Exhaust Install Prep
#1
Exhaust Install Prep
Hello everyone,
I'm getting ready to tackle the install of a new Kline exhaust, and was hoping to get some clarification on a few things. I've read through just about every exhaust install thread, and in doing so, have come across some conflicting information. So, I figured I would start a new thread to hopefully gain some clarity for myself as well as anyone else who tackles this in the future.
Sorry for all the questions, and perhaps I'm overthinking some things. Nonetheless, thank you all in advance for sharing your knowledge and feel free to point out or mention anything I might not be thinking of!
Regards,
Kyle
I'm getting ready to tackle the install of a new Kline exhaust, and was hoping to get some clarification on a few things. I've read through just about every exhaust install thread, and in doing so, have come across some conflicting information. So, I figured I would start a new thread to hopefully gain some clarity for myself as well as anyone else who tackles this in the future.
- I have already picked up new gaskets for mounting the exhaust to the turbo and want to also pick up new nuts. I have seen some use copper and others use stainless steel. Is one better than the other?
- I have seen conflicting figures for torquing these nuts to the studs. I've seen 26 and 17 ft. lbs - does anyone know the correct figure?
- Are their torquing specs for the o2 sensors?
- Being that the intercoolers will be removed, are their torque specs for the hose clamps or is there a general rule that most follow?
Sorry for all the questions, and perhaps I'm overthinking some things. Nonetheless, thank you all in advance for sharing your knowledge and feel free to point out or mention anything I might not be thinking of!
Regards,
Kyle
#2
I used steel nuts but I have heard that copper (copper coated steel) is also good but some say they deform easy. I would also pick up some studs incase you break one or have to cut one. I believe I torqued to 20-25lbs with lots of antiseize. Hoses just make as tight as you can without breaking the clamp. Same with the o2 just make it tight with some antiseize on the threads.You should have lots of fun like everyone else that tackled that project.
Cheers
Cheers
#3
start your prep NOW - there is no need to REMOVE The intercoolers unless you're upgrading them
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...nightmare.html
Expect it to NOT go smoothly, don't be afraid of it, it's just nuts and bolts work but expect to break studs or rounds nuts off and anticipate having to deal with that.
-Zach
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...nightmare.html
Expect it to NOT go smoothly, don't be afraid of it, it's just nuts and bolts work but expect to break studs or rounds nuts off and anticipate having to deal with that.
-Zach
#4
Thank you both for your input. Zach, your thread is the one that made me realize I need to prepare myself with an arsenal of supplies and assure I'm in a sound state of mind! I've picked up some Kroil and plan to soak for the 2 days leading up to next weekend. My car is an '08 with a little over 14k miles - based on the underside, it looks to have avoided adverse weather throughout it's life, but I'm still preparing for the worst!
I'm sure I'll realize this more once the bumper is off, but why is it that some people do and some don't remove the intercoolers? I assumed it was to gain access to the o2 sensors - mainly the wires so you can unclip them to avoid damage. However, I've also seen people remove the Y pipe and airbox to gain access...
As far as the nuts go, can I just pick up some stainless M8 1.25 nuts from Home Depot?
Thanks again,
Kyle
I'm sure I'll realize this more once the bumper is off, but why is it that some people do and some don't remove the intercoolers? I assumed it was to gain access to the o2 sensors - mainly the wires so you can unclip them to avoid damage. However, I've also seen people remove the Y pipe and airbox to gain access...
As far as the nuts go, can I just pick up some stainless M8 1.25 nuts from Home Depot?
Thanks again,
Kyle
#5
If you have a decent auto parts store like napa I would just go there with the sizes. Some of depot's hardware isn't that great. You can also just unplug the o2's from the top and pull the wires down. It's a lot easier than pulling the coolers. The hardest ones are the tops obviously and pulling the coolers and bending the heat shield may help with those.swivel sockets and long extensions can get them off if their not too bad. 14k isn't a lot of miles.
