how to minimize RS29 pads noise?
how to minimize RS29 pads noise?
OK,
I tried to do DE yesterday with stock pads and had brakes fading for several times with stock pads. As I am quite lazy by nature
I do not really want to swap pads in the paddock, if possible, but to tolerate 2 hour drive back home in very bad traffic with RS29 pads is too much for my nerves.
What do people do to those pads to make them settle with minimum noise?
I already tried to use sandpaper to smooth edges at 45 degrees, tried to bed them in as instructions say - 0 effect, even after whole day at DE or auto-x they still do scream like crazy at each braking in traffic. My rotors are pretty well worn now, I will put new ones next season but for rest of this season i do not want to do that...
Is there anything else at all what can be done or only way is to get hands dirty and swap pads at the track after end of the running sessions? I never tried to put damping inserts with rs29 pads - will they help at all?
Also, do those pads squeal more with drilled or with slotted rotors?
I tried to do DE yesterday with stock pads and had brakes fading for several times with stock pads. As I am quite lazy by nature
I do not really want to swap pads in the paddock, if possible, but to tolerate 2 hour drive back home in very bad traffic with RS29 pads is too much for my nerves. What do people do to those pads to make them settle with minimum noise?
I already tried to use sandpaper to smooth edges at 45 degrees, tried to bed them in as instructions say - 0 effect, even after whole day at DE or auto-x they still do scream like crazy at each braking in traffic. My rotors are pretty well worn now, I will put new ones next season but for rest of this season i do not want to do that...
Is there anything else at all what can be done or only way is to get hands dirty and swap pads at the track after end of the running sessions? I never tried to put damping inserts with rs29 pads - will they help at all?
Also, do those pads squeal more with drilled or with slotted rotors?
Tried everything a year or so ago...nothing works. It's the nature of the pad compound.
Most everyone is running them I am with at the track and they squeal with both drilled and slotted rotors, anti squeal shims, beveled edges ect, they just squeal. Performanc Friction pads squeal too as all true race pads.
I no longer bevel the edges and do not use the anti squeal shims. I swap my tires and pads in my garage before my event and I drive these pads to and from the track, about a 2 hr drive at most. They just squeal.
Most everyone is running them I am with at the track and they squeal with both drilled and slotted rotors, anti squeal shims, beveled edges ect, they just squeal. Performanc Friction pads squeal too as all true race pads.
I no longer bevel the edges and do not use the anti squeal shims. I swap my tires and pads in my garage before my event and I drive these pads to and from the track, about a 2 hr drive at most. They just squeal.
OK,
I tried to do DE yesterday with stock pads and had brakes fading for several times with stock pads. As I am quite lazy by nature
I do not really want to swap pads in the paddock, if possible, but to tolerate 2 hour drive back home in very bad traffic with RS29 pads is too much for my nerves.
What do people do to those pads to make them settle with minimum noise?
I already tried to use sandpaper to smooth edges at 45 degrees, tried to bed them in as instructions say - 0 effect, even after whole day at DE or auto-x they still do scream like crazy at each braking in traffic. My rotors are pretty well worn now, I will put new ones next season but for rest of this season i do not want to do that...
Is there anything else at all what can be done or only way is to get hands dirty and swap pads at the track after end of the running sessions? I never tried to put damping inserts with rs29 pads - will they help at all?
Also, do those pads squeal more with drilled or with slotted rotors?
I tried to do DE yesterday with stock pads and had brakes fading for several times with stock pads. As I am quite lazy by nature
I do not really want to swap pads in the paddock, if possible, but to tolerate 2 hour drive back home in very bad traffic with RS29 pads is too much for my nerves. What do people do to those pads to make them settle with minimum noise?
I already tried to use sandpaper to smooth edges at 45 degrees, tried to bed them in as instructions say - 0 effect, even after whole day at DE or auto-x they still do scream like crazy at each braking in traffic. My rotors are pretty well worn now, I will put new ones next season but for rest of this season i do not want to do that...
Is there anything else at all what can be done or only way is to get hands dirty and swap pads at the track after end of the running sessions? I never tried to put damping inserts with rs29 pads - will they help at all?
Also, do those pads squeal more with drilled or with slotted rotors?
mdrums/NorthVan,
I want to get Pagid yellow (RS29) pads for my 997.2 C2S. My plan is to swap the street pads for the pagids myself before going to the track for those special weekends (5-6-8 times a year).
I read quite a few DIY's and I am generally quite handy but was wondering:
(a) is this something doable or just a stupid amount of work? I heard C2S pads were easier to swap, is that right? easier than what?
(b) what should I do with dampers? just get a second set to put on the track pads or keep swapping them with the pads? Or not worry about dampers at all and just put the plain pads in since this is a track application? Looking at the front dampers, it looks like they have the piston stuck on them, what do you do with that?
(c) are the pad sensors that fragile - from the DIY I have read, they look easy to break? Did you guys just short the wires?
