Build for autocross and track - the Warthog
#32
01-27-2016, 01:01 PM
Updates have been slow as we procure the many engine parts being refreshed while we have the motor out. As expected, some things you plan for, some things you get to discover 
- lots of o-rings, gaskets, rubber hoses, seals
- water pump
- coolant elbows under the heat exchangers
- coils and plugs
- replacing lots of rusted fasteners
Coolant fittings are being welded Vorshlag. As others have found, the torque solution kit only covers 5 of the 7 fittings, and one of them needs to be shortened - #1 in this photo
The remaining 2 (the small one in the elbow and the long one in the PS pump mount (not pictured) were reused. 6 out of the 7 originals were solid when removed, but one showed some seepage and came out with less force.
The 'guibo' between the trans and front cardan shaft was showing some cracks. Its not available as a single part from porsche, but some searching here found this part which will work.
I knew the front diff was seeping around the axle seals, but also found the steering rack had been leaking, so a good used unit is being sourced, and the whole front sub assembly will have to be dropped
Through all of this, Chris and the crew @ Cobb Plano have been calm and supportive. What looks like an overwhelming amount of work to this DIY'er is taken in stride and goes smoothly.
Soon we will get to the fun parts, the suspension setup, engine tuning, and the racing!
- lots of o-rings, gaskets, rubber hoses, seals
- water pump
- coolant elbows under the heat exchangers
- coils and plugs
- replacing lots of rusted fasteners
Coolant fittings are being welded Vorshlag. As others have found, the torque solution kit only covers 5 of the 7 fittings, and one of them needs to be shortened - #1 in this photo
The remaining 2 (the small one in the elbow and the long one in the PS pump mount (not pictured) were reused. 6 out of the 7 originals were solid when removed, but one showed some seepage and came out with less force.
The 'guibo' between the trans and front cardan shaft was showing some cracks. Its not available as a single part from porsche, but some searching here found this part which will work.
I knew the front diff was seeping around the axle seals, but also found the steering rack had been leaking, so a good used unit is being sourced, and the whole front sub assembly will have to be dropped
Through all of this, Chris and the crew @ Cobb Plano have been calm and supportive. What looks like an overwhelming amount of work to this DIY'er is taken in stride and goes smoothly.
Soon we will get to the fun parts, the suspension setup, engine tuning, and the racing!
#34
02-07-2016, 10:46 AM
Cooling system
Very nice job done by Vorshlag's crew welding and pressure testing the trouble prone cooling fittings. The torque solutions fitting kit did not have the long fitting under the PS pump, or the small one on the 90 degree casting, so we had to re-use the originals. I had one of the seven fittings already seeping and somewhat loose, but the rest were still solid on this car with 53k miles and about a year of previous track use.
Back at Cobb Tuning Plano
The motor is getting dressed again to prepare for reinstallation. New 3bar map sensor, ID1000 injectors, coils, plugs, coolant elbows under the heat exchangers (we just used new factory ones), and dozens of o-rings, hoses, and gaskets!
Odd thing found with the coils, based on this cars VIN, the PET, they have updated parts for 5 of the coils, but the passenger side front is still an original PN, because the new part does not clear the turbo actuator housing. Also the bolts for the new coils are completely differen (ext. torx). OCD owners beware!
Diff rebuild
Matt @ Guard set us up with a ramp and clutch package that should put more power down, without inducing too much understeer in the slow corners. When Cobb removed the old clutches, they felt extremely smooth and slick, with very little preload on them. The Guard clutches and spring washers will increase preload, and be much more durable. Keeping the OEM housing will help the build budget out nicely.
Very nice job done by Vorshlag's crew welding and pressure testing the trouble prone cooling fittings. The torque solutions fitting kit did not have the long fitting under the PS pump, or the small one on the 90 degree casting, so we had to re-use the originals. I had one of the seven fittings already seeping and somewhat loose, but the rest were still solid on this car with 53k miles and about a year of previous track use.
Back at Cobb Tuning Plano
The motor is getting dressed again to prepare for reinstallation. New 3bar map sensor, ID1000 injectors, coils, plugs, coolant elbows under the heat exchangers (we just used new factory ones), and dozens of o-rings, hoses, and gaskets!
Odd thing found with the coils, based on this cars VIN, the PET, they have updated parts for 5 of the coils, but the passenger side front is still an original PN, because the new part does not clear the turbo actuator housing. Also the bolts for the new coils are completely differen (ext. torx). OCD owners beware!
Diff rebuild
Matt @ Guard set us up with a ramp and clutch package that should put more power down, without inducing too much understeer in the slow corners. When Cobb removed the old clutches, they felt extremely smooth and slick, with very little preload on them. The Guard clutches and spring washers will increase preload, and be much more durable. Keeping the OEM housing will help the build budget out nicely.