#7
Thank you both for your input. Zach, your thread is the one that made me realize I need to prepare myself with an arsenal of supplies and assure I'm in a sound state of mind! I've picked up some Kroil and plan to soak for the 2 days leading up to next weekend. My car is an '08 with a little over 14k miles - based on the underside, it looks to have avoided adverse weather throughout it's life, but I'm still preparing for the worst!
I'm sure I'll realize this more once the bumper is off, but why is it that some people do and some don't remove the intercoolers? I assumed it was to gain access to the o2 sensors - mainly the wires so you can unclip them to avoid damage. However, I've also seen people remove the Y pipe and airbox to gain access...
As far as the nuts go, can I just pick up some stainless M8 1.25 nuts from Home Depot?
Thanks again,
Kyle
I'm sure I'll realize this more once the bumper is off, but why is it that some people do and some don't remove the intercoolers? I assumed it was to gain access to the o2 sensors - mainly the wires so you can unclip them to avoid damage. However, I've also seen people remove the Y pipe and airbox to gain access...
As far as the nuts go, can I just pick up some stainless M8 1.25 nuts from Home Depot?
Thanks again,
Kyle
You can certainly get some nuts at home depot - If you have a fastenal near you though I would suggest going there and getting some true grade 10 - you can also get flanged variants.
I did not remove the O2 sensors at all, once the bumper is off you'll be able to get at them with a 22mm crows foot and a standard ratchet just by reaching through the exhaust tip area. You CAN remove the intercoolers, but it was not necessary and I didn't see the need in doing so - I've done a BUNCH of exhausts though (not in this car, just in general) so I wasn't nearly as worried about the O2 sensors as others might have been.
Also if you are doing this laying on your back, be sure to have a way to brace your old and new exhaust, I used a height adjustable swivel stool and my jack - or plan on having a second set of hands - the stock exhaust is fairly heavy.
Also, be sure to read the how tos, getting the exhaust straps off was the most frustrating thing to me until I found someone suggest to completely loosen them and then slide them to the OUTSIDE until they come off the hangers.
It really is easy nuts and bolts work - and if your car is that low mileage with nearly no underside wear it might come right off.
good luck.
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#8
Thanks to all of you for your insight. I will be sure to update this thread with how it all goes and will provide any additional pointers that might help others in the future.
Thanks again,
Kyle
Thanks again,
Kyle
#9
About to go ahead and order these, but wanted to make sure these looked like what I need:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/25-M8-1-25-M...0AAMXQgwNSLKH4
M8 1.25 Class 10 flange locking nuts
Thanks again,
Kyle
http://www.ebay.com/itm/25-M8-1-25-M...0AAMXQgwNSLKH4
M8 1.25 Class 10 flange locking nuts
Thanks again,
Kyle
#12
only crows foot you will need is a 7/8 for the o2 sensor. if the 997 setup is anything like the 996tt setup the harness for the o2 senspor is located on the engine shelf close the to hole the i/c hoses come thru from the fender. unplug it and let drop down . remove the sensor once the exhaust is off
#13
only crows foot you will need is a 7/8 for the o2 sensor. if the 997 setup is anything like the 996tt setup the harness for the o2 senspor is located on the engine shelf close the to hole the i/c hoses come thru from the fender. unplug it and let drop down . remove the sensor once the exhaust is off
#14
About to go ahead and order these, but wanted to make sure these looked like what I need:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/25-M8-1-25-M...0AAMXQgwNSLKH4
M8 1.25 Class 10 flange locking nuts
Thanks again,
Kyle
http://www.ebay.com/itm/25-M8-1-25-M...0AAMXQgwNSLKH4
M8 1.25 Class 10 flange locking nuts
Thanks again,
Kyle
#15
not a fan of twisting the o2 sensors but whatever floats your boat. to me its a simple unplug and drop them pout. as the 7/8 on my 996tt its a perfect fit maybe the 997tt is different