You guys seem to be doing exactly what I intend on doing. Any last minute advice?
Thanks,
T.
I want to get Pagid yellow (RS29) pads for my 997.2 C2S. My plan is to swap the street pads for the pagids myself before going to the track for those special weekends (5-6-8 times a year).
I read quite a few DIY's and I am generally quite handy but was wondering:
(a) is this something doable or just a stupid amount of work? I heard C2S pads were easier to swap, is that right? easier than what?
(b) what should I do with dampers? just get a second set to put on the track pads or keep swapping them with the pads? Or not worry about dampers at all and just put the plain pads in since this is a track application? Looking at the front dampers, it looks like they have the piston stuck on them, what do you do with that?
(c) are the pad sensors that fragile - from the DIY I have read, they look easy to break? Did you guys just short the wires?
You guys seem to be doing exactly what I intend on doing. Any last minute advice?
Thanks,
T.
mdrums/NorthVan,
I want to get Pagid yellow (RS29) pads for my 997.2 C2S. My plan is to swap the street pads for the pagids myself before going to the track for those special weekends (5-6-8 times a year).
I read quite a few DIY's and I am generally quite handy but was wondering:
(a) is this something doable or just a stupid amount of work? I heard C2S pads were easier to swap, is that right? easier than what?
(b) what should I do with dampers? just get a second set to put on the track pads or keep swapping them with the pads? Or not worry about dampers at all and just put the plain pads in since this is a track application? Looking at the front dampers, it looks like they have the piston stuck on them, what do you do with that?
(c) are the pad sensors that fragile - from the DIY I have read, they look easy to break? Did you guys just short the wires?
You guys seem to be doing exactly what I intend on doing. Any last minute advice?
Thanks,
T.
I want to get Pagid yellow (RS29) pads for my 997.2 C2S. My plan is to swap the street pads for the pagids myself before going to the track for those special weekends (5-6-8 times a year).
I read quite a few DIY's and I am generally quite handy but was wondering:
(a) is this something doable or just a stupid amount of work? I heard C2S pads were easier to swap, is that right? easier than what?
(b) what should I do with dampers? just get a second set to put on the track pads or keep swapping them with the pads? Or not worry about dampers at all and just put the plain pads in since this is a track application? Looking at the front dampers, it looks like they have the piston stuck on them, what do you do with that?
(c) are the pad sensors that fragile - from the DIY I have read, they look easy to break? Did you guys just short the wires?
You guys seem to be doing exactly what I intend on doing. Any last minute advice?
Thanks,
T.
Call me and I will talk you through it or better yet we can SKYPE and you can watch me tak mine off this Thursday. and put the stock pads back in.
You will need
Wrench w/ 19mm socket to remove wheels
Jack and stand
needle nose pliers
bath or hand towel
channel lock liers
hammer and a long hole punch pin
sand paper
PM me you number or we can skype and you can watchme do it.
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I use a large needle nose pliers that have a 90 degree bend and use it to remove the holding pin, and push the pistons back to swap pads. As Mike says, it is so easy to do, takes about 20 minutes longer at most to swap pads.
Just adding to the thread that I have used them on my 997.1 as well and they squeal...and I mean amazingly loud where you scare the drivers around you coming to a stop 
I just swap them the night before going to the track with the wheels. As others have said, its really quick and easy especially if you are already changing wheels. The pads are a huge improvement over stock and well worth the effort.

I just swap them the night before going to the track with the wheels. As others have said, its really quick and easy especially if you are already changing wheels. The pads are a huge improvement over stock and well worth the effort.
too bad i did not know you were there.
Call me and I will talk you through it or better yet we can SKYPE and you can watch me tak mine off this Thursday. and put the stock pads back in.
You will need
Wrench w/ 19mm socket to remove wheels
Jack and stand
needle nose pliers
bath or hand towel
channel lock liers
hammer and a long hole punch pin
sand paper
PM me you number or we can skype and you can watchme do it.
You will need
Wrench w/ 19mm socket to remove wheels
Jack and stand
needle nose pliers
bath or hand towel
channel lock liers
hammer and a long hole punch pin
sand paper
PM me you number or we can skype and you can watchme do it.
Front and rear both squeal. Might as well save yourself time and do them all while you have your car in your garage on a jack.
yep, i was there, was working with Damon Josz, hopefully will get signed off on next event if I will be able to polish corner 3, he still thinks I throw car into turn way too aggressively there and i still need to work on overall smoothness. my car was silver 997 C2, #333.
too bad i did not know you were there.
too bad i did not know you were there.
it was my 2nd event there and 3rd DE day. everything is in the beginning so far... next season hopefully will be more fun, for this one my goals are quite simple - just to keep polishing pure basics.
I'm thinking about going next month, on the 3rd I think. Trying to get a few more days in before the weather turns bad, it's a long winter! And we're all "green as grass"! The challenge of getting better is what makes it fun.



