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997 Turbo / GT2 2006–2012 Turbo discussion on the 997 model Porsche 911 Twin Turbo.

997 Turbo Values Tanked?

  #46  
Old 08-27-2018, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by wkp42 View Post
You really, really need to understand that a Tiptronic is going to be priced lower, sometimes much lower, than a Turbo with a manual transmission.
 
  #47  
Old 08-27-2018, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by wkp42 View Post
The thing has 80,000 miles and is a tiptronic - what do you expect?
 
  #48  
Old 08-27-2018, 03:46 PM
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How long (years and mileage) are these cars actually reliable for if driven spiritedly regularly? Any logic to what I keep hearing that these cars develop more problems if they sit than if they’re driven regularly? A 10 year old car with only 30,000 miles has obviously had a lot less usage but also a lot less maintenance and repairs of common mileage related problems? A higher mileage car has had a lot more use but also a lot more repairs and maintenance. What’s the point of having one just to drive it 1,500 miles per year. I’ve heard that things start leaking and failing if not driven and oil and coolant constantly pushed around everywhere. Which way of looking at it is more accurate?
 
  #49  
Old 08-28-2018, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by wkp42 View Post
How long (years and mileage) are these cars actually reliable for if driven spiritedly regularly? Any logic to what I keep hearing that these cars develop more problems if they sit than if they’re driven regularly? A 10 year old car with only 30,000 miles has obviously had a lot less usage but also a lot less maintenance and repairs of common mileage related problems? A higher mileage car has had a lot more use but also a lot more repairs and maintenance. What’s the point of having one just to drive it 1,500 miles per year. I’ve heard that things start leaking and failing if not driven and oil and coolant constantly pushed around everywhere. Which way of looking at it is more accurate?

Rubber rots, metal oxidzes and oil and fuel absorb moisture. These are some of the reasons why maintenance items are both mileage and time dependent. My turbo is at 96k miles...I daily drive it and the recent compression test still gave me 192-195psi across the six cylinders. I just spent a nice chunk of change replacing every hard to reach item on the engine and engine bay (rubber hoses, mounts, hard lines, gaskets, pumps, seals, actuators etc) since I was in there for the coolant pipe welding and sharkwerk outlet pipes. Aside from oil changes and plugs/coils I do not expect to need to touch the drive train for some time. The car has also received a suspension refresh and new brakes all around. I drive my car and that is what I am willing to do to keep on driving it. If I wanted an investment vehicle, then yeah...the sub 20k miles garage queen is the way to go. If you intend on driving it...do not be afraid of documented service history high mileage vehicles.
 
  #50  
Old 08-28-2018, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by wkp42 View Post
How long (years and mileage) are these cars actually reliable for if driven spiritedly regularly? Any logic to what I keep hearing that these cars develop more problems if they sit than if they’re driven regularly? A 10 year old car with only 30,000 miles has obviously had a lot less usage but also a lot less maintenance and repairs of common mileage related problems? A higher mileage car has had a lot more use but also a lot more repairs and maintenance. What’s the point of having one just to drive it 1,500 miles per year. I’ve heard that things start leaking and failing if not driven and oil and coolant constantly pushed around everywhere. Which way of looking at it is more accurate?
I think it really depends on how you drive them and for the extended periods of time. I have multiple fun cars and put about 2,000 miles per year on EACH. That is about 8,000 miles p/year combined, which is, plenty of driving in my opinion. I drive them all I would say about once a week. I think the biggest problem you will see is when cars don't get driven over extended periods of time. So you can drive one for 1,000 miles but if you let it sit for 2-3 months at a time...you get what I mean.
I have always favored higher miles car when purchasing because typically things have been sorted out and because you obviously get a better price. Since I don't put a whole lot of miles myself, usually, by the time I sell the car, the mileage has averaged out and is still fairly low.
 
  #51  
Old 08-28-2018, 05:48 PM
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I just bought mine 1 month ago. 2007 997tt 6 spd. It has the Suspension module upgrade, Sachs 2.5 clutch and AWE full exhaust for upgrades and is loaded with Sport Chrono, etc.... I paid 74k with 44,000 miles. Beautiful car, runs like a rabid beast. Black with tan interior.

I am selling my 997.2 Carrera 6 spd for what I bought it for 4 years ago. It has held steady. Dropped a little 2 years ago, but came back up.
 
  #52  
Old 08-29-2018, 09:45 AM
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here is a 6 speed you can LOW BALL.

3hrs since overrev 6.

