Retro Stone Guards
Retro Stone Guards
After 6+ years my stone guards were looking pretty bad. Lots of rock marks and such.
I put on a set of the matte finish guards this morning. Took little over an hour including removal. I'm not 100% sold on the look but they do look a lot better than the beat up old ones.
Here's a quick photo of what they look like.
I put on a set of the matte finish guards this morning. Took little over an hour including removal. I'm not 100% sold on the look but they do look a lot better than the beat up old ones.
Here's a quick photo of what they look like.
I'm torn with the same issue, one minute I think it looks great, then I think it might be too much. In your case I think it looks great, maybe its because its a dark colour and it doesn't stand out so much. Again, I like it.
Looks good! another plus is you can get the black guards for a lot less than the clear ones! I had one that was damaged ordered a set of the black ones changed the damaged one first, (see if I liked it) Then proceeded to the other side.
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Bought them from Suncoast Porsche. About 60 bucks for the pair.
Here's the link . . . . http://www.suncoastparts.com/product...S_Exteriortrim
Here's the link . . . . http://www.suncoastparts.com/product...S_Exteriortrim
Couple of ways:
1. If your existing clear guards have been on for a few years they will leave an 'outline' when you remove them. It's simply that the paint under them is in 'pristine' condition so you'll be able to 'see' the spot where they were.
2. You can simply put a couple of pieces of 'painter's tape' (ie. masking) to act as a guide on the bottom and side edges.
You'll need a heat gun or hair dryer to both remove the old guards and to heat the new so they conform to the radius on the bottom edge. I mixed a solution of distilled water (90%), isopropyl alcohol (10%) and baby shampoo (few drops) as my 'slip solution' in pump sprayer. A small rubber squeegee, a lint free towel and you're ready to go. You'll also need some adhesive remover to clean up the area from the old guards. I used a 3M product but there are many on the market. In fact I think straight Isopropyl will work fine.
On a scale of 1 to 10 where is 10 is the hardest I'd say it's a 2/3.
GL
1. If your existing clear guards have been on for a few years they will leave an 'outline' when you remove them. It's simply that the paint under them is in 'pristine' condition so you'll be able to 'see' the spot where they were.
2. You can simply put a couple of pieces of 'painter's tape' (ie. masking) to act as a guide on the bottom and side edges.
You'll need a heat gun or hair dryer to both remove the old guards and to heat the new so they conform to the radius on the bottom edge. I mixed a solution of distilled water (90%), isopropyl alcohol (10%) and baby shampoo (few drops) as my 'slip solution' in pump sprayer. A small rubber squeegee, a lint free towel and you're ready to go. You'll also need some adhesive remover to clean up the area from the old guards. I used a 3M product but there are many on the market. In fact I think straight Isopropyl will work fine.
On a scale of 1 to 10 where is 10 is the hardest I'd say it's a 2/3.
GL
I'll shoot a couple of shots later today.
Best way would be to apply blue painters tape to the edges of the original before removing them. Then you've got a perfect guide when the new ones go on.
I bought a set of black and have yet to install them, I also have dry CF DiNOC 3M one which is waiting to be installed as well. I think I'll try the CF ones first to see how I like them, if I don't I'll go with black b/c I like the black on black



