Hi,

as it was a wonderful mild day today i decided to replace my stock engine mounts to WEVO units i had in the box for a while now.
Whole operation took hardly hour and a half, may be less, so what is amazing about it - i expected to get some increase on vibration level in the car afterwards BUT instead overall amount of vibrations from motor went almost to nothing and my pretty rough idle now is silky smooth. go figure.
may be old mounts at 56K miles were shot, or engine got re-aligned better now. overall i am quite satisfied with the result.

Regards, Paul

 

Good to know. I always thought my engine mounts could be worn because when I go over bumps the rear sounds much louder than the front. It like a slamming sound almost in the rear. I know there is more weight an all, but just thought worn engine mounts could contribute to the noise. I also have vibration so maybe I will try the WEVO's.

Thanks for the post.

 

Hi Paul,

So this sounds like a DIY? How hard was it? My '06 seems to be getting a bit rough and I wonder of it's not the same thing.

Best,

matt

 

Same symptoms too, on my C4S 2006. Please, let us know how much involved this change is. Also, what was the cost of the new engine mounts?

Thanks in advance.
Yves

 

Can you post some pics?

Thanks!

 

Matt, job is very easy. Much easier than to swap mufflers.
You need 18mm deep socket and 13mm socket. Torque on 18mm nut is 60ftlb, on 2 upper bolts - 18ftlb.
Remove air box.
So all you do then - jack up motor at solid metal piece that is right behind oil pan lifting it up for for 2-3 inches, just a bit. Then with 10" extender you undo lower nut on stock mount, as nut gets lower on a bolt jack up engine more jently until you see a gap appearing between nut and support frame. proper amount of jacking up is easy to establish looking at your exhaust tips - they should be leveled equally like if mount was in place.
Then you just take old mount out after removing both upper bolts and put in new one.
I had a link somewhere for this job, will search for it later but when you remove air box you will see right away all what should be done.

 

ok, here is that link, did not take long to find.
http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...nt-review.html

only trick not told there - when you put back wevo mounts, for each, put back 18mm nut leaving about of 1-2 mm gap to the metal bar. also, on my mounts it was not '4-5 treads' below nut, it was a good inch or so of mount`s bolt there.
so, after you got nut almost all the way up - remove jack letting support beam to lay on the nut and only after that start tightening it up. if you will torque it while engine is lifted up on jack it will be shifted away from its normal position - it is not good. you will see when engine if lifted old marks from the nut on the beam will not match new position of the nut. but when engine is lowered it all will align back.

after you torqued one side to 60ft/lb jack up engine again and replace other side in same way.

when you take off airbox - release it from throttle body so you could inspect if inside of throttle body is perfectly clean with no trace of black oily residue. if itis oily - your AOS is due.

to unclip MAF connector you need to pull its lever up from the downside - you can take out airbox half way out and then disconnect MAF cable - it is long enough.

ot sure what else to say, it is all quite straight forward.

 

mounts are here:
http://wevo.com/Products/ChassisProd...gineMounts.htm

some people prefer OEM GT3 RS mounts. i`ve heard nothing but good about WEVO so i got them.

 

I just put on the solid engine mounts, and I don't feel anymore vibrations then I use to.

 

It also is fair to add that most common rough idle reason are bad coils. But in my case coils were already replaced during last season maintenance.

 

I also found this one: https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...my-engine.html