Last edited by Webspoke; 02-07-2016 at 03:06 PM.
#37
02-13-2016, 04:48 PM
This is going to be a great looking set up congrats....I have a question...this looks like a a true xpipe design exaust...is there a diffrence against a exaust that still uses x design but has tubing kissing each other where there not as much x going threw pipes but rather has the tubing barly connected together to form a small x pipe design....great job on this set up...exited on what outcomes are t follow...
#38
02-15-2016, 08:25 AM
The high flow cats (200cpi) are up by the turbos like most exhausts. The grey cans after it are titanium resonators to help tone down the sound a bit more. I have to meet a 100dB @ 50ft sound limit so I hope this will work. No way a catless/ or mufferless setup would make it. You can see it better in this picture.
#39
02-24-2016, 01:42 PM
Last week saw a ton of progress!
Engine and trans are installed, front differential seals have been replaced and all fluids freshened. We got to start and listen to the Kline exhaust for the first time, and were surprised at how smooth and refined it was. I will hold judgement until we get the car rolling on the road and dyno, but it is not at all rowdy.
As for getting the car on the ground, we found some things with the first mockup of the suspension. This moton configuration has very little droop, so at what we expect for ride height, we are only using up 1.5" of 5-5.5" of available travel.
This meant my initial spring lengths chosen were 1-2" too short, and we did not have enough adjustment range to keep the tires off the fenders.
Some 2.25x5x750 front springs were found in my old stock, and 60mm 928 rears/w helpers will be used until new 2.25x7x1100 rears get delivered. The end result will sit something like this, but with more camber to help the tires tuck:
We also identified some places for improving the GT2 rear swaybar operation and geometry. Its feeling a little bound up right now, and the endlink angles for the softest setting is poor, so we are working on a solution for this.
Once these and a few other details are buttoned up, and the car will be sent to Vorshlag for camber plate design and installation.
We got a new neighbor @Cobb this weekend - 800mi fresh GT4 in for a LWFW, IPD plenum, and full exhaust - beautiful in that color.
Engine and trans are installed, front differential seals have been replaced and all fluids freshened. We got to start and listen to the Kline exhaust for the first time, and were surprised at how smooth and refined it was. I will hold judgement until we get the car rolling on the road and dyno, but it is not at all rowdy.
As for getting the car on the ground, we found some things with the first mockup of the suspension. This moton configuration has very little droop, so at what we expect for ride height, we are only using up 1.5" of 5-5.5" of available travel.
This meant my initial spring lengths chosen were 1-2" too short, and we did not have enough adjustment range to keep the tires off the fenders.
Some 2.25x5x750 front springs were found in my old stock, and 60mm 928 rears/w helpers will be used until new 2.25x7x1100 rears get delivered. The end result will sit something like this, but with more camber to help the tires tuck:
We also identified some places for improving the GT2 rear swaybar operation and geometry. Its feeling a little bound up right now, and the endlink angles for the softest setting is poor, so we are working on a solution for this.
Once these and a few other details are buttoned up, and the car will be sent to Vorshlag for camber plate design and installation.
We got a new neighbor @Cobb this weekend - 800mi fresh GT4 in for a LWFW, IPD plenum, and full exhaust - beautiful in that color.
Last edited by Webspoke; 02-24-2016 at 01:45 PM.
#40
02-26-2016, 07:19 PM
Interesting project. What is the width and offset of your front wheels? Looking at your pictures, the front wheels and tires are sticking outside the fender by a good +1" or so. How are you planning on make the tires tuck under the fender for a more track appropriate ride height? Currently at your front ride height it appears the front tire only has about 1" of room above it before the tire would contact the top of the fender opening. That is severely limited travel. The reason I was asking is that I'm in the process of setting up my car for 275s. I am much lower than you are however at a front ride height of 100mm which puts the front tire inside the fender just above the height of the fender lip. Your car appear to be about 1" higher than mine. I'm running JRZ pros with 2.25" 1400 lb springs in the front and -3.5º of camber with GT3 uprights and RSR LCAs. A 18x9.5" ET45 wheel puts the inside wheel lip about 1.5mm from the spring seat, about as tight as you can get. I'm not sure I could squeeze a 10" rim under the fender without fender extensions as a 10" wheel would necessitate a more aggressive offset closer to -4º or possibly beyond which is not practical. My fenders are tightly rolled. Thanks...
Last edited by pwdrhound; 02-26-2016 at 07:21 PM.
