamber will only enhance this problem.
Your in good hands with Cannga and squats info. I run a more aggressive setup with -3.0 degree up front and am currently looking to increase the rear from -2.3 to -3.0+. I currently have extreme outer tire wear in the rear.
If you don't track your car, you may not want to increase the chamber or toe. When you replaced your last set of tires, I bet you wore out the inner side first. Increasing the chamber will only enhance this problem.
#13
But before you do any of that, read the most recent thread where you will learn that Porsche set the car up to drive like it does. Learn how to trail brake and drive each corner as it is. Not the same every time. You can try a later apex too. Or you can take it to a track then the desire to drive it like a track car on the road might not be so much. You can really hurt your self and your car, and OTHERS when you try to "fix" the problems so many amateurs that dont understand the physics behind why a car needs to do what it does. YOU WANT some understeer. Anyone that tells you otherwise needs to be run away from. You fix understeer with correct driving.
I believe the op's goal is a more aggressive street setup. That said going to the max stock negative camber up front which is -1.2 one will still experience understeer.
#14
Track and Street should be very different situations.
For street, we shouldn't be taking every corner for time or speed. I actually knocked 10 seconds off my daily commute with more "toe."
Play with whatever you want but, keep the PSM on and be considerate to other licensed drivers (Yes even in s Prius.)
For street, we shouldn't be taking every corner for time or speed. I actually knocked 10 seconds off my daily commute with more "toe."
Play with whatever you want but, keep the PSM on and be considerate to other licensed drivers (Yes even in s Prius.)
#15
Track and Street should be very different situations. For street, we shouldn't be taking every corner for time or speed. I actually knocked 10 seconds off my daily commute with more "toe." Play with whatever you want but, keep the PSM on and be considerate to other licensed drivers (Yes even in s Prius.)