Buy it...change out rods and pistons and build an animal!



https://bringatrailer.com/listing/20...-911-turbo-18/
  • Location: Raleigh, North Carolina 27606
  • Chassis: WP0AD29957S786415
  • 81,200 Miles
  • Twin-Turbo 3.6L Flat-Six
  • 6-Speed Manual
  • All-Wheel Drive
  • Lapis Blue Metallic
  • Tan Leather Interior
  • Two Previous Owners
  • Sport Chrono
  • Lightweight Flywheel
  • Aftermarket Clutch
  • Service Records from New
  • DME Report
  • Clean Carfax
  • Private Party or Dealer: Dealer
  • Additional Charges From This Dealer: USD $0 Document Fee
 
  #53  
Old 08-29-2018, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by turboslut View Post
here is a 6 speed you can LOW BALL.

3hrs since overrev 6.

Buy it...change out rods and pistons and build an animal!



https://bringatrailer.com/listing/20...-911-turbo-18/
  • Location: Raleigh, North Carolina 27606
  • Chassis: WP0AD29957S786415
  • 81,200 Miles
  • Twin-Turbo 3.6L Flat-Six
  • 6-Speed Manual
  • All-Wheel Drive
  • Lapis Blue Metallic
  • Tan Leather Interior
  • Two Previous Owners
  • Sport Chrono
  • Lightweight Flywheel
  • Aftermarket Clutch
  • Service Records from New
  • DME Report
  • Clean Carfax
  • Private Party or Dealer: Dealer
  • Additional Charges From This Dealer: USD $0 Document Fee
Confused, is it running? The ad sounds like it was running fine.
 
  #54  
Old 08-29-2018, 10:50 AM
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Whew, that's going to have a rough time on BaT. I've never seen so many paranoid DME Chicken Littles in one place. Shame, it's a nice color combo.
 
  #55  
Old 08-29-2018, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Alapor View Post
Confused, is it running? The ad sounds like it was running fine.

The drama with overrev report is that a mis-shift occurred and the engine saw 7.5k plus in RPM and that it may have stretched the rod bolts to the point of IMMINENT failure. People are more willing to ignore the event when a lot of time has passed between the event time and total running hours, but this one is fresh!

Personally, I would buy and swap out rods and pistons as first order of business. Midas will pin the cams while in there.
 

Last edited by turboslut; 08-29-2018 at 12:27 PM.
  #56  
Old 08-29-2018, 11:55 AM
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Buy it, drive it like you stole it till she blows, do a rebuild, and still have a kick *** Turbo.
 
  #57  
Old 08-29-2018, 12:15 PM
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If it blows due to over rev stress on rod and their bolts wouldn’t a blow be catastrophic? High potential of busting a hole in the block from flying pieces of rod and piston? At the very least destroy most of the internal parts while it throws everything around inside the engine until it locks up? This seems to be a little riskier “blow” than melting rings.
 
  #58  
Old 08-29-2018, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by wkp42 View Post
If it blows due to over rev stress on rod and their bolts wouldn’t a blow be catastrophic? High potential of busting a hole in the block from flying pieces of rod and piston? At the very least destroy most of the internal parts while it throws everything around inside the engine until it locks up? This seems to be a little riskier “blow” than melting rings.

Yes. I would buy and tow straight to shop to change the rods and pistons. If it sells for a price that takes that "need" into account.
 
  #59  
Old 08-30-2018, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by turboslut View Post
here is a 6 speed you can LOW BALL.

3hrs since overrev 6.

Buy it...change out rods and pistons and build an animal!



https://bringatrailer.com/listing/20...-911-turbo-18/
  • Location: Raleigh, North Carolina 27606
  • Chassis: WP0AD29957S786415
  • 81,200 Miles
  • Twin-Turbo 3.6L Flat-Six
  • 6-Speed Manual
  • All-Wheel Drive
  • Lapis Blue Metallic
  • Tan Leather Interior
  • Two Previous Owners
  • Sport Chrono
  • Lightweight Flywheel
  • Aftermarket Clutch
  • Service Records from New
  • DME Report
  • Clean Carfax
  • Private Party or Dealer: Dealer
  • Additional Charges From This Dealer: USD $0 Document Fee
Someone got a deal, it went for under $50k. With those range 6s probably being a glitch, I bet that thing will run till 150k+ miles without any more hassle than a "clean" car.
 
  #60  
Old 08-31-2018, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Skwerl View Post
Someone got a deal, it went for under $50k. With those range 6s probably being a glitch, I bet that thing will run till 150k+ miles without any more hassle than a "clean" car.

Why risk it...at $46k...rods and pistons will run less than $10k and you are now BULLETPROOF.

If I had extra cash lying around I would of so jumped all over it.


 

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