Blew a Turbo, Whats next?
#76
11-14-2015, 12:10 AM
You should pull both fuel pump fuses and turn the car over until oil pressure builds up a bit first. If turbos are new then there is a break in procedure, if used then off you go. Probably check fluids over after a small run too.
#78
11-14-2015, 03:29 AM
Turbos do not have a break-in procedure. No manufacturer will ever tell you this, but maybe some mechanics/repair techs who want to sound clever...
#79
11-14-2015, 03:34 AM
I was told to break in. Start car and leave to idle for 30 min, drive 500km under .3 bar boost.
I did read numerous forums regarding new turbos, a few people say that as the turbine spins so fast on start up that it is technically run in within a few moments. I chose to stay safe than sorry and just run the 500km...
I did read numerous forums regarding new turbos, a few people say that as the turbine spins so fast on start up that it is technically run in within a few moments. I chose to stay safe than sorry and just run the 500km...
#80
11-14-2015, 01:00 PM
This obviously excludes ball bearing turbos.
With a journal bearing turbo, the idea is a layer of pressurized oil prevents the various surfaces from touching, no amount of metal to metal contact is good under any circumstance. You will not hear a break in procedure from a manufacturer like this, not to mention, idling the car for 30 minutes is not good anyway so they gave you all around bad advice.
With a journal bearing turbo, the idea is a layer of pressurized oil prevents the various surfaces from touching, no amount of metal to metal contact is good under any circumstance. You will not hear a break in procedure from a manufacturer like this, not to mention, idling the car for 30 minutes is not good anyway so they gave you all around bad advice.
#83
11-14-2015, 04:11 PM
If you're still looking for VTG's I have these, which worked perfectly fine before I replaced them with a set of 68s from Champion.
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ml#post4344796
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ml#post4344796
#84
11-14-2015, 05:47 PM
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,315
Rep Power: 132 
Car is back together and runs fine. Did a plug change also.
I will need a new exhaust system. I flushed it out with 10 gallons of Power Purple followed by 20 gallons of water. Still smoking.
I will need a new exhaust system. I flushed it out with 10 gallons of Power Purple followed by 20 gallons of water. Still smoking.
#85
11-15-2015, 08:19 AM
[QUOTE=Steamboat;4419589]
SO I hubby is buying an 09 GT2 and what due diligence in a PPI is needed to identify a turbo problem? Or do they just "blow" without warning?
So can I ask how many miles were on your respective cars when this happened and what other mods were done/how much power were you making?
Bought my car with 8,000 miles and had 18,000 on it when it let go in its second track/road season - probably 20-30 track days later. Only mods were a stage I Evoms tune, maybe 550 hp @ crank, and a few suspension doo-dads. We hypothesized that the impeller retaining nut probably became loose causing the shaft to vibrate and fail but that was just a guess as it could have been many other things. A failed BRV was something we did not consider but that makes sense too. My BRV's were oem at the time, fwiw.
Currently at 44K miles and the past two seasons have, thankfully, been mostly drama free!
Bought my car with 8,000 miles and had 18,000 on it when it let go in its second track/road season - probably 20-30 track days later. Only mods were a stage I Evoms tune, maybe 550 hp @ crank, and a few suspension doo-dads. We hypothesized that the impeller retaining nut probably became loose causing the shaft to vibrate and fail but that was just a guess as it could have been many other things. A failed BRV was something we did not consider but that makes sense too. My BRV's were oem at the time, fwiw.
Currently at 44K miles and the past two seasons have, thankfully, been mostly drama free!
#86
11-15-2015, 09:38 AM
Also, as already stated, "break in" is a procedure that's done with interfaces that have a decent amount of friction between them. In the case of engines, it's really more about seating the rings and micropolishing them while the cross-hatching it still fresh in the cylinder. Turbos do not need break-in....there's simply no such thing, ball-bearing or otherwise. They spin incredibly fast even when they aren't making boost. The turbo compressor RPM also is not linear with boost pressure. It may take 90,000 rpm for the turbo to make 5 psi, and only 100k rpm for it to make 15.
The biggest reason after you finish up to go out and work up to full boost and full throttle is to check for leaks (boost, oil, coolant, etc).
#87
11-18-2015, 10:31 PM
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,315
Rep Power: 132 Depending on how bad it's smoking, that oil will eventually burn out. You need some longer, higher speed pulls to really get that exhaust temp up
Also, as already stated, "break in" is a procedure that's done with interfaces that have a decent amount of friction between them. In the case of engines, it's really more about seating the rings and micropolishing them while the cross-hatching it still fresh in the cylinder. Turbos do not need break-in....there's simply no such thing, ball-bearing or otherwise. They spin incredibly fast even when they aren't making boost. The turbo compressor RPM also is not linear with boost pressure. It may take 90,000 rpm for the turbo to make 5 psi, and only 100k rpm for it to make 15.
The biggest reason after you finish up to go out and work up to full boost and full throttle is to check for leaks (boost, oil, coolant, etc).
Also, as already stated, "break in" is a procedure that's done with interfaces that have a decent amount of friction between them. In the case of engines, it's really more about seating the rings and micropolishing them while the cross-hatching it still fresh in the cylinder. Turbos do not need break-in....there's simply no such thing, ball-bearing or otherwise. They spin incredibly fast even when they aren't making boost. The turbo compressor RPM also is not linear with boost pressure. It may take 90,000 rpm for the turbo to make 5 psi, and only 100k rpm for it to make 15.
The biggest reason after you finish up to go out and work up to full boost and full throttle is to check for leaks (boost, oil, coolant, etc).
Break in would be one thing but, my car is smoking worse than a 85 Cadillac.
I have a few ideas for this coming weekend. If all fails, I'll be back with the stealth stock exhaust until a replacement is built and shipped..
#88
11-23-2015, 10:29 PM
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,315
Rep Power: 132
I hate to post this but, If you dumped a quart or two of oil into your exhaust inlet, how long would it take to burn out? What would be your best polluting method?
Anyone tap out their EP2 or other system cat convertors? If so, any Cels?
If you have a Cel, will the car pull timing or what should I expect other than a "no pass" with emissions.?
Anyone tap out their EP2 or other system cat convertors? If so, any Cels?
If you have a Cel, will the car pull timing or what should I expect other than a "no pass" with emissions.?
#89
11-23-2015, 10:58 PM
I hate to post this but, If you dumped a quart or two of oil into your exhaust inlet, how long would it take to burn out? What would be your best polluting method?
Anyone tap out their EP2 or other system cat convertors? If so, any Cels?
If you have a Cel, will the car pull timing or what should I expect other than a "no pass" with emissions.?
Anyone tap out their EP2 or other system cat convertors? If so, any Cels?
If you have a Cel, will the car pull timing or what should I expect other than a "no pass" with emissions.?
#90
11-23-2015, 11:04 PM
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,315
Rep Power: 132 Wanna rent my car which would be refundable once "the smoke" clears?
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