#41
02-26-2016, 09:33 PM
Good eye you have. I am sacrificing some ride height for sure, but those are still mockups before we get strut position optimized. When the camber is optimal, only about 1/2" of tire sticks out, and dynamically, especially on turn in, the clearance actually improves. The car does not rub the fenders during normal braking and turning. The worst case is straight line bumps or heaves.
A 285 tire on a 10" rim will tuck completely, but it does take a short and small diameter spring stack. This picture shows a 10.5 wheel with 285 hoosier tucking under the fender on our cayman with the same setup.
But when we tested 285 vs 295, the 295 setup was faster, so the compromises were accepted.
A 285 tire on a 10" rim will tuck completely, but it does take a short and small diameter spring stack. This picture shows a 10.5 wheel with 285 hoosier tucking under the fender on our cayman with the same setup.
But when we tested 285 vs 295, the 295 setup was faster, so the compromises were accepted.
#42
02-26-2016, 09:46 PM
Good eye you have. I am sacrificing some ride height for sure, but those are still mockups before we get strut position optimized. When the camber is optimal, only about 1/2" of tire sticks out, and dynamically, especially on turn in, the clearance actually improves. The car does not rub the fenders during normal braking and turning. The worst case is straight line bumps or heaves.
A 285 tire on a 10" rim will tuck completely, but it does take a short and small diameter spring stack. This picture shows a 10.5 wheel with 285 hoosier tucking under the fender on our cayman with the same setup.
But when we tested 285 vs 295, the 295 setup was faster, so the compromises were accepted.
A 285 tire on a 10" rim will tuck completely, but it does take a short and small diameter spring stack. This picture shows a 10.5 wheel with 285 hoosier tucking under the fender on our cayman with the same setup.
But when we tested 285 vs 295, the 295 setup was faster, so the compromises were accepted.
#43
02-27-2016, 03:48 AM
The front wheels are the spec I used on the caymans. 18x10.5, offset around 38mm, fine tuned with spacers to about 3mm strut clearance. I will get a picture showing that this weekend.
#44
02-29-2016, 03:04 PM
We were greeted by a beautiful sight at Cobb Plano this weekend, warthog was out front in the sunshine, looking eager to run.
Fired up the Accessport and saw this cool surprise. OTS stage 3 map loaded right now, it will get its first dyno tune later in the week before our first event.
Next was a quick alignment to make sure the 1 mile drive to Vorshlag was safe!
There is still a lot to do to fine tune the suspension setup, but it was a chance to give it a quick detail bath, apply some numbers, then drive it over to the SCCA annual tech session at Vorshlag.
The Aasco flywheel, Sachs 764 pressure plate and Sachs Race sprung disk spec'd by Sam@byDesign works very smoothly with the stock hydrualics. No chatter at all, and easy modulation. The Kline GT2 exhaust now has some nice volume when under load too.
Durametric challenges
We were able to disable the TPMS system pretty easily, but the PASM disable is fighting us. Hope we get it figured out or it will have to be done at the dealer with PIWIS.
Next up
Camber plate fabrication
New rear springs and top mounts
Rear sway bar mount modification
Light weight battery installation
RSS Harness/Roll bar installation
Race seat installation
Race steering wheel installation
Fired up the Accessport and saw this cool surprise. OTS stage 3 map loaded right now, it will get its first dyno tune later in the week before our first event.
Next was a quick alignment to make sure the 1 mile drive to Vorshlag was safe!
There is still a lot to do to fine tune the suspension setup, but it was a chance to give it a quick detail bath, apply some numbers, then drive it over to the SCCA annual tech session at Vorshlag.
The Aasco flywheel, Sachs 764 pressure plate and Sachs Race sprung disk spec'd by Sam@byDesign works very smoothly with the stock hydrualics. No chatter at all, and easy modulation. The Kline GT2 exhaust now has some nice volume when under load too.
Durametric challenges
We were able to disable the TPMS system pretty easily, but the PASM disable is fighting us. Hope we get it figured out or it will have to be done at the dealer with PIWIS.
Next up
Camber plate fabrication
New rear springs and top mounts
Rear sway bar mount modification
Light weight battery installation
RSS Harness/Roll bar installation
Race seat installation
Race steering wheel installation
#45
02-29-2016, 03:29 PM
Looks like it's coming right along. Congrats! What is your final ride height measured off the factory points? The front still looks very high, about an inch or so higher than a typical aggressive track set up. What spring rates did you end up going with? I run 1400/1500# Eibach race springs with JRZ pros and find those rates very good, maybe a touch soft for my weight of 3100lbs. 7Cups run 1484/1484 at a weight just over 2600lbs. What is your projected final ready to run weight?