997 Turbo Values Tanked?
How long (years and mileage) are these cars actually reliable for if driven spiritedly regularly? Any logic to what I keep hearing that these cars develop more problems if they sit than if they’re driven regularly? A 10 year old car with only 30,000 miles has obviously had a lot less usage but also a lot less maintenance and repairs of common mileage related problems? A higher mileage car has had a lot more use but also a lot more repairs and maintenance. What’s the point of having one just to drive it 1,500 miles per year. I’ve heard that things start leaking and failing if not driven and oil and coolant constantly pushed around everywhere. Which way of looking at it is more accurate?
How long (years and mileage) are these cars actually reliable for if driven spiritedly regularly? Any logic to what I keep hearing that these cars develop more problems if they sit than if they’re driven regularly? A 10 year old car with only 30,000 miles has obviously had a lot less usage but also a lot less maintenance and repairs of common mileage related problems? A higher mileage car has had a lot more use but also a lot more repairs and maintenance. What’s the point of having one just to drive it 1,500 miles per year. I’ve heard that things start leaking and failing if not driven and oil and coolant constantly pushed around everywhere. Which way of looking at it is more accurate?
Rubber rots, metal oxidzes and oil and fuel absorb moisture. These are some of the reasons why maintenance items are both mileage and time dependent. My turbo is at 96k miles...I daily drive it and the recent compression test still gave me 192-195psi across the six cylinders. I just spent a nice chunk of change replacing every hard to reach item on the engine and engine bay (rubber hoses, mounts, hard lines, gaskets, pumps, seals, actuators etc) since I was in there for the coolant pipe welding and sharkwerk outlet pipes. Aside from oil changes and plugs/coils I do not expect to need to touch the drive train for some time. The car has also received a suspension refresh and new brakes all around. I drive my car and that is what I am willing to do to keep on driving it. If I wanted an investment vehicle, then yeah...the sub 20k miles garage queen is the way to go. If you intend on driving it...do not be afraid of documented service history high mileage vehicles.
How long (years and mileage) are these cars actually reliable for if driven spiritedly regularly? Any logic to what I keep hearing that these cars develop more problems if they sit than if they’re driven regularly? A 10 year old car with only 30,000 miles has obviously had a lot less usage but also a lot less maintenance and repairs of common mileage related problems? A higher mileage car has had a lot more use but also a lot more repairs and maintenance. What’s the point of having one just to drive it 1,500 miles per year. I’ve heard that things start leaking and failing if not driven and oil and coolant constantly pushed around everywhere. Which way of looking at it is more accurate?
I have always favored higher miles car when purchasing because typically things have been sorted out and because you obviously get a better price. Since I don't put a whole lot of miles myself, usually, by the time I sell the car, the mileage has averaged out and is still fairly low.
I just bought mine 1 month ago. 2007 997tt 6 spd. It has the Suspension module upgrade, Sachs 2.5 clutch and AWE full exhaust for upgrades and is loaded with Sport Chrono, etc.... I paid 74k with 44,000 miles. Beautiful car, runs like a rabid beast. Black with tan interior.
I am selling my 997.2 Carrera 6 spd for what I bought it for 4 years ago. It has held steady. Dropped a little 2 years ago, but came back up.
I am selling my 997.2 Carrera 6 spd for what I bought it for 4 years ago. It has held steady. Dropped a little 2 years ago, but came back up.
here is a 6 speed you can LOW BALL.
3hrs since overrev 6.
Buy it...change out rods and pistons and build an animal!
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/20...-911-turbo-18/
3hrs since overrev 6.
Buy it...change out rods and pistons and build an animal!
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/20...-911-turbo-18/
- Location: Raleigh, North Carolina 27606
- Chassis: WP0AD29957S786415
- 81,200 Miles
- Twin-Turbo 3.6L Flat-Six
- 6-Speed Manual
- All-Wheel Drive
- Lapis Blue Metallic
- Tan Leather Interior
- Two Previous Owners
- Sport Chrono
- Lightweight Flywheel
- Aftermarket Clutch
- Service Records from New
- DME Report
- Clean Carfax
- Private Party or Dealer: Dealer
- Additional Charges From This Dealer: USD $0 Document Fee
here is a 6 speed you can LOW BALL.
3hrs since overrev 6.
Buy it...change out rods and pistons and build an animal!
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/20...-911-turbo-18/
3hrs since overrev 6.
Buy it...change out rods and pistons and build an animal!
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/20...-911-turbo-18/
- Location: Raleigh, North Carolina 27606
- Chassis: WP0AD29957S786415
- 81,200 Miles
- Twin-Turbo 3.6L Flat-Six
- 6-Speed Manual
- All-Wheel Drive
- Lapis Blue Metallic
- Tan Leather Interior
- Two Previous Owners
- Sport Chrono
- Lightweight Flywheel
- Aftermarket Clutch
- Service Records from New
- DME Report
- Clean Carfax
- Private Party or Dealer: Dealer
- Additional Charges From This Dealer: USD $0 Document Fee
The drama with overrev report is that a mis-shift occurred and the engine saw 7.5k plus in RPM and that it may have stretched the rod bolts to the point of IMMINENT failure. People are more willing to ignore the event when a lot of time has passed between the event time and total running hours, but this one is fresh!
Personally, I would buy and swap out rods and pistons as first order of business. Midas will pin the cams while in there.
Last edited by turboslut; Aug 29, 2018 at 11:27 AM.
If it blows due to over rev stress on rod and their bolts wouldn’t a blow be catastrophic? High potential of busting a hole in the block from flying pieces of rod and piston? At the very least destroy most of the internal parts while it throws everything around inside the engine until it locks up? This seems to be a little riskier “blow” than melting rings.
If it blows due to over rev stress on rod and their bolts wouldn’t a blow be catastrophic? High potential of busting a hole in the block from flying pieces of rod and piston? At the very least destroy most of the internal parts while it throws everything around inside the engine until it locks up? This seems to be a little riskier “blow” than melting rings.
Yes. I would buy and tow straight to shop to change the rods and pistons. If it sells for a price that takes that "need" into account.
here is a 6 speed you can LOW BALL.
3hrs since overrev 6.
Buy it...change out rods and pistons and build an animal!
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/20...-911-turbo-18/
3hrs since overrev 6.
Buy it...change out rods and pistons and build an animal!
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/20...-911-turbo-18/
- Location: Raleigh, North Carolina 27606
- Chassis: WP0AD29957S786415
- 81,200 Miles
- Twin-Turbo 3.6L Flat-Six
- 6-Speed Manual
- All-Wheel Drive
- Lapis Blue Metallic
- Tan Leather Interior
- Two Previous Owners
- Sport Chrono
- Lightweight Flywheel
- Aftermarket Clutch
- Service Records from New
- DME Report
- Clean Carfax
- Private Party or Dealer: Dealer
- Additional Charges From This Dealer: USD $0 Document Fee
Why risk it...at $46k...rods and pistons will run less than $10k and you are now BULLETPROOF.
If I had extra cash lying around I would of so jumped all over it.



